Crater Lake, Oregon vacation property build thread - BASE CAMP ⛺️ (4 Viewers)

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Our installer told us to put the stove near an outside wall to reduce the amount of very expensive pipe needed.
Mo’ pipe inside, mo’ heat! I’m. Not a stove pipe expert but the class A is what is insulated and goes through the roof. The stove pipe from the Class A to the stove is not as expensive and allows the heat that goes out the chimney to exit heating the house.
 
Our installer told us to put the stove near an outside wall to reduce the amount of very expensive pipe needed.

It's expensive pipe but it will perform much better inside of the house or attic where it can stay warm. A cold chimney won't draft as well and ends up with a lot more creosote.
 
I was just looking at their free plans.

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Once I have a building permit and done the county allows buildings up to 400 sq ft without a building permit. I’d like to build a couple of these for people… mud members on here to stay in😆. This whole dilemma started due to pot growers finding vacant land and getting power to the site and starting pot grows. Klamath County is a large county so even though our area is too cold they changed the rules that affected the entire county. Only 100 sq ft buildings and 100 amps unless you get a building permit.
 
Grandad built a wood burning furnace first for the shop at their place in Powell Butte, and then one for the house. The shop heater was two thick walled 55 gal. drums laid on their side. The lower drum was cut on one end for the door and on the side of the other end for the flue. The second drum was stacked above it with about 1' gap. It's flue-in and flue-out holes aligned, but there was an internal baffle fitted from the rear that ran ~3/4" of the length of the drum. I can recall a couple of times where the heat that thing put out made that area it was in unapproachable.

The second was an all steel thin plate weldment (mostly 3/16") that used the same baffle principle, but in one enclosure. It would heat the whole 2k sqft house and it's 2k sqft basement when really going and from lodge-pole pine and the occasional Juniper it generated only fine ash. Wish that I had a picture of it.

Both drafted very well. Seems to me that something similar should be employed with any wood heating system. Any heat escaping out the chimney beyond that needed to maintain the draft is wasted heat.
 
Grandad built a wood burning furnace first for the shop at their place in Powell Butte, and then one for the house. The shop heater was two thick walled 55 gal. drums laid on their side. The lower drum was cut on one end for the door and on the side of the other end for the flue. The second drum was stacked above it with about 1' gap. It's flue-in and flue-out holes aligned, but there was an internal baffle fitted from the rear that ran ~3/4" of the length of the drum. I can recall a couple of times where the heat that thing put out made that area it was in unapproachable.

The second was an all steel thin plate weldment (mostly 3/16") that used the same baffle principle, but in one enclosure. It would heat the whole 2k sqft house and it's 2k sqft basement when really going and from lodge-pole pine and the occasional Juniper it generated only fine ash. Wish that I had a picture of it.

Both drafted very well. Seems to me that something similar should be employed with any wood heating system. Any heat escaping out the chimney beyond that needed to maintain the draft is wasted heat.
It sounds like a early version of the modern wood stoves. The baffle on the top has a secondary air inlet and once it gets up to temp the 1300F secondary air hits the smoke from the primary burn, then reburns the smoke.

The end result is a cleaner burn, less wood use, extra heat, and clean glass on the stove.

The chimneys on my wood stoves output clear "smoke'" like the exhaust of a car.
 
The shop stove grandad built was made about 1978 or 1979l, and was based on a similar stove built about 1967 by Bob McCaslin. No idea if the design was his or not.
 
Mo’ pipe inside, mo’ heat! I’m. Not a stove pipe expert but the class A is what is insulated and goes through the roof. The stove pipe from the Class A to the stove is not as expensive and allows the heat that goes out the chimney to exit heating the house.

He was referring to how much expensive pipe is needed to get through the attic. Otherwise, yeah.
 
Our installer told us to put the stove near an outside wall to reduce the amount of very expensive pipe needed.
It gets expensive when the snow sliding off the roof wipes off the expensive pipe. Put the stove in the middle!!!!! And even with 2 crickets my pipe still got wiped off.
 
Okay, I went and looked.

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These weren’t called crickets, but crickets were only shown with chimneys.
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As far as chimney's go my approach would be to stay with a stove that can work well with 6" pipe if such a stove will effectively heat your space. My shop is 7K sq ft and I rely on a 330k BTU waste oil furnace to heat it plus backup with a big old Frontier wood stove that can swallow a 48" long round. Both heat sources use 8" pipe and boy does 8" triple wall stainless take a bite out of your wallet. Plus nobody has it so it has to be special ordered in. I know I spent $1000 on each chimney just where it goes through the roof.

6" chimney for the win if you can use it.
 
This system has really grabbed my attention!
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Honestly I'd skip the wood furnace, and get one or two nice wood stoves and a ductless heat pump, or a main wood stove and a smaller propane fireplace for the bedroom in the back of the house.

In the shoulder season it's often too warm to fire up the stove so the heat pump comes in handy to take the chill off.

When it's cold a good size stove plus a fan will heat the whole place easily.

I've never used a wood boiler but have heard they use a TON of wood and make a lot of smoke since it's not an efficient burn.
 
Honestly I'd skip the wood furnace, and get one or two nice wood stoves and a ductless heat pump, or a main wood stove and a smaller propane fireplace for the bedroom in the back of the house.

In the shoulder season it's often too warm to fire up the stove so the heat pump comes in handy to take the chill off.

When it's cold a good size stove plus a fan will heat the whole place easily.

I've never used a wood boiler but have heard they use a TON of wood and make a lot of smoke since it's not an efficient burn.
My buddy Matt does HVAC in Central Oregon and said these work amazingly and with all the wood I’ve got that would be awesome. If you watch the video you can see how efficiently it burns wood. I’d still keep a wood stove but this could be a great main heat source. Not only does it heat the house but also heat your water.
 
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Latest 00Z GFS weather model snowfall map, a snow lovers dream!!! The Crater Lake property and my house near Mt. Hood get buried. This is a computer model but even the European model is showing this trend.
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Approximate locations of my house and property.
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It gets expensive when the snow sliding off the roof wipes off the expensive pipe. Put the stove in the middle!!!!! And even with 2 crickets my pipe still got wiped off.
My wood stove at my house is near the center with Chinmey pipe close to the ridge so there’s literally no snow that can build up above it to take out the stove pipe. This is my favorite picture of my house in its winter wonderland. My little cabin in the woods.
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A mountain neighbor took this two days ago, he’s up the hill from our place. So we’re in similar situations. I won’t try to get anything done in those conditions, except burning piles.

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A roo in it's natural habitat!! 😍
 

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