Cracked my distributor

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Threads
5
Messages
29
Location
Tremonton, UT
I am doing the HG on my 94 and ran into a problem getting the distributor out. I removed the bolt through the elongated slot and thought it was a little weird when I wasn't able to rotate the distributor or pull it straight out. I sprayed PB Blaster on the mating surface between the head and the distributor and on the distributor shaft that goes through the wall of the head. It didn't seem to help the distributor rotate or come out of the head. I started tapping the back of the distributor housing with a hammer and brass drift and was able to get it to move about 3/8 in. before the distributor housing cracked:mad:.

A couple of questions:
1. Why would it be so difficult to get the distributor out in the first place?
2. How do I get it out now that it's broken?
3. Will the distributors from 95-97 trucks work on my 94? (I'm pretty sure they will but want to be safe if I get a used one.)
4. My local dealership just quoted me 527 for a new one:eek:.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Neal
DIST1S.webp
 
strange should have pulled right out :hhmm:
doesn't surprise me that it broke from hitting on it tho
i may have a spear dizzy i can send you I will have to check the shop tomorrow to see if i have it
-Nat
 
I had to pull the dizzy when I replaced my pushrod cover gasket, it was horrible. I pulled and pulled, sprayed and pulled, twisted and also used a hammer to lightly tap, all hunched over in the engine bay while standing on the front clip. It took probably 2 hours maybe more, and seemed so ridiculous. After 17 years I think the o-ring just locks in place. Once I got a tiny amount of upward movement, I went back down and then up over and over till finally it slid right out, but what an ordeal.
 
You can buy a new replacement housing (with the signal generators, shaft and gear) for less than half the cost of the distributor. I stock them.
 
Once again Dan comes through and offers to help the common man out with some serious savings!

That seems strange that it would be so difficult to pull out. I changed the o-ring in mine just about three weeks ago and mine came right out. 187K on it at that time and she slipped right out.
 
strange should have pulled right out

That's what I thought too:frown:. Nat, I may need your spare. I have been looking around for a used one. Let me know if you come across it.

After 17 years I think the o-ring just locks in place

Tenzig, I made a little progress tonight and was able to get to the o-ring. It was very brittle. It's still not out though:crybaby:. I'll try again tomorrow. I probably should have been more patient but i was making no progress untill I started hitting.

You can buy a new replacement housing (with the signal generators, shaft and gear) for less than half the cost of the distributor. I stock them.

Dan, thanks for the information. If it has the shaft etc. what is missing? The internal electronics and connector:hhmm:? Anyway, I'll be calling you in the next couple days for a "Valve Grind Kit" (I believe) for all the gaskets I will need. I can ask more questions then.

Thanks for all the help so far. If anyone else has ideas to get the distributor the rest of the way out, I'm all ears! At least in the mean time I can continue the disassembly process for the HG.
 
The difference between buying a housing and a complete distributor is the distributor comes with a cap, rotor and cap-to-housing gasket. The housing lists for $248.61 versus $527.91 for the distributor.

So the cap, rotor and gasket cost a total of $279.30 if you buy them as part of the distributor.

You can buy them individually for $26.39.


:lol:
 
your o-ring must have fused with the block and distributor making it hard to move
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom