Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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You might want to plan ahead and delete your radio..

Having a stereo is over rated! No seriously, I was going to find a system that runs off my I-phone which would allow me to delete the stereo console in my dash.

You can always crank up the stereo. My concern is being able to hear phone calls. I may have to use my ear buds. As it was, I had a hard time hearing phone calls with the V-8.
 
Oops!!! Hey guys, I forgot to count the teeth on my flywheel. I'm using the chevy adapter, so should the number of teeth still be 157 like my Chevy flywheel?
 
Love it, with that nice point you may manage to split a rock or two!

Not happy with that at all. I will have to redesign when I yank it off for paint in a few weeks. I might have to build something round.
 
I didn't get much done last night. I started with the reinstall of the radiator. I wanted to get it checked out before using it again, but the radiator repair guy doesn't return phone calls and doesn't answer his phone. It looks ugly, but it wasn't leaking before I took it out and it has always cooled well. I had to spend about 40 minutes with a little flat head screw driver straightening fins that had gotten bent over. The fan I put on is from Jegs and I bought it before Johnny showed us all what he had scored. Should this fan set up not cut it, I will go with that.

You can see that the front of the engine and the center of the radiator don't match up. A mechanical fan would have been off center. I don't know if that matters.

The third picture is of the first of the turbo piping. I figured I should get it in before wiring up the battery as it is easier to install that particular joint without the battery in place.
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In an ADD moment, I cought sight of the temperature sending sensor and had to get it in right then. Easy enough. Seems like a good place to read the temp an the fitting to the left of it seems like a good place to return the water from the dash heater.

Wiring anything was not in the cards last night. First, the plug from the fuel shut off solonoid didn't match the plug from the fuel shut off solonoid relay wiring harness. Will have to rewire one of them. Second, I couldn't find any of my wiring ends.

I had to trim the crossmember that goes in front of the rediator to make it fit back on with the intercooler.
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there is a video on u tube somewhere where a guy just simply cut a hole in the hood...pouring black smoke on some mud hole runs, with a 4inch pipe siticking out of the hood.

this one .. ? coz this guy it's just my hero .. this it's a 2H with aftermarket turbo bigger plunger at IP and everything else it's just happiness .. it didn't last much tho .. but men oh men ..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrLfbG2U1Ks&list=FL2EeGsqbH_-NRrey4xpKwug&index=17&feature=plpp_video
 
I did the electrical last night. I hooked up the fen and the fuel shut off solonoid. Very easy, no swearing. I'm not hooking anything to the battery just yet.
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I did the electrical last night. I hooked up the fen and the fuel shut off solonoid. Very easy, no swearing. I'm not hooking anything to the battery just yet.

Hooking up the battery for the first time is a nervous moment. I said a quick prayer to the FSM before I hooked mine up. He must have been listening because I didn't have any spitzundsparken. :hillbilly:
 
Hooking up the battery for the first time is a nervous moment. I said a quick prayer to the FSM before I hooked mine up. He must have been listening because I didn't have any spitzundsparken. :hillbilly:

A real sphincter moment I'm sure.

On another note: I heard from a guy on 4btswaps and he said my flywheel should have 146 teeth, not the 157 I thought. Anybody know any different? Otherwise, I'm setting the Dakota Digital up for 146 teeth.
 
You are running the dodge flywheel right? SO it would not be the same tooth count as the GM version.
 
You are running the dodge flywheel right? SO it would not be the same tooth count as the GM version.

Nope Chevy adapter to the engine. The flywheel has a Chevy bolt pattern for the clutch. While the flywheel is not built by Chevy, I'm saying it's a Chevy.

I'm using a Chevy bellhousing attached to a Ranger III with a Chevy input.
 
I pilled some of the last fuel injection components off the fire wall last night, the fuel pressure regualtor and the coil. All that is left of the injection system is the fuel pump and lines. I' going to re-use most of the fuel lines.

Next I attached some wires to the Dakota Digital tach sensor. Yes, it is very close to the exhaust (looks closer in the picture than it is). I will be wrapping both the exhaust and the sensor in heat wrap, which came in yesterday.

I put the tach interface under the dash on the drivers side with some velcro and plenty of extra wire as I will have to pull it out to do the adjustments after I start the engine.
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Looking good I-man.. You've done a great job so far. Wish I could meet up and run a trail or two before I leave.. We will be back the first week in November for about 5 days, maybe then. (Well meet up anyway)

Stay in touch on the 4.56s.. I hope they work out for you, if not maybe we can swap thirds.. I might get a wild hair and wanna throw a SOA or shackle reversal and 35s or 37s on Marley one day.

J
 
Had a good weekend installation-wise. Started on Friday night with the oil pan heater. Luckily, again, my boss has that set of 3/4" drive sockets. I had to use a 1 7/16 socket to get the heater in.
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Then I put the new clutch slave I bought on. I know I said this time I was going to re-fab the bracket for the clutch slave, but It's worked okay for 8 years and I'm pressed for time - so it stays as is for now.

Also, I painted the oil cooler cover/oil filter head I got in the mail. This one mounts the filter in the horizontal position and allowed me to fit everything a little nicer on that side of the engine. I don't know why it looks so wierd in the picture.
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Saturday morning the oil cooler cover went on. This allowed me the rotate the turbo cobra head intake up and the turbo outlet to the intercooler down which allowed me to plumb the intercooler.
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I used the 3" to 2 1/4" silicone reducer to help make the bend to get the intercooler tubing to work. What do you guys think? Will it hold? I need to get some t-bolt clamps.

Next, I had to cut several inches off these little beauties and move the bracket down. I could have sworn that I took pictures of the relocation of the water hoses, but they are not on the camera.
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I found that the engine coolent outlet 3 1/4" was way bigger than the 1 1/2" inlet for the radiator and no one was going to make a flex hose with those two ends and the lenght I needed. I asked my boss what he thought and he quickly lathed me the reducer out of plastic. I attached it to the engine with a piece of 3 1/4" I.D. hose. I was able to butt the piece of plastic right against the engine outlet. I think it worked very nice. Don't worry, it was high grade plastic and will take the heat.
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From there I used a rubber tubing elbow and I had a nice lower radiator connection.
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Next I tackled the oil filter relocation bracket, which was fairly easy. Then it was time for dinner and to quit for the evening.

I also spent a lovely 2-3 hours at NAPA trying to figure out a longer turbo oil hose and steering hose. I had to buy 3/8" brake line to make a hard turbo line and a longer steering pump hose (More about that on Sunday).
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