Cruiser Noob = Gasket Question (1 Viewer)

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Jul 7, 2013
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Location
Lititz, PA
Just received a 94 FZJ80 with 182,899. Total stock with ABS option.

It came off of Long Island and is near perfect rust wise. Runs strong and looks good. But here are a few known issues.

#1 It is quite clear that the valve cover gasket needs replaced and there is oil through out the engine and underneath. I can't quite tell if all the oil is from this one area but is degreasing the first step.

#2 CEL is on. All my kings horses (mechanics here at work) tried to jump the OBD1 to read the code but it would not flash but shined bright. We disconnected the battery for quite some time; CEL still came on. Pulled the EFI fuse for 15 minutes; CEL still came on.

Thoughts on either #1 or #2.

Finally all of the dome, cargo and "personal" lights are not working along with the sunroof being inoperable. I searched high and low for a fuse that would control those but no luck. I downloaded the FSM for the 94 and read the owners manual but nothing points to fuses.

Your expert knowledge is appreciated.
 
1: VC leakage is not uncommon at that mileage. Especially toward the back. There are a few other common culprits.

Degreasing is a good first step but don't go crazy with the water. waterproof connectors might be less waterproof after 20 years.

if/when you do the valve cover, you also need all 6 spark plug seals and an intake plenum gasket set (pair of 2).

And you should change the fuel filter and refresh some vacuum lines while you have the intake off. If it's going to be more than one day, this is not a bad time to send your injectors out to be professionally cleaned and bench tested and get new o-rings.

2: Probably you are jumpering the wrong spots on the diagnostic header? Or not using heavy enough wire?
 
For your dome lights, wiggle the courtesy switch in the door jamb, it may be as simple as that . The contacts get dirty/corroded and work intermittently or not at all.
I just replaced all four of mine, they're only about $20 each. It's a half :banana: job!
Are you going to wheel this thing, or more of a DD?
 
Thank you both.

On the degrease are there any areas to stay away or be careful? What product do you suggest to complete the job right?

On the code reading, we used a heavy gauge paper clip. Do you really stick it down in there or just make contact?

I do plan to get it muddy soon but need to do some major PM, base lining, tires will be sooner than later for PA inspection.
 
If you remove the intake, also replace the water bypass hose that connects the throttle body to the head.
 
1: VC leakage is not uncommon at that mileage. Especially toward the back. There are a few other common culprits.

Degreasing is a good first step but don't go crazy with the water. waterproof connectors might be less waterproof after 20 years.

if/when you do the valve cover, you also need all 6 spark plug seals and an intake plenum gasket set (pair of 2).

And you should change the fuel filter and refresh some vacuum lines while you have the intake off. If it's going to be more than one day, this is not a bad time to send your injectors out to be professionally cleaned and bench tested and get new o-rings.

2: Probably you are jumpering the wrong spots on the diagnostic header? Or not using heavy enough wire?


Why do you say the intake plenum gaskets need to be replaced? I don't see a reason for it to come apart.


Thank you both.

On the degrease are there any areas to stay away or be careful? What product do you suggest to complete the job right?

On the code reading, we used a heavy gauge paper clip. Do you really stick it down in there or just make contact?

I do plan to get it muddy soon but need to do some major PM, base lining, tires will be sooner than later for PA inspection.

When I pressure wash I cover the Dizzy with a bag just to keep water away from it. Also do it while the truck is running. I made the mistake one time of doing neither of these things and my truck wouldn't start. Then when it did 2 cylinders were misfiring. That day sucked.
 
So I finally got the jump correct. My diagnostic plug thingy layout was a bit different than what was on the forums. In other words I found my cheater glasses and was able to read the sticker inside the cap. At 43, I need a new set of eyes.

It was . . . ding ding #21 the O2 sensors. So those will be swapped out this weekend.

So a total newbie question which I should just do a search on it but I shall remain humble and ask it here. . . . What is the "Dizzy"???
 
Distributer.

Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
So I finally got the jump correct. My diagnostic plug thingy layout was a bit different than what was on the forums. In other words I found my cheater glasses and was able to read the sticker inside the cap. At 43, I need a new set of eyes.

It was . . . ding ding #21 the O2 sensors. So those will be swapped out this weekend.

So a total newbie question which I should just do a search on it but I shall remain humble and ask it here. . . . What is the "Dizzy"???

As a fellow '94 cruiser owner, I weep for you.

93/94 have different o2 sensors than any other toyota. Limited demand means they are damn expensive.

There are aftermarket replacements but nobody seems to be around to brag that they kept working longer than a year or two. Very few people report success past the initial install. Bosch is a dirty word around here. NGK may be a safer bet or not.

By the time you get yours off (you will need penetrating oil, lots of penetrating oil) you won't want to ever mess with them again.

Denso is the OE manufacturer. The Toyota kit comes with both sensors, hardware, gaskets. I'm not sure if the Denso part number does too.

Expect to spend more than $200.

So sorry.

there's a chance that the wire harness is just wrecked, so inspect the connectors and wires. I'd had some real cowboys under my truck. 'course, I needed to replace them anyway after repairing the wiring.
 
Why do you say the intake plenum gaskets need to be replaced? I don't see a reason for it to come apart.

I admit my valve cover is still on the to-do list. taking off the throttle body was recommended by cruiser dan. I figured I'd clean it while it's off.

Maybe this is one of those things where removing the tb half of the intake is just easier.
 
Thank you Slim. I called Beno at his new home and bought the Toyota kit for $217 plus $5 shipping. As soon as I said 1994 with a #21 code he started rattling of that part number.
 
Here's some tips as I just had identical valve cover gasket leak:
Buy replacement hoses for the 2 hoses on Valve Cover, Get a new PCV valve and gasket and do it also. I ruined them removing them....they are old and cracking on ends....
A seal puller is the easiest way I found to remove Spark Plug gaskets in valve cover.
A flex socket is the ticket for removing rear valve cover bolts.
If your unsure of age of plugs, wires and cap & rotor, do them now. I used NGK plug wires (Ebay or Rock Auto). Have Dan send you plugs they are about $2 each or $12....
Degrease after it's changed...using simple green, Purple Power or last resort Brake Cleaner
My top end was super clean, hope you find the same...
 
Forgot....Clean the throttle body real good, it was causing my throttle to be sticky. Unbolt it, tip it down and spray it clean with Carb cleaner. Make sure you put in new metal gasket that Dan will supply. Easy to remove and put back on....take your time, as they say "Act in Haste, Repent at your Leisure"
 
I admit my valve cover is still on the to-do list. taking off the throttle body was recommended by cruiser dan. I figured I'd clean it while it's off.

Maybe this is one of those things where removing the tb half of the intake is just easier.

The throttle body is held on with 4 bolts and it's really easy to remove. The intake plenum is a bitch. I did it twice in 2 weeks trying to solve a 0401 code. EGR VSV was the culprit. I wouldn't take that thing apart unless absolutely needed.
 
The throttle body is held on with 4 bolts and it's really easy to remove. The intake plenum is a bitch. I did it twice in 2 weeks trying to solve a 0401 code. EGR VSV was the culprit. I wouldn't take that thing apart unless absolutely needed.

It doesn't *look hard. What makes it hard?

Anyway, for posterity, part numbers:

11213-66021 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
11193-15010 GASKET, SPARK PLUG TUBE (get six)
22271-66010 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY

And if you decide to take the intake plenum off:

17171-66010 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD (front)
17179-66010 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD (rear)

While you're in there:

23300-69045 FILTER ASSY, FUEL ($30?!) Wix 33563 is $16 on amazon.

Also the vacuum lines are iirc 3.5mm? or are they 3mm. Bah. someone here has a part number for about 7 feet of toyota vac line. I used silicone.

I had a part number for FIPG but sticker shock sent me back to Permatex Gasket Maker RTV.
 
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It doesn't *look hard. What makes it hard? Anyway, for posterity, part numbers: 11213-66021 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 11193-15010 GASKET, SPARK PLUG TUBE (get six) 22271-66010 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY And if you decide to take the intake plenum off: 17171-66010 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD (front) 17179-66010 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD (rear) While you're in there: 23300-69045 FILTER ASSY, FUEL ($30?!) Wix 33563 is $16 on amazon. Also the vacuum lines are iirc 3.5mm? or are they 3mm. Bah. someone here has a part number for about 7 feet of toyota vac line. I used silicone. I had a part number for FIPG but sticker shock sent me back to Permatex Gasket Maker RTV.


The bottom bolts are a pain to get to. Need some extensions long arms and swivels. I guess it's not really that hard it's just a PITA. I'm also under the impression that if you don't have to something then don't do it. If you plan to change the fuel filter then by all means do it. But to change the valve cover gasket like stated in the OP it doesn't need to come off. If you have a reason to be in there then by all means take the time and do it. But while it's off I'd check it really well for carbon buildup. May be able to prevent a 0401 (or similar for none odb2) in the future.

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