Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

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Really don't feel like I got very far this weekend. Got some of the fuel system plumbed. I got the front timing gear housing cover on and totaly ruined the rear main seal. I was trying to put the seal into the housing while it was off the engine. Has anyone done this? Advice?

Phoenician, can I get some more pictures of your engine? I'm having trouble with a couple of systems and what the manual is saying. Also, I think I was sent some fuel lines from another engine. I would like pictures of the fuel return line from the P7100, finger pointing in first picture, and the fuel air control system, finger in second picture. If you are able. I would like pictures from beginning, where I'm pointing, to where they end. If so, thanks.
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As you can see, there are some issues with my high pressure fuel line brackets. They seem to be too short. I found a diagram of the intake air heater for the 4bt and I'm wondering if this engine originally had one. I don't know if it's a big deal if the prackets are bolted down or not. In this general area, I'm having trouble locating an Air Intake Connection. If anyone knows of one...
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A little assembly order note: Put the fuel lift pump on the engine first and attach and torque the fuel line to the fuel filter before putting on the injection pump. You can see fromt he picture that it is a tight fit and I took off a little paint getting it on.
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Wyoming,
My engine is in the shop and I'm still in Iraq. I dug through the old pics I have before sending it in. I hope it has something that can help you. If not I'll be home in 10 days for two weeks and I will be stopping by to see the progress on the rig. I'll take all the detailed pics you need if your issue is not solved by then.
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here's a few more. Sorry if they aren't as detailed as you would have liked. Great progress on your build. I'm following it everyday.
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Wyoming,
My engine is on the shop and I'm still in Iraq. I dug through the old pics I have before sending it in. I hope it has something that can help you. If not I'll be home in 10 days for two weeks and I will be stopping by to see the progress on the rig. I'll take all the detailed pics you need if your issue is not solved by then.

Thanks Phoenician. Every little bit helps. It just goes to prove you can never have too many pictures of your 4bt.

I can't tell from the pictures, but I think the lines I'm looking at are going from the injector pump, splitting, and one goes to the turbo (I have no fitting on my turbo for a line), and I think the other goes to the head. This is for the fuel air control.

The other line I wanted to see is the fuel return line from the injector pump. It looks like I just need a banjo fitting and some rubber tubing going back to the tank. Easy enough.
 
From Phoenician's pic that piece/contraption on the top of the IP looks like the boost compensator (AFC) so all it needs is a boost signal. You can get that signal from the turbo if it had a port but since your's does not you can get a boost signal from the intake side of the head. There are several ports you could use so you could get a barb fitting that fits into one of those ports and run a line to the IP. I believe the tee on Phoenician's pic's is where a previous owner tapped into for a line to a boost gauge (the plastic tubing).
 
oh just FYI. Those pics were from the first day that engine arrived. I was in Iraq still and that's why it was dirty. When I came home for R&R I cleaned it up, but forgot to take pictures. These things escape you when you haven't seen family and friends for so long. Now when I go back on R&R I will take as many pictures as I can before I get yelled at for neglecting the loved ones. I only wrote this because of how dirty and embarrassing it looks like in comparison to Wyoming's engine. Hijack over.
 
From Phoenician's pic that piece/contraption on the top of the IP looks like the boost compensator (AFC) so all it needs is a boost signal. You can get that signal from the turbo if it had a port but since your's does not you can get a boost signal from the intake side of the head. There are several ports you could use so you could get a barb fitting that fits into one of those ports and run a line to the IP. I believe the tee on Phoenician's pic's is where a previous owner tapped into for a line to a boost gauge (the plastic tubing).

Boots, you are the man! I was wondering if there were a fitting that went to the head for that. In my research I thought I saw something that went from the air fuel control to the head and I know I have the ports on the head. What kind of hose should I run? Is rubber good enough? Thanks.

Which leads to: Is that where you want to read boost from? I could use a seperate port for that couldn't I? Thoughts?
 
oh just FYI. Those pics were from the first day that engine arrived. I was in Iraq still and that's why it was dirty. When I came home for R&R I cleaned it up, but forgot to take pictures. These things escape you when you haven't seen family and friends for so long. Now when I go back on R&R I will take as many pictures as I can before I get yelled at for neglecting the loved ones. I only wrote this because of how dirty and embarrassing it looks like in comparison to Wyoming's engine. Hijack over.

Sure, sure, whatever. It's probably already in your rig, dirt and all. On the plus side, when someone mentions how dirty it is, you can say, "That's genuine Middle Eastern dirt right there". I don't know anybody that wouldn't be impressed by genuine Middle Eastern dirt.
 
Man I wish it was in my rig already. I will use that line though, that's a good one. When it leaks oil, I'll attribute it to the richness of the middle eastern soil.
 
I like reading boost from the intake on the head since IC's can drop boost just a little so I'm reading what is actually going into the cylinder.

Here's where I'm getting boost reference to my AFC. This hose is silicon inner with rubber outer protection. I already had it so I used it. Regular rubber hose would probably do fine as long as you can get a good tight seal and it'll stand up to the under hood environment.

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And just an inch or two further back from that on the intake is where I'm getting my boost reference for my gauge. I was able to find a compression fitting that was much better than the rubber nipple that came with my gauge kit.

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Thanks Phoenician. Every little bit helps. It just goes to prove you can never have too many pictures of your 4bt.

I can't tell from the pictures, but I think the lines I'm looking at are going from the injector pump, splitting, and one goes to the turbo (I have no fitting on my turbo for a line), and I think the other goes to the head. This is for the fuel air control.

The other line I wanted to see is the fuel return line from the injector pump. It looks like I just need a banjo fitting and some rubber tubing going back to the tank. Easy enough.


I will save you some problems down the road here.

First, just a banjo bolt and rubber line will not work in your fuel return. The banjo bolt that goes there is a special one with a check valve and orifice built in to maintain fuel supply pressure. It's called an overflow valve. Without it you will never get your engine to start or run properly. Call us and we can send you one, they're not very expensive, or you can pick one up at your local injection shop.

Second, the injector line brackets are important. They dampen excessive flex from engine vibration. Without them your injector lines will eventually break from metal fatigue.

Your project is looking great. I should have taken the time to clean up things on mine as nicely as you have done. Keep the posts and pics coming, it's been fun.
 
I like reading boost from the intake on the head since IC's can drop boost just a little so I'm reading what is actually going into the cylinder.

Here's where I'm getting boost reference to my AFC. This hose is silicon inner with rubber outer protection. I already had it so I used it. Regular rubber hose would probably do fine as long as you can get a good tight seal and it'll stand up to the under hood environment.


And just an inch or two further back from that on the intake is where I'm getting my boost reference for my gauge. I was able to find a compression fitting that was much better than the rubber nipple that came with my gauge kit.

Thanks Boots, that is EXACTLT what I was looking for. It makes life a lot easier all of the sudden. Great pictures. I know exactly where those ports are on my head.
 
I will save you some problems down the road here.

First, just a banjo bolt and rubber line will not work in your fuel return. The banjo bolt that goes there is a special one with a check valve and orifice built in to maintain fuel supply pressure. It's called an overflow valve. Without it you will never get your engine to start or run properly. Call us and we can send you one, they're not very expensive, or you can pick one up at your local injection shop.

Second, the injector line brackets are important. They dampen excessive flex from engine vibration. Without them your injector lines will eventually break from metal fatigue.

Your project is looking great. I should have taken the time to clean up things on mine as nicely as you have done. Keep the posts and pics coming, it's been fun.

You are 100% right and I knew that. Doh! I even have the banjo with the check valve for that position. I don't know why I forgot when I wrote the post.

The pictures you provided of you engine made it look pretty clean. If my engine had come in complete and clean, knowing what I know now, I would just put it in. Really the rebuild facilitated all the painting. It was one of those, "I'm already there, I might as well do it right" things.
 
I picked up another exhaust manifold on E-bay because I don't think I can make the center dump work in the up (Makes the engine too tall) or down position (Interferes with the oil filter assembly). I'm hoping the rear dump manifold will work, although I'm not holding my breath. I'm thinking the turbo intake still will not get past the oil filter assembly. I think I need to find a center or rear dump that ports out the side instead of up or down. Anyway, you can see how rough the one I bought was. It took a lot of sand blasting to get it clean. You can see the pitting in the clean picture. Someone must have dipped the darn thing in salt water and left it in the sun.
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I picked up another exhaust manifold on E-bay because I don't think I can make the center dump work in the up (Makes the engine too tall) or down position (Interferes with the oil filter assembly). I'm hoping the rear dump manifold will work, although I'm not holding my breath. I'm thinking the turbo intake still will not get past the oil filter assembly. I think I need to find a center or rear dump that ports out the side instead of up or down. Anyway, you can see how rough the one I bought was. It took a lot of sand blasting to get it clean. You can see the pitting in the clean picture. Someone must have dipped the darn thing in salt water and left it in the sun.

Be careful that manifold doesn't back you up too close to the firewall.
 

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