cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation

[whitey45]

And the right rear is your drive wheel taking most of the torque.

 

[cult45]

Yeah it's not a HP problem. I'm going for bearing failure and/or faulty axle. And based on the fact that the truck ain't exactly doing the Cape run every week, and that a stock SF 3.70 was enough for Mr. T until 1977, and I'll be redoing bearings and seals - I'm just going to go stock refurb. No FF.

 

[sneaky]

Damn, can't you keep this thing together for more than a few weeks without breaking it !
Out of round, rock hard tyres may also have contributed.

 

[Indestructible 47]

ouch! it's not a patrol is it? passenger rear wheel?

 

[cult45]

Damn, can't you keep this thing together for more than a few weeks without breaking it !
Out of round, rock hard tyres may also have contributed.

The way I see it is the truck merely keeps presenting opportunities to right mechanical wrongs.

ouch! it's not a patrol is it? passenger rear wheel?

D/S mate.

 

[Indestructible 47]

The way I see it is the truck merely keeps presenting opportunities to right mechanical wrongs.



D/S mate.

haha

 

[cult45]

She's all back together! Many thanks to catskinner for his usual phone advice, west for his phone advice and Shane [and Andy] down at the Australian 40 Series Landcruisers shed and his plentiful supply of parts, expertise and beer. After it happened I got it towed there cause he's got flat ground - and axles. Basically ripped in, pulled everything down, found a new axle, replaced the removable race, replaced wheel bearings and axles seals both sides and reassembled. I've lost some brake pedal feel, actually I've lost almost all brake pedal feel haha, so I'll rip in this weekend and have a gander. I also want to check everything again after my 5 min drive home. Can't be too careful with something like this.

Short side now short[er]! Still at a loss as to how this happened, it's like 2" thick and the bearing was fine.

 

[sneaky]

I think you're damn lucky it didn't happen coming back from the Park last weekend, that could have been a scary experience.

It looks like its been heat treated or experience a heat build up in the housing. Good to hear its all back together.

 

[cult45]

I think you're damn lucky it didn't happen coming back from the Park last weekend, that could have been a scary experience.

It looks like its been heat treated or experience a heat build up in the housing. Good to hear its all back together.

We were discussing that yesterday. I think given the factory ROPS in a 45 I'd probably dead or worse. Some of those back straights saw me doing $1.10! Cat says those marks are heat treating by Mr. T. How's your axle swap going?

 

[sneaky]

No progress. Spent last pay checks parts budget on getting stickers printed, and spent last weekend in Melbourne.

Will start ordering parts next week hopefully.

 

[cult45]

No progress. Spent last pay checks parts budget on getting stickers printed, and spent last weekend in Melbourne.

Will start ordering parts next week hopefully.

Cool man, assembly is half the fun!

Quick question: to convert my single-circuit brakes to dual. The current setup runs a single line from the master, through the remote booster and down to the single tee on the chassis. Could I keep my master and remote booster, then make a tee from the outlet on the booster down to a factory dual-circuit tee on the chassis? Or do you need a dual-circuit master and booster?

Factory single-circuit tee on chassis:

Factory single-circuit master and aftermarket remote booster:

 

[landcrusher909]

My Single Circuit Brake UpGrade

 

[cult45]

My Single Circuit Brake UpGrade

Thanks Rob T! Do you have to upgrade the axles to axles from a dual circuit truck?

 

[landcrusher909]

I did the front because i upgrades to disk brakes and the old axle had 9mm brake lines, If your running 10mm lines your OK

 

[cult45]

I did the front because i upgrades to disk brakes and the old axle had 9mm brake lines, If your running 10mm lines your OK

I'm a little confused mate. The factory lines on my 1970 have 9mm fittings, but from 1971 onwards they use 10mm fittings. So I would have to change all my brake hard lines and flex lines to suit the later type fittings just to keep the drums I fully rebuilt?

 

[sneaky]

Time to go to discs. All the cool kids are doing it.

 

[Michael B]

I second that!

 

[cult45]

I have greater financial priorities than discs. The drums work great, even as a single circuit. I'm just upgrading for safety.

So - can anyone definitively say that I can retain my fully rebuilt drum brakes [attached to my fully rebuilt front knuckles and now rekitted rear axle] and simply run a dual circuit master and tee piece?

 

[ozcrusier]

The reason for dual circuit master is to retain front or rear brakes so they got to be independent from one to the other.

 

[cult45]

The reason for dual circuit master is to retain front or rear brakes so they got to be independent from one to the other.

Yeah mate, understood. Where I'm at is $1100 worth of brakes and 20/20 hindsight. I want to retain the brakes/axles but run a dual circuit master and tee.