Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Wyoming]

Boots,
Here is the gear calculator I'm using:

http://www.f-body.org/gears/ Try this calculator, you'll really like it. Just change the axle ratio and hit calculate and it will give you another table below so you can compare.

1st: 4.843:1
2nd: 2.619:1
3rd: 1.516:1
4th: 1:1
OD1: .845:1
OD2: .617:1
This puts me at 70 at 1900 RPMs (On paper). I don't need to go faster than 70. Does that sound about right for RPMs and that speed. Remember that my turbo has a 12cm2 housing so that it spools up sooner.

 

[disassociative]

I have a question about grounding. I will be fabbing the new battery box soon and I'm wondering where I attach the battery ground cable. On the 383 I had it grounded on the block. I always thought that was for the current flow with the spark plugs. The engine was also grounded to the frame and the body. Am I still running the ground wire to the engine block, or should I ground directly to the frame now?

I ground engine to frame, frame to battery(s), battery to body and battery to engine.

That is how my 60 was stock, my Isuzu NPR donor was stock, and how I wired my swap. Can't have too many grounds in my opinion.
Cheap and easy to do.

Doug

I read an interesting tech article about grounding the radiator as well to increase the lifetime of the water hoses, couldn't hurt anyway.

Great work Wyoming, keep it up!

 

[isbj60]

I read an interesting tech article about grounding the radiator as well to increase the lifetime of the water hoses, couldn't hurt anyway.

Great work Wyoming, keep it up!

My 5-ton military truck and both of my friends' deuce-and-a-halfs have the radiator gounded. Your mention of the tech article jogged my memory. Probably a good idea to ground every large chunk of metal, Ian. x2 on the great work, btw. Soon it will be back on the road.

 

[doug720]

Grounding the radiator would be along the same lines as bonding a boat - tying all metals in contact with saltwater to a less noble metal known as sacrificial anode.

Have not thought about that before and will have to give it some research. Boats have sacrificial anodes in the fresh water system also called pencil zincs. I have never seen these on land vehicle. Again time to check into it.

Doug

 

[doug720]

I'm good on drive shaft angles. Both are double cardons. I can always cut and rotate.

I could be wrong, but I remember seeing someone post that when you raise the front transfer case output, the driveshaft makes contact with something.

On my swap, I had to notch the IDS adapter ring so the front driveshaft would clear. This was with the trans mount at the stock angle also.

Again, just an idea to check now rather than later.

Doug

 

[Wyoming]

Here are some pictures from the crossmember fabrication. I was only patient enough to save one end of the old crossmember. I was basically worthless on Saturday as I had an engagement party to attend for a good friend. Actually did more harm than good the time I was in the shop on Saturday.

 

[Wyoming]

More crossmember.

 

[Wyoming]

Finished crossmember. I know, it's ugly, but I seriously ran out of patients for this fabrication today.

 

[Wyoming]

A picture of the front to back angel of the engine. I'm hoping that whan I put the 150 lb bumper and drive and the springs settle again, it should be about dead level. Then there is a picture of the angle of the bellhousing which is squared up with the tranny and thus has the 8 degree offset. And of course the shifter for the Ranger is hard against the hole in the tunnel and that will have to be fixed.

Yep, I still have to attach the new slave cylinder for the clutch.

 

[boots4]

1st: 4.843:1
2nd: 2.619:1
3rd: 1.516:1
4th: 1:1
OD1: .845:1
OD2: .617:1
This puts me at 70 at 1900 RPMs (On paper). I don't need to go faster than 70. Does that sound about right for RPMs and that speed. Remember that my turbo has a 12cm2 housing so that it spools up sooner.

I too am running a 12cm exhaust side and while it spools well there is some lag before it comes on, just not as much as a larger housing. I think it's reasonably well rounded but in my case with my spool and power plans I've run out of air with it. So IMO 1900rpm at 70mph is just about right so I'd suggest running the 4.56 gears at first to see if you like them especially since you've got that deep OD. With those gears you should accelerate better and potentially get the same or better fuel mileage because you don't need as much power due to the gearing advantage. While the inline pump can deliver more power overall my understanding is that it is with a little more rpm so that the VE pump has a slight advantage at lower rpm. With your current gearing you'd have a good set up for the inline pump that you'll be running.

You'd probably be fine with 4.11s but those are easy to find so those could be grabbed in the future. Only if you went down in tire size would I consider running 3.70s.

 

[Wyoming]

I too am running a 12cm exhaust side and while it spools well there is some lag before it comes on, just not as much as a larger housing. I think it's reasonably well rounded but in my case with my spool and power plans I've run out of air with it. So IMO 1900rpm at 70mph is just about right so I'd suggest running the 4.56 gears at first to see if you like them especially since you've got that deep OD. With those gears you should accelerate better and potentially get the same or better fuel mileage because you don't need as much power due to the gearing advantage. While the inline pump can deliver more power overall my understanding is that it is with a little more rpm so that the VE pump has a slight advantage at lower rpm. With your current gearing you'd have a good set up for the inline pump that you'll be running.

You'd probably be fine with 4.11s but those are easy to find so those could be grabbed in the future. Only if you went down in tire size would I consider running 3.70s.

Okay, sounds good. Thanks again Boots.

 

[Wyoming]

Hey guys, if you have time. I need pictures of your injection pump to diesel pedal linkage. I have given that no thought at all and I want to get it done next weekend.

I ordered the tubing and silicon conections for the turbo last night. I have a horizontal mount oil filter housing on it's way. The boost meter, the pyrometer and all the exhaust tubing should be here today. The Perma-cool dual remote filter mount should be at the post office. I have all the line for the fuel hook up.
things should roll along this week.

 

[Wyoming]

Some stuff came in from Jegs today. I tried to find a more reasonably priced Pyrometer and found some pretty cool ones for better prices, but the reviews said they were junk. Finally, I bit the bullet and bought Auto Meter. I'm a sucker for quality. Then there are some pictures of exhaust components.

 

[Wyoming]

The muffler, if you can all it that.

 

[isbj60]

You're making good progress. I think you can officially change your signature now...

 

[Wyoming]

Installed the intercooler last night. Thanks to Cullman telling me what intercooler to get, it was easy to make work. And, I had a buddy handy to help a little. I started by measuring for the holes that I needed and then cutting them out with a 2 3/4" hole saw. I used a piece of wood screwed to the back as a guide for the pilot.

 

[Wyoming]

Next, I cut some little 1/16" x 1" x 2" tabs and bolted them to the intercooler. I put the intercooler in place and tacked the tabs to the truck. I had never welded metal that thin (.065") and burned through just tacking it. I had to dial down the amps and patch the burn throughs and finish tacking the tabs after removing the intercooler.

 

[Wyoming]

Paint'em.

 

[davegonz]

Get some cheap edge trim for that hole.

http://www.vac-u-boat.com/rubber_edge_trim.htm

 

[Wyoming]

In the final installation, I realized that there was no way to get one of the nuts on with my fingers, so I used this little trick. I held it in place and pushed the bolt into it.

The final product.