- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 233
- Messages
- 21,819
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Now that's a set of motor mounts I-Man... enough said.
J
J
Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wyoming
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #422
Now that's what I like: someone who appreciates overbuilding! When in doubt, overbuild.
- Thread starter
- #423
Last night was dedicated to altering the motor mounts to raise the engine 3". It sure hurt to cut them apart, especially the passenger side mount. I really liked that one. I took a picture of the altered drivers side mount with my I-phone (Before I remembered where my camera was) and I can't figure out how to transfer the pic to my computer. So, just pictures of the passenger side mount on the table. The hardest part was getting the mounts clamped up proper and square on the band saw.
- Thread starter
- #424
The drivers side mount looks like Frankenstien's motor mount.
- Thread starter
- #425
The engine slopes to the passenger side .25 degrees. I'm hoping to clear this up when I rebuild the crossmember. the way everything bolts up with the engine square and level, the Ranger and the H55 have a 7 degree tilt to the drivers side.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2010
- Threads
- 44
- Messages
- 2,144
- Location
- Wilmington, NC
- Website
- www.kindredspiritscsg.com
The motor mounts are looking pretty beefy.
Keep it up, the motor looks great too.
Keep it up, the motor looks great too.
- Thread starter
- #427
I knew you could relate Stevo.
- Thread starter
- #428
I pulled the engine back out last night to put the pilot bearing in (Thanks to the Rambler). Simple, right? Not so fast. I kept thinking that the bearing seat looked funny and was wondering what the pilot bearing that fit it was going to look like. You know, one of those things you think and in hind sight you feel pretty dumb? Turns out, the race from the previous bearing was still in the seat. Man, are they hard. Only had one tool that touched it, a Snap-On burr tool in a driver-drill. That and lots of heat from the torch. It still shot my time line all to hell. It was not a good night.
On top of the bearing, I bashed my skull in on the forklift, and had the wrong clutch alignment tool. I put the engine on blocks and called it a night. I'll make another run at it tonight.
On top of the bearing, I bashed my skull in on the forklift, and had the wrong clutch alignment tool. I put the engine on blocks and called it a night. I'll make another run at it tonight.
- Thread starter
- #429
Yeah Elbert, that's where I'm at right now. I got the engine raised back up to within and inch or so from the hood the other night. I will be altering the tranny crossmember tonight or tomorrow night which could get it really close.
If you ever encounter the bearing problem again, like outer races on wheel bearings or the outer race of your pilot bearing, just lay a good fat weld bead on it. as the weld cools, it shrinks the race and it will fall right out. Seen it and done it. It's amazing.
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- #431
Sounds cool. I'll keep it in mind.
- Thread starter
- #432
I have a question about grounding. I will be fabbing the new battery box soon and I'm wondering where I attach the battery ground cable. On the 383 I had it grounded on the block. I always thought that was for the current flow with the spark plugs. The engine was also grounded to the frame and the body. Am I still running the ground wire to the engine block, or should I ground directly to the frame now?
Ground the engine to the frame, same as before. I believe your shutdown solenoid is a one-wire job and so are some temperature senders. Certainly won't hurt to maintain all items at.the same electric potential for corrosion concerns.
I ground engine to frame, frame to battery(s), battery to body and battery to engine.
That is how my 60 was stock, my Isuzu NPR donor was stock, and how I wired my swap. Can't have too many grounds in my opinion.
Cheap and easy to do.
Doug
That is how my 60 was stock, my Isuzu NPR donor was stock, and how I wired my swap. Can't have too many grounds in my opinion.
Cheap and easy to do.
Doug
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
X2 .. I have all 3 ( block / body / frame ) joined for better ground ..
- Thread starter
- #436
Okay, so I'll ground everything.
Got the engine back in last night for the final time. I just need to refabridcate the tranny crossmember. I still for the life of me can't figure out why the adapter is configured so that either the engine has to be rotated or the transmission has to be rotated, or a little bit of both.
Anyone with a stock 2f and tranny, please look and see what direction your transmission tilts. I can't remember if it is left or right looking from the back. I'm just wondering how much I can tilt that Ranger, H55 and transfer case and still get proper lubrication.
I held the intercooler in place real quick last night and it looks like it will fit perfect, thanks Cullman. I just have to get it strapped in tomorrow and measure for the piping.
I was gong to have the radiator looked at just to make sure it is sound while I have it out, but my boss tells me we don't have a radiator repair place in town any more. Nice to live in a little town.
Transmission and transfer case are tilted towards the passenger side frame rail, as pictured:
- Thread starter
- #438
Transmission and transfer case are tilted towards the passenger side frame rail, as pictured:
Okay, so what do you think, that is 5 degrees to the passenger side? I will be clocking mine in the other direction a total of 12.5-ish degrees. Does anyone thing lubrication will become a problem?
Looks maybe 5 - 7 degree's to me also. I left my trans angle stock on my swap.
The reason Toyota rotated the trans/transfer is to lower the output shafts and drive shaft angles. Have you checked these angles and clearance with the engine mounted yet? If you add a lift and raise the output shafts, you get into vibration issues. If you re-clock 12.5 + 5 stock, that's 17.5+ degrees of change! A Lot IMHO. My math tells me that with the center of the output shaft being about 12" from centerline, you would be raising the output shaft about 3.5". Maybe someone else do the math to confirm?
Just something to check now rather then later.
Looks good
Doug
The reason Toyota rotated the trans/transfer is to lower the output shafts and drive shaft angles. Have you checked these angles and clearance with the engine mounted yet? If you add a lift and raise the output shafts, you get into vibration issues. If you re-clock 12.5 + 5 stock, that's 17.5+ degrees of change! A Lot IMHO. My math tells me that with the center of the output shaft being about 12" from centerline, you would be raising the output shaft about 3.5". Maybe someone else do the math to confirm?
Just something to check now rather then later.
Looks good
Doug
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- Thread starter
- #440
I'm good on drive shaft angles. Both are double cardons. I can always cut and rotate.
