This is key, closing the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
Cummins 4bt into my FJ60
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This is key, closing the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
86 and 87 year model 60 did not have the clutch arm spring. Its important to get the right clutch slave from Toyota that matches the year model truck you have. I've been down that road a few times.
On my truck we ended up changing the length of the clutch slave rod. Its somewhat magical to get one of the swaps just right on the clutch slave business.
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- #663
I spent a little time in the shop finishing the exhaust yesterday. As you can see from the previous pictures that I bought a three disk insert to go into the exhaust. Here are some pictures fabricating it together.
I tried to install the t-bolt clamps and, oops, most of them are too small. I don't know how I mess up simple things like that sometimes.
I tried to install the t-bolt clamps and, oops, most of them are too small. I don't know how I mess up simple things like that sometimes.
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- #664
Then I had to paint it.
what's it sound like now?
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- #666
It's not quiet. I might have gotten a 10% reduction in noise, not much more. A couple of people noticed it was quieter. It's still loud though. I'll get a video soon.
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- #667
Better pics.
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- #668
I'm starting to think my clutch isn't going to cut it. I have a centerforce dual friction clutch, but no matter how I adjust it, it slips when I hit the power hard in fourth gear. I thought it had 2500 lbs of pressure. Is that not enough? What are some of you guys using?
This rig gets some serious diesel mileage! I haven't figured out what it is yet, but I can go a long way on a littel fuel. I keep thinking my fuel guage is broken!
This rig gets some serious diesel mileage! I haven't figured out what it is yet, but I can go a long way on a littel fuel. I keep thinking my fuel guage is broken!
Those centerforce clutches rely on the weights and centrifugal force to get the peak clamp load advertized. Otherwise, the finger springs aren't that stiff, to allow for an easy pedal. You might not be able to spin it fast enough with that low speed torque monster. Seems to me that design of clutch is better suited to higher revving gas motors. Just a WAG, though...
I wish I knew what was going on so I could offer a helpful suggestion, but I'm stumped at the moment. I'm using the Ford clutch setup that came in the bread truck I sourced my engine from. It's really nothing special, the standard 11" 3/4 ton setup. I am using a centerforce clutch and pressure plate that I got to replace the worn out Ford stuff. It's been working perfectly for me. I'm using a slave cylinder for a '87 FJ60 to work the Ford fork.
Here's the part numbers I'm using:
Clutch Centerforce 383735
Pressure Plate Centerforce 360049
Throwout Bearing Centerforce N1714
Maybe you're making way more power than I am,
but I don't know. I have tweaked mine pretty good and it has some serious torque.BTW, I get an average of 24 MPG with mine if I don't get too lead-footed.
What if you disconnect the slave cylinder and drive it, then see if it still slips. That'll tell you if its the hydraulic system causing the clutch to slip.
Do you have boost and pyro gauges? What psi are you hitting?
Do you have boost and pyro gauges? What psi are you hitting?
I compared a centerforce to a standard LUK clutch and they looked identical except for the weight system which would only help
There are different thicknesses of clutches right? could it be a low profile unit when it shouldn't be?
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- #673
Okay, I crawled under the rig yesterday and looked at the clutch. When I installed it, I had to remove it twice and reinstall it (Once for the pilot bearing and I can't remember the second reason). anyway, I used red threadlocker on the clutch bolts. So, when I did the final install and I torqued the bolts, I never did a visual inspection of how the clutch was contacting the flywheel. Remember this was outside and in the dark at the time. Besides, I had never had an issue when I was torqueing clutch bolts. Two of the bolts torqued properly, but didn't go deep enough to make the clutch housing contact the flywheel. I removed the bolts, blew out the holes with compressed air (I did all of them ehile I was there), cleaned the bolts on whire wheel, reinstalled them with blue threadlocker and torqued them down. The clutch housing made contact with the flywheel all the way around. Problem solved. Clutch works perfectly.
That's good news. I know all about wrenching at night and not seeing everything right just to have to go back in later and fix things.
Yep, I know about what can happen when you're wrenching outside at night. Did you know it's possible to pit a Chevy disk pad in backwards with the metal backing against the rotor? 
That really makes some interesting noises when you're driving to work the next day. People at work will make fun of you too.
That really makes some interesting noises when you're driving to work the next day. People at work will make fun of you too.
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- #676
Yep, I know about what can happen when you're wrenching outside at night. Did you know it's possible to pit a Chevy disk pad in backwards with the metal backing against the rotor?
That really makes some interesting noises when you're driving to work the next day. People at work will make fun of you too.
Wrenching in the dark sucks! I thought I had enough light with my headlamp, but no.
This is what I call the "What did I do wrong?" stage of the build. I just keep opening the hood and thinking "What the hell is that?".
That's a hell of a quote right there.
I just want more pictures!!!!!!!!!!
No but seriously I'm glad you got it figured out.
No but seriously I'm glad you got it figured out.
The only thing that is more unsettling than catching your mechanic doing a crappy job is remembering that you are the mechanic..
Here, Here! When you don't do this every day, and nobody does what we are doing every day, second guessing is second nature!
Close the hood each day, drive it down the road and see what new noises we have.
