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- #461
A couple more of the outlet placement.
Cummins 4bt into my FJ60
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- #462
I think I have some somewhere. But can I find it?
Dave,
do you have any pictures of your diesel pedal linkage?
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- #464
I thought you had a 4bt? Wouldn't it be a diesel pedal? But yeah, anything with a linkage to a 4bt.
Here's a picture of my throttle. The top cable is the TV cable for the 700r4. The lower one is the throttle cable from the gas pedal and the chain is the aftermarket (sucks) cruise control.
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- #467
Here's a picture of my throttle. The top cable is the TV cable for the 700r4. The lower one is the throttle cable from the gas pedal and the chain is the aftermarket (sucks) cruise control.
Lol...thanks Dave. Sorry to waste your time, I forgot we had different injection pumps. The P-pump needs to be pushed from the pedal. Again, sorry to waste your time.
The P-pump throttle is universal. The lever can be mounted however you need it to work in any direction.
What often works well is to mount a plate on the AFC cover bolts to hold the throttle cable, orienting the throttle cable vertically.
For the 60 series we make the intercoolers bolt to the core support. There's 6 aluminum standoffs welded inside the end tanks. long bolts hold the radiator and IC to the core support.
That IC is 4" thick. Cools 250HP pretty good.
That IC is 4" thick. Cools 250HP pretty good.
A simple cable arrangement can be made from a modified 62 throttle pedal and cable. Look in the part out section.
You graft the pedal bases together and you can shorten the cable fairly easily, especially if you use a screw down terminal at the pump lever.
Just an idea
Doug
You graft the pedal bases together and you can shorten the cable fairly easily, especially if you use a screw down terminal at the pump lever.
Just an idea
Doug
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- #471
Of course! D'oh! I don't know why I don't see these things. Thanks Rambler.
: Not sure I understand this Doug.
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- #472
I started on the battery holder last night and didn't get very far for three hours. Man, is that a big battery!
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- #473
It is still not finished, I need to add another bolted tab and a strut, but I was able to set the battery in and see how it sits. What do you guys think? I think it is going to be close, but it should clear the hood okay. I need to find some rubber to line it with.
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- #474
I also took the time to install the starter. Turns out the starter mounting bolts are SAE! 3/8". As you can see, there was a clearance issue with the brake line and I had to unbolt the bracket from the frame. I will have to reposition it about an inch to and inch and a half.
In the third picture, you can see that the cobra head intake in the down position was not going to work. Thankfully I have another filter mounting head in the horizontal position getting here tomorrow. Rotating that cobra head intake up will make life a lot easier.
In the third picture, you can see that the cobra head intake in the down position was not going to work. Thankfully I have another filter mounting head in the horizontal position getting here tomorrow. Rotating that cobra head intake up will make life a lot easier.
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FWII starter bolts should be M10X1.5. 3/8-16 will thread right in and then strip out when tightened in an M10 hole. If they're really 3/8 threads that's weird!
The 60 throttle pedal firewall mount is a little different is size compared to the 62. If you compare side by side, the grafting of parts becomes pretty clear. The 60 linkage is not user friendly in my opinion and 62 cable works well. A hole in the firewall for the cable and cable mount bolts and your good to go. Plus you can use the 62's hand throttle with this set up, which I find quite handy on cold days.
Looks good.
DOug
Looks good.
DOug
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- #477
I bought all three thread pitches for M10 and not a one would thread up. I was very frustrated. I will go back and check again, or have a buddy try it since I'm mentally challenged at times.
all the little stuff takes forever....but take your time and get everything right....its easier to do it now.
I like the 4bt swaps, I've never ridden in one but it would seem like it would make for a great off-road setup.
I like the 4bt swaps, I've never ridden in one but it would seem like it would make for a great off-road setup.
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- #479
Okay boys, I'm trying to understand the wiring for the fuel shutoff solonoid.
I have searched the 4btswaps sight a couple of times and not found an answer easy enough to understand for a dummy like me (I left an identical thread over there). I have a fuel shutoff solonoid with a wiring plug on it. There are three wires: red, black and white. Red is power? Black ground? and white is to the starter? I know a relay goes in here somewhere.
I would like to wire this to a toggle switch on the dash. So, the switch on the dash should go to a relay. What kind of relay? 4 post? 5 post? (I looked at both at NAPA tonight and no one knew) The relay closes to pick up higher amp power (Or the ability to pass more amps), which goes to the red wire? This would stay powered when the vehicle is running. So, if I have a 4 or 5 prong relay what is each prong wired to? 4 Prong (I'm guessing here), one to the dash switch, one to ground, one to battery, and one to the shutoff solonoid (Which is then wired: red to relay, black to ground and the white to the starter?)
If a wire goes to the starter, it would hook to the starter solonoid terminal, right. Certainly not to the terminal that the battery is connected to, that would provide constant power to the fuel shutoff solonoid. So, if it is connected to the starter solonoid terminal, wouldn't that be the same power coming from the keyed ignition? Would that power throw both solonoids? Or is it that the power from the starter then allows the shutoff solonoid to use the power from the relay?
Remember I'm an idiot when it comes to wiring, so use little words.
I have searched the 4btswaps sight a couple of times and not found an answer easy enough to understand for a dummy like me (I left an identical thread over there). I have a fuel shutoff solonoid with a wiring plug on it. There are three wires: red, black and white. Red is power? Black ground? and white is to the starter? I know a relay goes in here somewhere.
I would like to wire this to a toggle switch on the dash. So, the switch on the dash should go to a relay. What kind of relay? 4 post? 5 post? (I looked at both at NAPA tonight and no one knew) The relay closes to pick up higher amp power (Or the ability to pass more amps), which goes to the red wire? This would stay powered when the vehicle is running. So, if I have a 4 or 5 prong relay what is each prong wired to? 4 Prong (I'm guessing here), one to the dash switch, one to ground, one to battery, and one to the shutoff solonoid (Which is then wired: red to relay, black to ground and the white to the starter?)
If a wire goes to the starter, it would hook to the starter solonoid terminal, right. Certainly not to the terminal that the battery is connected to, that would provide constant power to the fuel shutoff solonoid. So, if it is connected to the starter solonoid terminal, wouldn't that be the same power coming from the keyed ignition? Would that power throw both solonoids? Or is it that the power from the starter then allows the shutoff solonoid to use the power from the relay?
Remember I'm an idiot when it comes to wiring, so use little words.
The black wire is ground as you stated. IIRC the white wire is hold current and the red wire is pull current. The solenoid takes more power to pull the shutoff linkage initially, so both the white and red wires are energized for cranking, and when the engine starts the red wire only is energized to hold the plunger in. I will double check with our mechanics today about that. I would suggest getting relays from a '96-'98 12 valve Dodge to control your solenoid. I can get the part numbers when I get to work. You might be able to get a wiring harness for those relays at a junkyard if you get lucky. The Dodge relays mount on the firewall kind of between the master cylinder and engine. Whatever relays you get make sure they are heavy duty. That solenoid pulls a good bit of current.
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