Builds Cummins R2.8 in 2nd gen 4Runner (1 Viewer)

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I suppose it is somewhat reassuring that even the pros have life interfere in their personal projects.
 
Hello any updates? Did you have to swap to a solid front axle to fit the engine? My engine is out and planning to use stock Rebuilt R150.
 
It's hilarious that Cummins has let this project languish. You'd think they make every effort to make these conversions seem as easy as possible.

It’s been difficult to get information. Seems like they would have several builds going - maybe partnering with SEMA companies to create kits for the swaps? Is there a Cummins Repower team member out there that can give me more info on installing R2.8 into 1990 4RUNNER 2nd gen? this is going to be overland rig. I really don’t want to swap out IFS for solid.
 
I'm an engineer at Cummins on the Repower Program, and started my own personal Cummins R2.8 swap last night

It's hilarious that Cummins has let this project languish. You'd think they make every effort to make these conversions seem as easy as possible.

Although someone affiliated with Cummins should have many more resources than the average person, I totally get having personal projects sidetracked by other life events.

As an aside, I met up with Fred Williams this past week and got to look over his TubeSock Jeep with the R2.8. He says it really performs well - both on the highway as well as the trail. Looking it over, it would definitely fit well in a Toyota.
 
It's hilarious that Cummins has let this project languish. You'd think they make every effort to make these conversions seem as easy as possible.

Sorry, this isn't an official Cummins build, it's my personal project that I am working on in the garage at my house. While I may have more "resources" I do also have a life outside Cummins, trying to enjoy my summer and planning my wedding in two months.

That being said, I did get the transmission removed and am working on combining the AX15 with the R150 Tailshaft housing in order to use the stock transfer case.

We also did the first fit of the engine into the engine bay last night.
First Engine Fit.jpg


It will be a SUPER tight fit, but the goal is still to retain the IFS. The current plan based on the initial fit check is to pull the body off tonight/this weekend. That way I can a.) get everything cleaned up since its covered in 20 year old oil and power steering fluid (which at least has prevented rust :cheers:) and b.) get the power train mounted to the frame along with IFS and steering components, then worry about "trimming" the body after. Expecting to need a 2" body lift, a front diff drop, and a modified oil pan. I'm starting with a different, aluminum oil pan (Cummins part number 5318048) that can be ordered through a distributor. This hasn't been checked fully by Cummins yet, but is in process.

One plus is the engine mounts I purchased from Axis look like they are pretty close to bolting directly to my stock frame side mounts in their stock location.

My goal is to have my build complete for Cummins Cruise 2018 (2 weeks after my wedding)
We just created the official facebook event if anyone is interested. More details should be posted in the next couple of weeks
https://www.facebook.com/events/2071379306457546/
 
Sorry, this isn't an official Cummins build, it's my personal project that I am working on in the garage at my house. While I may have more "resources" I do also have a life outside Cummins, trying to enjoy my summer and planning my wedding in two months.

It's like they say - the cobbler's children have no shoes. Sometimes the hardest things to get done in your personal life are those you do for a profession.

Or my terrible acting at: Cummins Repower Garage

I started watching the series the other evening. You guys are better than the pair that replaced Ian Johnson over at Xtreme Off-Road. :)
 
Slowly making progress. Stripped off all the old suspension, cleaned and painted the frame, replaced all the bushings, and re-installed suspension components. New control arms (coming soon), coil springs, and a new third member to change RAR from 4.56 to 4.10

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I also got my two transmissions combined into 1. I'm using most of the new AX15 so that I can use the Axis R2.8 to AX15 adapter, but retaining the Toyota tailshaft and housing to mate up with my stock transfer case. The Toyota 5th gear went with the tailshaft, so my gear ratios are as follows:
1st - 3.83
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.44
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.84

That, combined with my new RAR of 4.10 and 33" tires makes my 70 mph highway cruise at 2450 rpm rather than 2730. Still not ideal for fuel economy but significantly better.
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Neat build. You could get 3.73 in 4runner axles, you'd have to go with a solid front though, a built trail gear or ruffstuff up front would be slick and match the widths you want. Or a 60 series shortened, if you could find one cheap you cut cut one side and have moser or dutchmen shorten and respline for 50-100 bones. Overkill for a DD but you'd get the ratio you wanted and a beefier front end.
 
Neat build. You could get 3.73 in 4runner axles, you'd have to go with a solid front though, a built trail gear or ruffstuff up front would be slick and match the widths you want. Or a 60 series shortened, if you could find one cheap you cut cut one side and have moser or dutchmen shorten and respline for 50-100 bones. Overkill for a DD but you'd get the ratio you wanted and a beefier front end.

Trying to stick with IFS if I can for now, might come down to swapping to solid due to engine fitment reasons anyways, but we'll see how that goes.
 
Trying to stick with IFS if I can for now, might come down to swapping to solid due to engine fitment reasons anyways, but we'll see how that goes.

Yeah, I get the "trying to keep things simple" motive.

That gen of 4runner with 33x12.5's look pretty sharp, I had a friend with one, something like a 3" body lift, 33x14 or 15 wide boggers and the wide bushwacker fender flares, it looked spectacular. Having 33's and not being overgeared in a 4runner like that with the lower diesel torque would make a fun rig. Both on pavement as a DD and exploring the backwoods.
 
With the wedding and Cummins Repower Cruise over with, finally making progress on the 4runner! New goal is to have it completed for Overland Expo East, so if anyone will be in the Asheville area in November, come check it out.
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Planning on taking another inch out of the rear by swapping out springs. Ended up with a 1" body lift and 1" diff drop to get the engine to fit in the engine compartment, along with a modified aluminum oil pan (which is currently being finished up).

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Engine mounts are tacked in - Axis engine side and custom frame side. Transmission sits 2" back from stock location by utilizing a Farmstrong AX15 to R2.8 Bellhousing (which is 3" shorter than the equivalent Axis setup...in some applications you need those 3 inches, but in the 4runner it either eliminates space for the cooling package, or moves the shifter too far back).

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Starting to mock up cooling package mounting locations and hose routing - have a couple used mechanical (engine driven) fans, radiators, charge air coolers laying around, so trying to find the best combo.

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You're 4runner project is looking great, the pics look good!

I see you mentioned changing springs in the back so it doesn't sit so tall, you could try leaving them for a bit, if you put a heavier rear bumper with swingout tire carrier, some storage drawers and tools in the back and let them break the springs in a bit you may be content with where it sits... Or maybe not.

If your moving your trans/t-case rearwards anyways, what about lengthening the rear axle control arms?

Then you don't have to get your rear driveshaft shortened and you widen your wheelbase and improve your departure angels. It may or may not be ideal, more of a question than suggestion, as I'm not familiar with the underside of the 4runner and what complications you'd have.
 
A question for OP regarding the engine mounts - If the front axle was not in the way (either by doing a SAS or possibly more diff drop), would the engine "bolt up" to the Toyota frame mounts, or is the engine too "skinny" at the isolaters? I understand the V6 frame possibly has the mounts too far back, but for a 4cyl frame, or adapter plates on the V6 frame, would the engine "bolt in" or are custom frame mounts needed no matter what?

I will be putting the 2.8 into a 4Runner very soon, and would be interested to know this before I start.
 

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