Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

[cullmancruiser]

Relay part numbers:
Mopar 56007067
GM 88922706
Delco C1976

I included the alternative numbers because my parts guy said the Mopar relays are hard to get any more. If you use your own relays a standard 30 amp Bosch style automotive relay will work for the hold side, but you will need a heavy duty 60 amp relay for the pull side.

 

[Wyoming]

The black wire is ground as you stated. IIRC the white wire is hold current and the red wire is pull current. The solenoid takes more power to pull the shutoff linkage initially, so both the white and red wires are energized for cranking, and when the engine starts the red wire only is energized to hold the plunger in. I will double check with our mechanics today about that. I would suggest getting relays from a '96-'98 12 valve Dodge to control your solenoid. I can get the part numbers when I get to work. You might be able to get a wiring harness for those relays at a junkyard if you get lucky. The Dodge relays mount on the firewall kind of between the master cylinder and engine. Whatever relays you get make sure they are heavy duty. That solenoid pulls a good bit of current.

Relay part numbers:
Mopar 56007067
GM 88922706
Delco C1976

I included the alternative numbers because my parts guy said the Mopar relays are hard to get any more. If you use your own relays a standard 30 amp Bosch style automotive relay will work for the hold side, but you will need a heavy duty 60 amp relay for the pull side.

Okay, let me try this again. I want to have a switch on the dash for the fuel shut off. I will run the white wire (Hold wire) to the dash switch. I will run the red wire (Pull wire) to a relay (60amp) and the black wire to the ground on the relay. I will run a wire from the starter solonoid to the relay. When I turn the ignition, the relay closes and sends current to the pull wire. I also run a wire from the relay to the battery and ground the relay. Is that right?

white wire to switch on dash (30 amp fuse)
red wire to relay
black wire to ground on relay (Or is just to any ground)
wire from relay to starter solonoid
wire from battery to relay
Wire to ground relay.

Switch on dash gets the white wire and a power wire. Does it get anything else?

At this point, I don't know if I can afford to buy all the beers I owe you Cullman.

 

[69rambler]

What is this dash switch for?

The pull wire goes to the starter, a relay handles the load if the starter has integral contacts. If the starter has a separate relay (ford) there's no relay needed.

The hold wire is connected to the vehicles ignition power wire.

 

[Wyoming]

What is this dash switch for?

The pull wire goes to the starter, a relay handles the load if the starter has integral contacts. If the starter has a separate relay (ford) there's no relay needed.

The hold wire is connected to the vehicles ignition power wire.

I was thinking of hiding the dash switch and using it like a security devise.

This is going into an FJ60, so I imagine it should be set up like yours is. Did you use a relay?

What are "integral contacts"? Whatever they are, I don't think my starter has them.

 

[Wyoming]

Some pictures of the finished battery holder. I know, pretty boring.

 

[Wyoming]

One more.

 

[FLNewt]

Some pictures of the finished battery holder. I know, pretty boring.

Very nice. Not boring at all!

 

[The Phoenician]

keep posting, this is the only porn I get out here.

 

[Wyoming]

I found the Fuel shutoff relay and wiring harness on e-bay of all places. Will not be here until Wednesday, which is about my goal for starting the beast. I have John Deer break in oil coming in today. I have two different people telling me how many hours to use it. One says 50 hours and the other says 300. I'm leaning toward 50 because of the rebuild. I hate that, because it's $83 of oil and the filters. Changing the oil just got a little more expensive. Tomorrow is devoted to the exhaust, which will be the last of the major fabrication. I have to relocate some of the heater hoses to get it to work. It's those stupid little side things that drive me nuts. After the exhaust, it's mostly little one and two hour projects. Install and wire the fan, put in the turbo piping, water hoses, diesel padal linkage, etc...

Oh, Rambler, I tried to thread all three pitches of 10mm bolts again last night, nothing would thread up. I did pay a lot of attention to the play on the 3/8" bolt and I have to admit, they seem to have too much. I'm wondering if the 16mm thick adapter (Thanks isbj60) for the starter is interfering. I will take it off tonight and check. Thanks for the catch Rambler.

 

[Wyoming]

keep posting, this is the only porn I get out here.

Can you even say the word "Porn" in those countries?

 

[isbj60]

Oh, Rambler, I tried to thread all three pitches of 10mm bolts again last night, nothing would thread up. I did pay a lot of attention to the play on the 3/8" bolt and I have to admit, they seem to have too much. I'm wondering if the 16mm thick adapter (Thanks isbj60) for the starter is interfering. I will take it off tonight and check. Thanks for the catch Rambler.

I'd love to take credit for the adapter, but I think mine wouldn't work for you.

You will probably be best served chasing the threads with a 10x1.5 tap. Might just be some issues with the threads. Sometimes the softer metals will stretch instead of cut if a dull tap is used, and will recoil to a smaller diameter once the tap is removed. You will get the appearance of proper threads, but they will be too tight to let a fastener thread in. I doubt the adapter can cause any issues like what you describe, unless the problem is the bolts are too short. That does not sound like the case.

 

[Wyoming]

I'd love to take credit for the adapter, but I think mine wouldn't work for you.

You will probably be best served chasing the threads with a 10x1.5 tap. Might just be some issues with the threads. Sometimes the softer metals will stretch instead of cut if a dull tap is used, and will recoil to a smaller diameter once the tap is removed. You will get the appearance of proper threads, but they will be too tight to let a fastener thread in. I doubt the adapter can cause any issues like what you describe, unless the problem is the bolts are too short. That does not sound like the case.

Huh...I thought I got that from you, but now that you mention it I may have gotten it from someone on 4btswaps. I'm getting old and the memory was never good.

I think the adapter is hard against the block and that it needs to be removed and ground down to let it rotate 1/64". I think it might be interfering that way.

 

[The Phoenician]

Can you even say the word "Porn" in those countries?

not without risking the burning of the embassy

 

[Wyoming]

not without risking the burning of the embassy

Now you've done it!

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

I'm not sure how your wiring for the fuel cutoff went, but I just tied it into a toggle switch on my dash, and wired that right into a "switched" power source right in the fuse box of the cruiser.

That way I can shut the motor down on command, I also attached the choke cable to the manual fuel cutoff on the pump.
Can't have too many safety measures.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'm not sure how your wiring for the fuel cutoff went, but I just tied it into a toggle switch on my dash, and wired that right into a "switched" power source right in the fuse box of the cruiser.

That way I can shut the motor down on command, I also attached the choke cable to the manual fuel cutoff on the pump.
Can't have too many safety measures.

Agreed, can't have too many safety measures.

 

[Elbert]

you will be miles ahead to makes things simple rather than complicated, both now and when and if repair is needed in the future. In regard to wiring or anything else.

 

[Wyoming]

I'm not sure how your wiring for the fuel cutoff went, but I just tied it into a toggle switch on my dash, and wired that right into a "switched" power source right in the fuse box of the cruiser.

That way I can shut the motor down on command, I also attached the choke cable to the manual fuel cutoff on the pump.
Can't have too many safety measures.

I'm going with that togle switch. Manual fuel cut off comes later. I just want to get this thing driving!

 

[Wyoming]

This weekend was for the exhaust. In the beginning I thought I would do the exhaust on Saturday...

This thing was a B***h!

Started with the "Up" pipe. As you can see, there were a lot of water hoses to move. I started with a hard 90 degree bend in a 3" piece of aluminized tubing. I'm sure the way I did it will cause cavitation or something, but there was not a lot of room for what I wanted do.

 

[Wyoming]

The "up" pipe worked rather nicely and was perhaps the easiest thing to build on this crazy exhaust. next I built the feet to mount the "muffler" to the A-pilar. You will have to excuse me, I did not do a good job of photographing steps, so the pictures skip to the hole in the quarter panel step to show the muffler mounted to the A-pilar. And then of course there is the hole in the quarter panel which I made little squares to bolt to the fender which I would later weld to.