Cummins 4bt into my FJ60

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Yeah, it's a nice shop...wish it were mine. I work for a construction company and that is our welding/mechanic shop. My boss builds mind blowing hot rods - He is currently tooling around in a 1970 Chevelle with an LS3 in it (He got the first 2 LS3s ever offered outside of a car). Six speed manual transmission, frame up restoration, all leather interior, modern guages. It's nice. By boss is very generous about letting me use the shop whenever I want. My apartment is attached to the North end of the shop, so I can pretty much roll out of bed and work on my projects.

Yes, that is a Bridgeport. Good eye. It doesn't get much use. He really likes his lathe though. It gets used all the time.

Here are some Cummins parts numbers I looked up for the 4bt:
3911587 Fan Belt - Serpintine
3903202 Fuel Filter - I think this is the kind with the water seperator.
3908616 Oil Filter
3914383 Oil Pick-up Tube Flange Gasket
3911535 Oil Pan Gasket
3905144 Drain Tube For Turbo Oil Drain - the piece that fits into the block.
3902666 Valve Cover Gasket
3917324 Thermostat
390463 Gear Housing Access Hole Cover (That number seems short. I'll check it)
3903475 Geat Housing Access Hole Cover Seal - Rectangular Ring
 
WTF! This guy over at 4btswaps.com is talking about piston dome shapes, ring tapers and injection patterns. Are you kidding me? Piston dome shapes? Ring tapers? Injection patterns? Come on! Does anyone know about this...Uhhh...stuff?

It wouldn't bother me so much, but getting information about Cummins parts is harder than finding an honest politician. Every time someone tells me something, it takes hours and days to find even the smallest scrap of information. !@#$%^&&*!
 
You might be able to save yourself a bit of time and get the answers you need from cummins. Cummins uses a control parts list, or CPL, to identify all of the critical parts that make an engine a specific power rating. A Cummins part store should be able to take your CPL and that of an engine configuration you want (like the p7100 pump in a bread truck application) and give you a parts breakdown for each CPL number. Compare the lists to identify which parts (if any) are the same. I do know that for 2001-2002, dodge had a standard output and high output option. the difference was 10 horsepower and 45ish ft-lbs, but to get that they used a different VP-44 pump, pistons (higher CR), and injectors. I think the head was different, too, with hardened valve seats. Different ECU, too. Of course, Cummins builds for 500,000 miles, so you can probably mix and match parts and still have an engine that will last for a long time, even if the spray pattern isn't perfect or if the CR is off by .5 or so. One thing I would be sure to match to the CPL the pump was used in is the injectors. They can have different pop pressures, which will cause your timing to be off if the injector causes the pump to build more pressure before it injects, or vise versa. Clear as mud yet? Sorry if I am long-winded or strayed too far. I love these engines and spend a bit of time learning about them. It truly is frustrating trying to glean info from most forums. There is a lot of ignorance out there...
 
Well, i sat back and assesed and took the advice that some of you guys offered a little while ago: I'm selling this engine and going to try to find another that better fits my needs. It was the piston oil sprayers that were the final straw. I don't think this engine has them and I'm not cracking it to find out. The serial number says no. Selling it and starting again.
 
It would appear from reading various sources....the 4bt has many different configurations so it would be best to source something that matches a road truck or vehcile rather than some of the other configurations. As noted if you get the wrong replacement parts or whatever then its going to screw with the other parts in the systems...ie injectors not matched to the IP...etc.

I don't know what versions of the 4bt these other guys are running but seems like a good option would be to source something from a box van body truck....maybe even getting a NV4500 mated with a 4bt all in one purchase and you might be able to salvage other items as well....similar to what boots did in the hardcore forum.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/160807-family-haulin.html
 
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Wyoming said:
Well, i sat back and assesed and took the advice that some of you guys offered a little while ago: I'm selling this engine and going to try to find another that better fits my needs. It was the piston oil sprayers that were the final straw. I don't think this engine has them and I'm not cracking it to find out. The serial number says no. Selling it and starting again.
Click to expand...

Good, although it would have been great to watch you build it, getting one better fitted for your purpose from the beginning will save you a lot of money and headache.
 
Wyoming said:
Well, i sat back and assesed and took the advice that some of you guys offered a little while ago: I'm selling this engine and going to try to find another that better fits my needs. It was the piston oil sprayers that were the final straw. I don't think this engine has them and I'm not cracking it to find out. The serial number says no. Selling it and starting again.
Click to expand...

I definitely think that you have made the right decision. Selling the stuff you have shouldn't be a problem. Find the engine you need shouldn't be a problem now that you know what to look for.
Since you're starting over you might want to consider an Isuzu 4bd1t or 4bd2t engine. The displacement and power output of the engines are almost identical to the Cummins. They are shorter in height so they are a bit easier to fit in the LC and they are smoother running and quieter than the Cummins.
 
I just read this start to finish. I did not see what was so wrong with the 383 to begin with.
A 4bt swap is a cool thing to have but for power and mileage it seems like a lot of work and $$$$ to get close to the same result as the 383.


As far as mileage goes you can toss the 383 back in. Toss a intake on there and a kit from gotpropane with a 60 gallon propane tank behind your back seat(44"x24" 200 lbs empty holds 48 gallons) and vent it to the outside. You will still get 10-15 mph (maybe better) but at half the cost per gallon giving you the same cost per gallon as a 30mpg swap. Not only does the motor last longer you qualify for tax credits for having a Alternative fuel vehicle, can use the HOV lane, carpool parking and other perks. Oh and emissions testing should never be a issue unless you toast a valve or something.

That's what I am doing with my 383 buggy(24 gallon capacity) running 62 axles. I do not have the cool perks that your state offers. I am doing it simply for the cheaper maintenance, reliability, and less per gallon standpoint. Being able to keep a 500 gallon tank with a wetline kit and not regret buying gas on Tuesday cause Wednesday it went up 10 cents is something that is really nice.
 
Wow, I just peeked at your propane prices out of curiosity and it is a bit higher over there. still it may be something to consider.
 
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I just bought another engine. The first one sold and I got a p-pumped engine for the same price. Risk/reward here: The engine was brand new with 300 miles on it when it seized a piston. Guy claims honing will take care of the scoring - we'll see. If he's right...Cha-ching! If not, I still got a hell of a motor with a little work. I'm psyched!
 
Sounds like it might be a good score. This engine should make things much easier on you than the old one. Now the fun begins. :D
 
Wyoming said:
Well, i sat back and assesed and took the advice that some of you guys offered a little while ago: I'm selling this engine and going to try to find another that better fits my needs. It was the piston oil sprayers that were the final straw. I don't think this engine has them and I'm not cracking it to find out. The serial number says no. Selling it and starting again.
Click to expand...

That right there is pretty much exactly why I did what I did with the motor I had built. I could only confirm the factory turbo block had the oil jets. So a factory turbo block was what I had to start with.
 
Been a long few weeks. One of my jobs has us into overtime. Anyway...

It finally got here! The next engine for swap. Here are some pictures. It's a little rough, I'm going to have to rebuild it top to bottom. There are a couple of things missing. It will be a good project.
DSCN0226.jpg
DSCN0227.jpg
DSCN0228.jpg
 
The valve covers are missing as well as the lifter cover (I think that is what it's called), a steering pump and a vacuum pump. There was no turbo with it. No big deal, I planned to get a new one anyway. The exhaust manifold is a center dump going up. Does anyone know if I can turn that upside down and make if work? I don't think I have the hood clearance to make the current configuration work. If I have time, I will tear it down this weekend and and see if the block needs machined and then order an overhaul kit. So many questions! I hope to start ordering parts by the end of next week. I would like to have it re-built by the middle of next month. Fingers crossed.
 
There may be an issue if you flip the exhaust manifold with the oil drain on the turbo but I am not sure a gravity flow is necessary
 
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