Curing cancer, 76 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[tweek99]

oh man... how i wish to have the budget to resto it to such... awesome job. love your post.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

[tweek99]

Slowly chipping away at a few things. Put new seals in transmission and transfer case.
While I was at it I noticed copious amounts of oil inside my bellhousing and all over the clutch. I had noticed the clutch slipping under heavy pulling and thought it was from being glazed from sitting too much. I decided to replace the rear main seal, the cam cover plug as well as the oil galley plug. I think the cam cover plug was in fact the leaker.

All back together now and sitting in the chassis. I will have as much as possible done before the body goes back on after paint.

I took the liberty of removing the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. When I got them off I noticed a horrific crack in the base of the intake and also a big crack directly below in the exhaust manifold, along with one other. I had someone weld the aluminum for me and I brazed the exhaust.

 

[tweek99]

Was in the process of putting on the intake and exhaust manifold when I noticed a pretty big gap on the two inner exhaust flanges when I placed it on the block and began to tighten the bolts. I am now in the process of using precision tools to make them flush again. I am certain that the burned out gasket and exhaust leaks contributed in compounding the problem because there is clear pitting on the surface of the problem flanges.

 

[tweek99]

How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? I'm not sure, but I do know it took three test fittings and 2.5 hours to make my manifolds seal tight.

 

[tweek99]

Next step is to clean up and paint the air cleaner assembly. I will also be cleaning the carb. Hope I don't louse it up too badly.

 

[tweek99]

Now it's time to start the serious body work. Chassis is rolling and can be pushed out of the way.

 

[tweek99]

Getting exciting. Ready for a wipe down then some etch primer. After primer I'll give it a scuff and shoot some black raptor bed liner. I am going to shoot tintable bed liner on the inside when the rest of the body is ready.

I'm really hoping for a freeze, all the dog-peter gnats and mosquitoes are hell on primer and paint.

 

[Varty Yo]

great work!!

 

[tweek99]

Got the bed liner on the underside finished up a few weeks ago. I used keystone etch primer underneath and raptor was the bed liner.

 

[tweek99]

I am now having a block party. Trying to get some of the lows out. I don't see any waves just some very long low spots I couldn't notice without the long board (30"). I am guessing maybe these weren't all that flat when they were new, at least mine wasn't all that straight.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

I know it has been a day or two since you bent your upper fenders in the rear. Can you tell me how you did it? What radius was the bend? I do not have a metal brake, So I will have to fab something up to bend my fender.

Thanks.

 

[tweek99]

My rear quarters are aftermarket. If you mean the top where the hardtop rests on, I just bent small patches in my vice with a hammer. To make the radius I just beat on it a little at a time until it was close, then I cut the rotten part out and welded in the patch. To make it smooth and blend just grind the highs down and smear filler in the lows. I made patches for my ambulance doors the same way. It's economical but time consuming. Hope this helps. Let me know if I answered your question.

I know it has been a day or two since you bent your upper fenders in the rear. Can you tell me how you did it? What radius was the bend? I do not have a metal brake, So I will have to fab something up to bend my fender.

Thanks.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.

The top of the rear fender inside the tub, where it bends back down towards the floor at the front of the fender.

My real steel fender tops are flat and need to be bent with radius bend.

I was wondering what your trick was to get that radius bend?

 

[tweek99]

Oh, I got ya. The inner wheel well top I got was from CCOT and I believe they were already bent pretty closely. If I was going to bend it myself without a break I would get a piece of PVC close to the same radius and clamp it or screw it where I needed to bend it, then push. Using g either my hands or a press. It shouldn't be too stiff.

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.

The top of the rear fender inside the tub, where it bends back down towards the floor at the front of the fender.

My real steel fender tops are flat and need to be bent with radius bend.

I was wondering what your trick was to get that radius bend?

 

[tweek99]

Got a little bit done now that the holiday season is finally over with. Welded the dash and dash pad support back in place. I decided to blend the dash into the pillar instead of the visible welded seam that was there before. I figure I just as well make things look how I want if I am already doing a bunch of work.

I am beginning to rethink using a tintable bed liner for the floor on the inside. I painted a go-kart red and coverage is just not as good as other colors. I don't want my bed liner and regular paint to be different shades. May just have to paint over the liner instead of tinting it. Any opinions?

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

NICE!!

BRAVO!!

 

[luvdamud]

I am beginning to rethink using a tintable bed liner for the floor on the inside. I painted a go-kart red and coverage is just not as good as other colors. I don't want my bed liner and regular paint to be different shades. May just have to paint over the liner instead of tinting it. Any opinions?

For tint-able bed liner check out this thread for Line-X: Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore

I'm sure @roma042987 would share the details of this build. Looks to me like he got the Line-X to match the paint beautifully.

 

[tweek99]

It has been decided

 

[tweek99]

It has been decided

I will just paint the inside. The supplier said upol doesn't recommend painting over raptor bed liner and the few guys I know who have tried to tint it red were not all that happy with it.

Now I am just doing some more thorough body work so it doesn't look like the inside of a dumpster. I really hate how the two piece wheel wells look so I am rounding the corners. I also glazed the spot welds and deep grinding marks. Hopefully with basketball season over with I can actually get some work done.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Line-x is absolutely brute strength quality bed liner. I had my underside done to the engine side of the firewall. I payed $500. I did all the prep work. Perhaps they can shoot you a sample. If it's a satisfactory match and you give the go-ahead your rigs next owner will locked in to red as the color. I also like the fact I can hose my 40 out or let it sit in the rain and no worry about rust.

In my opinion mats over paint trap moisture.

Edit: Oops I see you already decided