Crank no start - Not Immobilizer - Fuse Box

[Ninja Cruiser100]

Yesterday i received the fuse box. It was in excellent condition from a 170k mile LX from CT. Was pretty easy to swap it out.

As soon as I turned the key on, the CEL was gone (previous P1600) and when I cranked it over it started immediately. I even held the key on for a bit too long out of habit. Going to drive it a couple days to make sure it's good, but with the CEL going off and the quick start, I think this may be the culprit.

I love when a plan comes together...and works.

 

[2002TLCyes]

Really appreciate documenting this unfortunate struggle so we could all potentially benefit from this experience.

How do you explain the fuse box causing this? It obviously did, but which part failed? I had crank no starts a few times, but when I looked it up on this forum, I read that the one immobilizer fuse gets crusty and doesn't quite conduct. Is there no way to fix a crusty fuse box besides replacing it?

 

[drjman]

Really appreciate documenting this unfortunate struggle so we could all potentially benefit from this experience.

How do you explain the fuse box causing this? It obviously did, but which part failed? I had crank no starts a few times, but when I looked it up on this forum, I read that the one immobilizer fuse gets crusty and doesn't quite conduct. Is there no way to fix a crusty fuse box beside replacing it?

I tried pulling the old box apart and most things looked ok, from what I could get to. I stopped when I couldn't tolerate any more cuts on my arms.

My guess is that since the EFI relay controls both the EFI and fuel pump...it had to be related. On the new 100 series versions, the fuse box is much different and has a separate fuel pump relay. Sounds like the engineers realized having that many things on one relay wasn't a great idea.

On most of the immobilizer threads, only one side of the 20A fuse was degraded. On my fuse box, both fuse pin holes were degraded and I had to wire an inline fuse directly to the battery and to the EFI relay to make it work.

I really don't think there's a way to fix a crusty fuse box. Once I had it apart, those connectors inside practically fall out. I guess they COULD be replaced, but it was impossible to take the box apart without breaking it.

I was dreading buying a new box (~$600 for my manufacture date) and was pushing it as far as it could go. When I found the used box for $100 shipped, I had to try it. I knew it needed to be replaced and I was getting other power related CEL codes (P1600 - inadequate power to ECU), so I went for it.

It now starts up quick, every time and I know it's in my head, but it feels like it's just running better. The A/C seems to be stronger as well.

 

[drjman]

Almost a week since the fix and not a single hesitation during start ups.

 

[White Stripe]

I tried pulling the old box apart and most things looked ok, from what I could get to. I stopped when I couldn't tolerate any more cuts on my arms.

My guess is that since the EFI relay controls both the EFI and fuel pump...it had to be related. On the new 100 series versions, the fuse box is much different and has a separate fuel pump relay. Sounds like the engineers realized having that many things on one relay wasn't a great idea.

On most of the immobilizer threads, only one side of the 20A fuse was degraded. On my fuse box, both fuse pin holes were degraded and I had to wire an inline fuse directly to the battery and to the EFI relay to make it work.

I really don't think there's a way to fix a crusty fuse box. Once I had it apart, those connectors inside practically fall out. I guess they COULD be replaced, but it was impossible to take the box apart without breaking it.

I was dreading buying a new box (~$600 for my manufacture date) and was pushing it as far as it could go. When I found the used box for $100 shipped, I had to try it. I knew it needed to be replaced and I was getting other power related CEL codes (P1600 - inadequate power to ECU), so I went for it.

It now starts up quick, every time and I know it's in my head, but it feels like it's just running better. The A/C seems to be stronger as well.

On my 80 series I was able to add and remove pins in the factory fuse box. Not sure if the 100 series is different.

 

[drjman]

On my 80 series I was able to add and remove pins in the factory fuse box. Not sure if the 100 series is different.

The “pins” are actually very similar to the female spade connector. If there was a way to properly disassemble the box, it could be done.
Here’s the inside:

 

[DubYoda]

I hope someone sees this thread resurrection comment question.

So has it been established that the fuel pump on 98/99 LC's do in fact pump fuel when in the ON position? If not does that mean the EFI fuse is likely the issue? Mine will turn over but won't start. I've checked everything and am grasping at any last items before letting a Toyota pro rake me over the coals financially.

 

[DMX84]

You should be able to crack a fitting on the fuel line and wrap a rag around it while someone tries to start it. FWIW the fuel pump is easily accessed under the middle seat and you can verify power is there if no fuel is lowing with the above method.

I hope someone sees this thread resurrection comment question.

So has it been established that the fuel pump on 98/99 LC's do in fact pump fuel when in the ON position? If not does that mean the EFI fuse is likely the issue? Mine will turn over but won't start. I've checked everything and am grasping at any last items before letting a Toyota pro rake me over the coals financially.

Search my name to find more info on the fuel pump.

 

[2001LC]

I hope someone sees this thread resurrection comment question.

So has it been established that the fuel pump on 98/99 LC's do in fact pump fuel when in the ON position? If not does that mean the EFI fuse is likely the issue? Mine will turn over but won't start. I've checked everything and am grasping at any last items before letting a Toyota pro rake me over the coals financially.

No turning IG switch to ON does not run fuel pump. You must have engine cranking or running with IG switch to start or ON.