Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

[Wyoming]

Be careful that manifold doesn't back you up too close to the firewall.

Yeah, I've been looking at that. It's going to be tight. There really is no other way though. As it is, I might have to get a remote oil filter setup. I think the turbo inlet is going to interfere with the oil filter. I hope not, but i'm not optimistic. Of course, I can find out the answer fairly quickly by just bolting on the manifold and holding the trubo up to it. I haven't because I just know that whatever happens it's going to cost me more money.

 

[davegonz]

You can use a cobra head for the intake and hopefully clear the oil filter.

Cobra Head Elbows: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps

 

[Wyoming]

You can use a cobra head for the intake and hopefully clear the oil filter.

Cobra Head Elbows: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps

Thanks Dave!!!! This should make things a lot easier! I'm starting to owe a lot of guys beers. And ribs. And desert....

 

[Wyoming]

Upon further inspection the exhaust manifold has a crack in it. I found another one on 4btswaps and he should have it in the mail on Monday. Sigh...

And, strangely, it would not have fit the engine anyway. Only three of the four bolt holes would line up.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Sometimes you can't win with used stuff I-man... but, nonetheless, looking great.

J

 

[Wyoming]

Sometimes you can't win with used stuff I-man... but, nonetheless, looking great.

J

Thanks J.

 

[Wyoming]

I got a new rear main seal and was able to install it without ruining it this time. since I didn't have the tool that the manual instructed me to use, I made a circle out of ???? (Can't remember the name of the material right now) that would not alow the seal to past a certain depth.

 

[Wyoming]

Then I tapped it into place using a wooden block and the seal driver (I think that was what it was) and then it went right on the back of the crank shaft.

 

[Wyoming]

One last look at the guts and on went the oil pick-up and the pan. this concluded the lower end of the engine build. She was all sealed up.

 

[Wyoming]

Paint some more parts. Grrrr...

I thought I bought the wrong fan hub, but when I went to the Cummins parts website and put in my serial number it showed the one I got. I can make it work because I'm going to use an electric fan.

 

[Wyoming]

Thanks to Cullman I knew I had to make my high pressure fuel line brackets work instead of eliminating them. Here is the fix. I know, it's not pretty. If you look at the air intake horn, you will notice that it is missing it's long bolts. You can't get a metric 8 X 1.25 in a 155mm length in the town of Jackson. Seriously. I know J, McMaster Carr.

 

[Wyoming]

Even though the exhaust manifold was cracked, I used it to mock up the turbo. In the position I'm using it, I had to spin the intake housing (Turbine housing?). You can see how close the intake is to the oil filter assembly. I ordered the Cobra Head intake that Dave recommended and a filter relocation kit from Jegs (Fingers crossed it's the right one). For just a little over ten dollars more, I got the DUAL filter relocation kit. Got that, dual filters.

 

[Wyoming]

Oh by the way, I ruined my steering pump tonight. If anyone has another they want to sell PM me.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Oh by the way, I ruined my steering pump tonight. If anyone has another they want to sell PM me.

How did you do that? I have the one that I pulled out of my truck, it probably has some miles on it but it worked well while I was driving the D250 around. I'm not sure what you are planning on doing for brakes but it has one return line going into it so you would have to add another one if you were going to run hydroboost.

 

[The Phoenician]

Wyoming, or anyone else for that matter, do you guys know what the part number is for the rear main seal and a front one. Mine is a 4btaa. My mechanic is having a difficult time getting the right parts because everyone wants to run the vin number of the vehicle, which I don't have. I thought it would be easy to get it from the CPL number on the plate. Any help is much appreciated. I'll be flying out tomorrow so I may not be able to respond until I get home. Thanks in advance.

 

[Wyoming]

Wyoming, or anyone else for that matter, do you guys know what the part number is for the rear main seal and a front one. Mine is a 4btaa. My mechanic is having a difficult time getting the right parts because everyone wants to run the vin number of the vehicle, which I don't have. I thought it would be easy to get it from the CPL number on the plate. Any help is much appreciated. I'll be flying out tomorrow so I may not be able to respond until I get home. Thanks in advance.

Phoenician,
Call Endurance Power Products and ask for Preston, he will hook you up using your engine serial number and CPL. He's a pretty good guy and he doesn't waste any time and they have good prices and fast shipping. The number is : 800-467-5545. Good luck. Stay Safe.

 

[Wyoming]

Does anyone have pictures of their 4bts sitting in the frame from the bottom? I'm trying to get an idea of how deep this engine is going to have to sit. I'm going to have to lower the tranny ant transfer case, aren't I? Also, any pictures of the down pipe from the turbo. Also, keep your ears to the ground for a cobra head exhaust flange. Three inch. Used.

 

[Wyoming]

Just looking at Stevo's build and realized that my current tach set up is not going to work. What are you guys with 4bts using for tach set ups?

 

[davegonz]

I've got a Dakota Digital box with a sensor that counts teeth on the flywheel. The DD box then hooks up to the stock tach.

 

[cullmancruiser]

I've got a Dakota Digital box with a sensor that counts teeth on the flywheel. The DD box then hooks up to the stock tach.

Ditto here on the Dakota Digital box. It was a bit of a PITA to get it set right but it is the best way I found to go.


Your turbo is going to dump very close to your firewall with that long nose turbine housing you have. A shorter style will give you an inch more clearance. It doesn't sound like much, but one inch can make all the difference. It might be possible to machine your housing to the shorter style, I seem to remember doing that for someone else a few years ago.

My down pipe is actually an up pipe. It comes out of the turbo and up over the bell housing behind the head and then down and back out the driver side. I routed it that way because all the drive train stuff is in the way on the passenger side. I bought an assortment of 3" mandrel bends an exhaust shop was selling on ebay, machined myself a v-band flange, and cut and welded up what I needed to make my up/down pipe. I will see if I can get some decent pictures for you.