Cummins 6bt Conversion

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QUESTION!

What did you guys do for a water temp sender?

Looks like toyota factory threads are m16x1.5 and cummins are NPT so...
 
Last edited:
maxamillion2345 said:
QUESTION!

What did you guys do for a water temp sender?

Looks like toyota factory threads are m16x1.5 and cummins are NPT so...
Click to expand...
My fan temp sensor has an adapter. Don't know about the actually temp. I need to track that one down for my mental notes of how it's installed.
Do you have a photo of your shifter area?
 
My spal fans work off a thermoswitch (1/8 npt threaded into the radiator) so I don't believe that would work. Idk if I can find a way to make the stock cummins sensor work or not... I believe it's still there threaded into the back driver side of the head. I need to look. I probably have the plug for it, hopefully just splice wires and tie it into the stock LC wiring.
 
The shifter area is uhhh pathetic to say the least, to my everlasting shame. I'm pretty embarrassed to be honest but I'm not really good at this type of stuff. I'll snap a picture. The throw of the stock np205 shifter and it's position does not help!
 
maxamillion2345 said:
My spal fans work off a thermoswitch (1/8 npt threaded into the radiator) so I don't believe that would work. Idk if I can find a way to make the stock cummins sensor work or not... I believe it's still there threaded into the back driver side of the head. I need to look. I probably have the plug for it, hopefully just splice wires and tie it into the stock LC wiring.
Click to expand...
If I remember I'll try to take a look when I get home tonight. I can't remember if they spliced or used an adapter for the sensor.
What temp do your fans turn on?
 
So a couple things...

Bought the Sky's Manufacturing kit to adapt a GM master cylinder. The pushrod extension they supply only works on like one damn master cylinder ever apparently... so I had to go 1 5/16

Got everything bolted up and bled and the rears will lock up but the fronts won't. The brakes aren't very good but the pedal feels great. Not too hard. But she doesn't stop like I'd expect, even when going slow. I have the front port going to the front brakes and the rear port going to the rear brakes. No proportioning valve, no residual valves, nothing. If I did add a proportioning valve wouldn't that only reduce braking force to the rear and not help the front? I don't think it's too big IDK

Next issue is stupid hood cable and mechanism are junk and I need new ones.

Next, I have no brights. If I pull the switch towards me, VOILA brights and lows both come on but it's a momentary. If I push it away nothing, just keeps on the lows. PO installed some kind of IPF bulbs and a harness but I removed the harness and plugged straight into the factory harness. I'm a little confused there. Maybe just a fuse?

Still have other minor things I need to fix and chase but she's getting there.



 
That doesn't look that bad. Just need an extra piece of carpet and some shifter boots.
 
Haha thanks guys. Hopefully I can come up with something. I kind of wanted to put the factory uhh dealy over it and then use it as a place to mount gauges and stuff but I also enjoy the simple tunnel.

So anyone have any thoughts on the brights? Theres also some kind of aftermarket remote lock system but not an alarm and it doesn't quite work... not sure what the deal is there. It'd be awesome if it did but... idk

I've definitely got the slee wiring harness but I unplugged it and I'm pretty sure I hooked to the factory harness so I'm definitely confused. Again, the low beams come on, flip to brights -- low beams stay on, pull back for momentary brights and lows and highs come on. Dash will light up when I pull back but nothing happens when I flip on the high beams.

Any thoughts there? Not sure if it's related to the slee stuff or not. I can't remember if it worked normally or not before I started fxxxing with it but I do remember thinking WOW the lows come on with the highs so I think it did work before.

Swapped the lines around on the master cylinder. Rears still lock up. Fronts aren't doing their fair share. Think I might just put all new parts on the front brakes. Beats me!
 
I probably missed it some where but what master are you using? I used a Chevy 1ton front disc rear drum master with my jeep on tons and rear disc brake conversion. With an after market inline rear proportioning valve and 40" tires. Can't say I ever locked them up but got myself In a pickle in traffic more than once and the thing would feel like a cartoon with the tires at all corners walking as they would grab and release and jump around.
 
The rear proportioning valve will
Cut the rear pressure to allow you to push a little harder to achieve higher front pressure/braking. When the rear locks up its natural to let of or stop pushing. Also remember that when the rear locks up it is actually doing less stoping than if they where not locked. ABS principle. So the front may be better than you think.
 
maxamillion2345 said:
Haha thanks guys. Hopefully I can come up with something. I kind of wanted to put the factory uhh dealy over it and then use it as a place to mount gauges and stuff but I also enjoy the simple tunnel.

So anyone have any thoughts on the brights? Theres also some kind of aftermarket remote lock system but not an alarm and it doesn't quite work... not sure what the deal is there. It'd be awesome if it did but... idk

I've definitely got the slee wiring harness but I unplugged it and I'm pretty sure I hooked to the factory harness so I'm definitely confused. Again, the low beams come on, flip to brights -- low beams stay on, pull back for momentary brights and lows and highs come on. Dash will light up when I pull back but nothing happens when I flip on the high beams.

Any thoughts there? Not sure if it's related to the slee stuff or not. I can't remember if it worked normally or not before I started ****ing with it but I do remember thinking WOW the lows come on with the highs so I think it did work before.

Swapped the lines around on the master cylinder. Rears still lock up. Fronts aren't doing their fair share. Think I might just put all new parts on the front brakes. Beats me!
Click to expand...
I had my high beam relay go out once with my Slee harness. I doubt it's that simple in your case but maybe worth a check if you already haven't.
 
cjmoon said:
The rear proportioning valve will
Cut the rear pressure to allow you to push a little harder to achieve higher front pressure/braking. When the rear locks up its natural to let of or stop pushing. Also remember that when the rear locks up it is actually doing less stoping than if they where not locked. ABS principle. So the front may be better than you think.
Click to expand...

1 5/16 GM

I definitely just stood on em and let the rears drag.

I think I might redo the front brakes and hone the vacuum pump and add new vanes and see what happens.

A prop valve is probably needed though.
 
I think you need a prop valve like others have stated to fix your brakes.

The high beam issue sounds to me like you need to disassemble the switch in the column and clean the contacts...
 
Prop valve won't fix my front brakes though.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll see what I can do.
 
What kind of gear ratio do you have with that Dodge transfer case?
Edit. Never mind I just went back to the start and saw you posted it.
 
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