Cummins 4bt into my FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

I got 33MPG in my Honda civic the other day yea me!

Yes I have a hard time buying some of the fuel mileage claims that some folks make....even with some of these guys with the I-6 gas engine... I would think that very low 20's would be obtainable but very conservative driving.

Its sounds to me like the 4bt is a good reasonable swap.... as I've stated... I would never do a swap on a 4wd truck chasing fuel mileage, buy a civic or econo box rat trap of your choice if you want fuel mileage.

Based on what some of the guys have noted...the 4bt does get more than acceptable fuel mileage when compared to the I-6 engine and probably even performs all around better too.

Good luck with the swap...I think you have a couple of good sources and even some related engine swap threads to follow and learn from what others have done.

I do agree with the above stated fuel milage nubmers... I have an 07 2500 HD with 6.0 and that's what I get towing around 10K on flat 8.5 or so or less...and based on what i've read and what friends have related I don't dispute the other numbes either.

I like to hear mileage claims based on everyday driving..... 70 to 75 on the Hwy, 50 on the back roads....30-45 othewise, driving like you drive anything else (not like a race car) but also not like super coast mode, or never exceeding 50mph ...etc

A 4wd truck sucks on fuel milage as do the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.....thats ok with me as long as they perform.

 

[Wyoming]

Oh, lets not argue about diesel mileage. Either I do or I don't get what I want. No worries.

Cullman, I checked out the company you work for. Great place. Looks like I will be buying my injectors and governor springs from City Diesel - good prices.

I've been investigating turbos. I guess what I'm looking for is an HY35 or an H1C with a smaller exhaust housing (9cm2). I think I remembered that right. The HY35 is a wastegated turbo and the H1C is not. Both spool up quickly. The HY35 can relieve overboost and the H1C can't, but I should never get into a problem with overboost, even on the highway. Now, I just have to find the best price.

One thing I can tell you after surfing all the diesel sites and e-mailing them: the are all the same about replying to e-mail inquirys - They all suck! Haven't gotten an answer yet from anyone.

I got an engine stand this weekend from Harbor Freight for $60 dollars. It is the 1000 lb model. I couldn't have built it for that cheap. Since there are no cousins visiting this weekend, I should be able to start some minor work on the swap.

 

[cullmancruiser]

I just had our turbo guys rework my stock H1C with a 12cm turbine housing and a 2MM larger compressor wheel. I won't get a chance to install it until this weekend, but I will let you know how it works out.

Oh, lets not argue about diesel mileage. Either I do or I don't get what I want. No worries.

Cullman, I checked out the company you work for. Great place. Looks like I will be buying my injectors and governor springs from City Diesel - good prices.

I've been investigating turbos. I guess what I'm looking for is an HY35 or an H1C with a smaller exhaust housing (9cm2). I think I remembered that right. The HY35 is a wastegated turbo and the H1C is not. Both spool up quickly. The HY35 can relieve overboost and the H1C can't, but I should never get into a problem with overboost, even on the highway. Now, I just have to find the best price.

One thing I can tell you after surfing all the diesel sites and e-mailing them: the are all the same about replying to e-mail inquirys - They all suck! Haven't gotten an answer yet from anyone.

I got an engine stand this weekend from Harbor Freight for $60 dollars. It is the 1000 lb model. I couldn't have built it for that cheap. Since there are no cousins visiting this weekend, I should be able to start some minor work on the swap.

 

[Elbert]

not wanting to argue... I may have went a little overboard on expressing my view.

On to the 4bt stuff...

 

[Wyoming]

I just had our turbo guys rework my stock H1C with a 12cm turbine housing and a 2MM larger compressor wheel. I won't get a chance to install it until this weekend, but I will let you know how it works out.

Cullman, I talked to t guy this morning who is a turbo expert, and that is exactly what he recommended! And, I think that is what I will go with. Let me know as soon as you install it.

One last major part to source - the intercooler.

 

[Wyoming]

I'm still in the parts gathering phase. I just ordered straight high pressure injector lines from Haysley Machine. They will build them custom and all you have to do is bend them. Just don't make a mistake, they are $52.19 each for stock length. Thanks to Mark Nixon over at 4btswaps.com for turning me on to Haysley.

Poenician, take note of where to get the high pressure lines. I can't tell for sure from the photo (I just noticed you in the background), but it looks like one of your lines might have been damaged by the strapping holding it to the pallet. I have looked high and low for used lines and had no luck. Say, will you give me the serial number from your engine? I need the serial number from a 4bt with a p7100 to find parts for it (Now I need a fuel return line with the banjo fitting on the P7100). If you don't have a serial number, the guys at Cummins are WORTHLESS at finding parts for a project where you are changing the configuration of the engine. You would think they would say, "Oh, yeah, high pressure injection lines for a 4bt with a p7100, I know what you're ltalking about". but no, no serial number, no luck! It is very frustrating. It's probably just as well. Cummins wants $125 for the oil pick up tube. $125! I'm betting the high pressure injection lines are in the $400+ range. NFW!

After reading the turbo threads at 4btswaps and talking to a guy who knows turbos, I have decided to go with an H1C non-wastegated turbo with a 12cm2 housing. This seems to be a good place to start. I can get a new H1C from South Central Diesel in Nebraska for $478.00. I like that price.

I found Bosch injectors at City Diesel in Alabama for $55 a piece and they also have governor spring kits for the P7100 for $110 for the 4000 rpm spring. Not that I'm ever getting close to 4-grand RPMs, but it's there if I need it.

Surprisingly, NAPA can get gaskets for the 4bt, but they get them straight from Cummins. They must be made of spun gold, as Cullman would say, for what they cost. I don't even want to tell you. I've got my NAPA guy looking into aftermarket brands. I hope he finds something!

 

[The Phoenician]

Here's the serial numbers. The person in the pic is the ole lady. I was still in Iraq when the engine showed up. Thanks for the heads up on where to get the lines, that may just come in handy. Keep us updated, I plan on referencing your progress for when I get started.

 

[Wyoming]

Thanks man! I'm in business now.

 

[isbj60]

FYI, you can get a wastegated housing for the h1c. The 1st gen dodges (89-93) had a wh1c in them. 12cm housings, iirc. So going with a h1c won't box you into a corner later if you want a wastegate.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Also if you are going to be running the 4000 rpm spring you will want to upgrade your valve springs to 60lb springs or otherwise they could start to float when you rev that high.

 

[cullmancruiser]

Cullman, I talked to t guy this morning who is a turbo expert, and that is exactly what he recommended! And, I think that is what I will go with. Let me know as soon as you install it.

One last major part to source - the intercooler.

Got my turbo installed this morning. This is a fantastic upgrade. Before, the maximum boost I could get was 18 PSI and it was much slower to spool up. On my test drive this morning I got to 27 PSI when I hammered it. It spools up much faster so the seat of the pants feel is way better than before. Hill climbing ability was good before, but now it's absolutely effortless. I also have less smoke now and my EGT has dropped over 100 degrees. I would classify this upgrade as a must-do.

 

[Wyoming]

Okay, what the heck are "piston oil squirters"? A guy over at 4btswaps said this, "Make sure your engine has the piston oil squirters". Never even heard of them to this point. He says 4bts with turbos have them and he is not sure if the non-turbo engines have them. Anybody know?

I'm thinking every engine has them after tooking at the service manual.

 

[Elbert]

from what I know these are nozzles built into some turbo engine blocks that squirt oil on the piston to help cool the pistons....?

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?2287-Piston-oil-cooler-nozzles....


google this: piston cooler nozzle ........................there is a site with a bunch of pics

 

[cullmancruiser]

Okay, what the heck are "piston oil squirters"? A guy over at 4btswaps said this, "Make sure your engine has the piston oil squirters". Never even heard of them to this point. He says 4bts with turbos have them and he is not sure if the non-turbo engines have them. Any body know?

They are small spray nozzles that squirt engine oil on the bottoms of the pistons to help keep them cool. Whether the non-turbo engines have them or not is something I don't know. If your engine doesn't have them I would definitely add them.
One thing to keep in mind on these engines is don't use cheap oil filters. The oil pressure in these engines spike pretty high on initial start-up and some cheaper filters have been known to have parts of the filter media blow out and get caught in the piston squirters, plugging them up and causing piston failure. Use a good filter like Wix, Purolator, Fleetguard, or OEM Cummins. Avoid Wal-Mart specials like Fram or the no-name brands.

 

[Wyoming]

I guess I'll have to check for the piston oilers when I have the oil pan off. If I don't have them, then I'm sure they're expensive.

Here is what I did with my free time on Saturday. First I mounted my engine on my new, $60 engine stand from Harbor Freight. It is the 1000 lb model, but I wouldn't want to put that much on it. It sure did a lot of groaning and flexing when I put the weight on. Then, using the forklift, I put it out in the yard and power washed it. I'm still going to have to go after it with a little brush when I get the parts off, though.

Then I just puttered around removing a couple of parts and taking measurements and what-not.

Speaking of parts off it - Does anyone know if the Lucas/Delphi injection pump on it is worth anything? Who would want it? Also, I will be selling the high pressure fuel injection lines. These may or may not work with a Bosch VE.

Cullman, what did you say that thing was in front of the steering pump, a vacuum pump? What the heck does it do?

 

[Wyoming]

Today, I had to do something, and that was paint the injection pump. You'll notice by the pictures, I chose Pontiac blue for the color of the engine. I was going to go with Case yellow or Cat yellow, but they didn't have any at NAPA and it was time to do somehting. So, I had a little help in my decision. I like it though. A lot.

Took it apart and primered the pieces and the pump and then...Pontiac blue.

 

[Wyoming]

Moore pictures.

 

[Kief]

device in front of PS is a vac. pump which allows install into a vehicle with a vacuum booster on the brakes and whatever else uses vacuum vs. using an electric unit.

 

[The Phoenician]

Some good progress, will be watching even more closely.

 

[cullmancruiser]

The vacuum pump is exactly what Keif said it is for. On my rig it also provides vacuum for the transfer case shifter. Diesel engines have no vacuum in the intake manifold, in fact they will happily run with no intake manifold at all.
Nice shop you have there! I'm getting a serious case of shop envy. Is that a Bridgeport knee mill I spotted in the background? That's going to be seriously handy when you have to start fabbing brackets and what-not. If I wasn't a machinist and didn't know how to weld, I don't know if I would have attempted my swap.