Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[isbj60]

Oil removal on a turbo is extremely important. It either needs to be a large gravity drain or pumped using a dry sump oil pump. The good news is the oil drail comes off of the bearing housing of the turbo. You should be able to loosen the exhaust and compressor housings on the turbo and rotate them to the desired position, so flipping the manifold shouldn't be a problem.

I have a vacuum/power steering pump combo from a 5.9 cummins that I do not want or need... Pm me and we can work something out if you are interested.

 

[Wyoming]

The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly

Tore into the engine this evening. Pleasantly surprised to find out the guy wasn't pulling my leg: The cylinder in question is indeed in fantastic shape and there is no ridge whatsoever in the wall. I will not have to bore it out. Pictures below. The bad: The guy I bought it from, or the guy before him wasn't very attentive to keeping dirt out of the engine when he opened it up. If I wasn't already planning to rebuild it, I would be now. As you can see, I'm pretty anal when it comes to tearing down and labeling, check out the bucket of parts I got. Now that's ugly.

 

[Wyoming]

I'm pretty excited to be back at it. It will be slow going though, as I have lots of hours to work this summer. If any of you have rebuilt a 4bt and know of anything I should look out for, something not in the manual that you had to learn the hard way, please, speak up. Dou you think I should just go ahead and buy new head bolts? Or, do you think the old ones are trust worthy? Two are missing. They aren't even the bucket-o-bolts.

More later.

 

[isbj60]

Dou you think I should just go ahead and buy new head bolts? Or, do you think the old ones are trust worthy? Two are missing. They aren't even the bucket-o-bolts.

More later.

They have a length spec in the manual, as long as they meet that they can be re-used. If you are missing two, you might just buy a whole new set anyway.

 

[Wyoming]

For those of you who have been following this thread: If you look back at the top picture of post 162, at the bottom of the cylinder, at the 8 'o clock position, I believe that is a piston oil squirter! Kind of simple looking, but there it is. The part that caused me to sell the first engine and buy the second. Now I know.

 

[Wyoming]

I ordered an overhaul kit today. I've never rebuilt an engine before. I'm fairly excited to do it. I figured, make at as new as possible while it is out of the vehicle. I have to order the injectors and 4000 RPM springs from Cullman next week and find someone around here to put the springs in. Turbo next week too.

What can anyone tell me about intercoolers? Is a $100 one on e-bay worth anything? how big does it have to be? What should one cost?

 

[Wyoming]

Tore the engine down this weekend. The first picture is the only real concern. That score is after 400+ passes with the hone. It doesn't take out much material, so I'm not adverse to another 400 passes. We think it is only about 2-3 thousandths deep. I would have done more passes last night, but it was late and I was hungry.

 

[Wyoming]

The cam had a little rust on it. After some time with the parts cleaner and some steel wool, it came right back to life. I will have to replace a couple of tappets though - which means, go ahead an replace them all.

 

[Kief]

Thanks for those pics. I couldn't see my piston cooler/oiler nozzles from underneath. Now I know what to feel for..
Hones are a lot slower than one would think and I would imagine these blocks are pretty hard.

Check your head for cracks around the injector holes (and every where else of course).

 

[Wyoming]

I think what I'm pointing at in the first picture is the KDP. Someone correct me If I'm wrong. I haven't read up on what the fix is yet. The next picture is of how I zip tied the tapets, which I later removed and labeled and then decided to replace. They were $6 and change from Endurance in Nebraska (each). The tappets are going to be easiest to install before even putting in the crank. So, the zip ties will be a great way to keep them in place until the cam is installed. In the third picture you can see that the piston is attached and kept on by snap rings. Remove the snap rings and the piston comes right off the connecting rod. An overhaul kit comes with new pistons. It is nice that I didn't have to take them somewhere to be pressed on.

 

[Wyoming]

Here is a picture of the bearings from the main caps. These are fit into the block journals. You can see that one of them is different from the others. It has sides attached for some reason and goes in the journal that I'm pointing at. You would think it would go on the center journal, but that's not the case. I have no idea why for any of this. I haven't gotten to main bearings in the manual. A couple of other things you can see in the picture with my finger (now you know what I look like): First you can see the cam tappets still in place, so you can see how utterly easy it is going to be to install new ones first thing. Second, you can see those piston oilers again, this time from the bottom. The inlet for one is also right where I'm pointing. The one on my number one piston was broken. They are made of cheap plastic. I'm thinking of getting some machined out of steel or brass or something. I do not want to lose one after reassembling the engine. That's no bueno. I also don't know yet whether or not they install from the top or the bottom, but I will find out soon.

 

[Lated]

Ingenious

I'll have to add that to my bag of tricks.

 

[boots4]

Above pic for KDP: Yes that is the pin that can work itself out and cause havoc with the gear set. The fix is very simple, just make a small tab using the bolt next to the pin to keep it from coming out.

The bearing with the shoulders is your thrust bearing used to control the fore-aft movement of the crankshaft. All those bearings are in great shape.



The piston oil squirters are inserted from the journal side. They have a shoulder on them.


You might consider getting your piston and rod assemblies balanced while they are out. The deck on the block looks great too. Overall a clean engine.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Yeah x2 on getting that KDP fixed.

Here was my solution:



Its not the prettiest but it should work.

 

[Kief]

I peened the aluminum down and made an "8" shaped washer as I didn't like idea of it moving at all.

 

[Wyoming]

Great info guys. Boots doesn't say much, but when he does, I've learned to listen.

 

[Kief]

Great info guys. Boots doesn't say much, but when he does, I've learned to listen.

Yep, he's only had that thing apart a few times.

 

[Wyoming]

I only got to work on the engine on Sunday this weekend. I finished cleaning the block and started to paint parts. Since I don't have a hot tank to get the block squeeky clean, I cleaned it with parts solvent and then hosed it off. Then I dried it with rags. Amazing how water will defy gravity to stick to a block. After that, I used air to blow out all the bolt holes. There was still some grime in them (first picture). In the second picture you will see yet another picture of the piston oilers. I show another picture to illistrate what pieces of crap they are. The cooling of your pistons, and thus, the well being of your engine comes down to ten cents worth of plastic. Nice! I'm trying to talk a buddy into machining me some out of brass or something. On a side note, if you look at the second oiler from the right, that gray stuff on it is assembly grease. Not many miles on this engine. Also, if you look past the oilers at the cylinder wall you wil see areas that would not deglaze when I honed it. Can anyone tell me about this? Everyone told me it was enough honing and to build it, but an opinion from someone like Boots would be nice. Then it's on to paint. Have I told you how much I hate to paint parts? A lot! Well, I don't mind the painting, it's the prep: The sanding, the taping, the wiping with degreaser.

 

[Wyoming]

Ooooo...Pretty.

 

[Wyoming]

More pretty.