Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

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I read the first like 8 pages last night. Sweet. I might be getting my hands on a 4bt. Just waiting to see what kind. I know a lot more from this thread. Thanks. :)

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Get a look at the ID plate on the gear housing like the pictures earlier in the thread. It will tell you about the motor. Ask some of the guys here about it, they will tell you more.
 
You're doing a great job. That engine is looking great! I think you'll be happy in the end with all the work you're putting in it now. Especially since these always draw curious eyes which usually result in the hood being opened up and the engine on display.
 
You're doing a great job. That engine is looking great! I think you'll be happy in the end with all the work you're putting in it now. Especially since these always draw curious eyes which usually result in the hood being opened up and the engine on display.

When I started, I just slapped stuff together because I was amazed that I could do it. The more I learn and the more comfortable I get with the work I'm doing, the better job I want to do. Plus, hanging around my buddy I'm seeing how truly nice things can look if you take your time and do it right.

Unfortunately, I'm an inside out type of guy, so while it is a very solid vehicle drive train and chasis wise, the body looks somewhat neglected. Lol I hope to learn from J.
 
Need some help. While I was putting the engine together last weekend, I started to put the thermostat in and the thermostat housing on only to find that the picture of the assembly in the manual has somethning in it I don't have. In the manual, from housing to motor, there is a thermostat housing, gasket, thermostat, thermostat seal (Rubber ring with shoulder) and lifting bracket. I don't have the gasket that goes next to the thermostat housing in my kit. Furthermore, when I go to a parts manual, it does not show a gasket either. Anybody done this assembly? Do I need the gasket? What I saw was that the thermostat went into the engine block and part of the thermostat was compressed when fully in. But the thermostat did not fit into the thermostat housing. I may have gotten the wrong thermostat. I will check that. What do you guys think?
 
Need some help. While I was putting the engine together last weekend, I started to put the thermostat in and the thermostat housing on only to find that the picture of the assembly in the manual has somethning in it I don't have. In the manual, from housing to motor, there is a thermostat housing, gasket, thermostat, thermostat seal (Rubber ring with shoulder) and lifting bracket. I don't have the gasket that goes next to the thermostat housing in my kit. Furthermore, when I go to a parts manual, it does not show a gasket either. Anybody done this assembly? Do I need the gasket? What I saw was that the thermostat went into the engine block and part of the thermostat was compressed when fully in. But the thermostat did not fit into the thermostat housing. I may have gotten the wrong thermostat. I will check that. What do you guys think?

I got a paper gasket and nothing for the part that mates with the head and the lift block.. I'm going to either make one or goop it.. There is a rubber seal that the t-stat seals off inside.. I won't know what was there until I pull it apart..
 
Something seems familiar here...
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Okay, I found the part number for the thermostat and bought another. Turns out, the reason the thermostat housing assembly didn't work was because I had the wrong thermostat. Problem solved. The thermostat assembly should go together just fine now.
 
Here is where I got to this weekend. I was in the shop all day yesterday and really feel like I didn't get very far.
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I have a little problem going here. My vacuum pump/stering pump combo doesn't clear my injection pump. Does anyone know how straight up and down the steering pump reservoir has to be? I can do some fabrication and make it work if I can clock the reservoir 15 or 20 degrees. Can I run the vacuum pump without the steering pump attached to it?
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Anyway, I got the injection pump installed. The cool thing about the how the injection pump goes on is that both the engine and the pump have timing pins that let you set them and then you can install the injuction pump gear without worrying about timing marks or keyways. I don't know what size the nut for the injection pump timing gear is, but it's bigger than the set of metric tools I had on hand. Luckily, my buddy has a 3/4" drive ratchet set and it had a 1 and 3/16" socket in it, which worked. Nice to know someone with the "Ultimate set of tools" (Anyone know what movie that's from?). Two of the nuts for the injection pump are pretty tight. Make sure you have an extension or two (or three or four) and universal joint for these little beauties.
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Have I expressed how much I love painting?

One of the easier things to install were the injectors. I reread the torque spec several times just to make sure it was that easy, but it was. New injectors, pretty.
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Wyoming said:
I have a little problem going here. My vacuum pump/stering pump combo doesn't clear my injection pump. Does anyone know how straight up and down the steering pump reservoir has to be? I can do some fabrication and make it work if I can clock the reservoir 15 or 20 degrees. Can I run the vacuum pump without the steering pump attached to it?

I believe dodge used a standard saginaw steering pump. If that is the case, you can remove the resevoir and run a remote one from PSC or similar. I have not done it, so hopefully someone with some experience can point you in the right direction. I will do some research, too. Unfortunately, when I had those apart it looked like the drive for the power steering pump is also the oil barrier for the back of the vacuum pump. I doubt they will work separately. I thought the interference would be the lift pump, but it makes sense what you are seeing since that version of the p-pump is two cylinders shorter...
 
Ok. You can use a remote resevoir, but you will need to get one of these

https://www.polyperformance.com/sho...servoir-Can-JIC-Feed-O-Ring-Side-p-29314.html

It looks like you remove the two bolts and the high pressure fitting and the resevoir slides off. Put the new one on and use the jic fitting on top to go to the resevoir, and the return from the box goes to the resevoir also.

Psc does sell a performance pump for the dodge 94-02 application (yours) that has that remote-ready cover on it, so I know it can be done. It's probably best to call them and confirm the right part numbers for what you need (as well as how to do the swap) before dropping coin on stuff. Let me know what you find out!
 
If you're on the cheap, you can get the pump housing at Pik-N-pull. It is identical to the Poly Performance one mentioned above.

It can be found on many 80's era GM 3/4 to 1 ton trucks with hydrodoost brakes or Suburbans, blazers and pickups with a 6.2 diesel. Plus you get the reservoir and hardware.
 
Thanks K and FL, I will look into those options. They seem a lot better than the options I was thinking of. Remote might be the theme of the engine. I could have to use a remote oil filter too if the rear dump exhaust manifold I bought doesn't work for turbo placement.

FL post a picture or two of your rig. I'm thinking about going to 37s next tire change.
 
was the engine not setup for PS? Seems like you should not have to make any adjustments? I'm thinking of running a remote P/S revervoir on my 5.7 too...to help with air pockets on steep hill climbs.
Some of the GM large van trucks and one ton trucks (with 5.7 power) had remote p/s reservoir...I'm sure there are a varity of options in that area depending on the style/model of the p/s pump in use.
 

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