Couple of ?'s-(sensor, CE light)

[CruisinGA]

[quote author=Rogue link=board=2;threadid=1587;start=0#msg27328 date=1058403923]
How are you gonna sit for two weeks? Ouch!
[/quote]
Ok I was off about...2 weeks. The guy called me back today, told me that he was afraid of the check engine light intermmittant problem causing his price to go down, so he took it to a Toyo Ste-dealer here in the ATL and had them check it out. They said it was the "Water Temp Sensor", he said about $210 dollars. That was supposedly the check engine light problem. He also said he will meet me halfway at $9.8k
2 questions:
Does his whole $210 water sensor thing check out? I fail to see how that could make the check engine light come on....
How does 9.5k sound for the 'Cruiser I've been talkin about?
Thanks guys for answering all my questions, I just want to be sure I get the right 80.

 

[Gumby]

The water temp sensor does approximately the same thing as a choke on a carbed car. It tells the computer the engine is cold so the computer enriches the mixture. When the car warms up, the fuel mixture goes leaner. If the engine gets very hot, the ECM richens a little, cuts back the timing and on some newer cars shuts off cylinders to get the temps down and prevent pinging.
If it goes bad, it usually fails cold and the car runs way too rich causing emmisions and drivability problems. This makes the light go on.
$210 is a lot more than the part costs, but not more than you might get charged to find the problem and have it repared.
I forget the year of the 80 you are looking at, but under $10 for a 93+ is good, over $10 for a 91-2 is bad.

 

[CruisinGA]

What I don't understand is how this could intermittantly fail causing the check engine light. ???
Its a 94 w/ locks and 183k miles. Immaculate condition, with front axle service performed and all the other good stuff. I'm thinking by this sunday I may have myself a locked 80 for $9500

 

[Gumby]

If the computer sees a low signal from the engine coolant temp sender when it knows the engine is warm (running time, VSS, O2 signal etc.) it will trip a light. It will also look at the air intake sensor at initial start up and it better match the ECT (engine coolant temp) within reason. ECT is very important. The computer monitors it closely and will light the light if it sees a problem.
The intermittant scares me a little. They tend to fail completely. It's also hard to make sure you've fixed an intermittant problem. It might have a wiring harness problem. It really depends on how long it took to turn on before and how long it's been off since the repair.
The guy seems honest enough. He told you about it and, at least in all the states I have lived in, he doesn't have to tell you anything except if the mileage is correct.

 

[CruisinGA]

Ok time to throw in another twist:
I like this guy selling the '94 I've been talking about, he seems to be honest, knows what hes talkin about, and took very good care of his 80.
Today my dad found a '93 with 70k less miles and difflocks, asking 9k. However, This guy doesn't know anything about it (didn't know what difflocks are), and he bought it from an auction, which is pretty sketchy.
My options are:
200k miles, very good service history about $9.5 k
114k miles, no service, ownership history $9k
This brings up the whole LC miles vs service talk.
I'm sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to be sure I get the right one.

 

[Gumby]

Man that sure does throw a whole different perspective on it. That's a really tough call. I can't say without looking at the truck and the service history on both. I can say I turned down a lot of 80s that were not taken care of before I found mine, but that's a lot less miles for LESS money.

Good luck.

 

[Jon916996748]

Well I know this sounds kinda cold but what you might try doing is telling the guy that has 184k miles about the other one. Tell him that you ahve another option and that if he lowers his price down like 250, you'd take it. YOud be getting a good 80 with good history. I like to know what I'm buying. Thats what I would do atleast. Tell the guy about the other 80 and see if it helps. For all you konw the auction 80 could have Coloumbian coke hidden in the door panels. AIf that were the case you could sell it, and pimp out your 80. I would try talking down Honest guy.

Edit: CruisenGA I love the little thing "You konw your in georgia when". It also applys to South Carolina. http://www.flamingsword.com/knowfromgeorgia.htm

 

[firetruck41]

FWIW I am have a 92 BMW which came from a FL auction prior to PO, not happy with it for that reason, always questions in the back of my mind, and it needed alot of work to get in good shape (I think parts deteriorated due to sitting, ie. cooling system stuff), found evidence of paint work, it was a really low miles vehicle too. Wouldn't do it again, unless it was a spectacular deal.

 

[CruisinGA]

Jon-When the owner of the second 80 told me that he bought it from an auction that made me think of doing what you just said. Get the guy with the better taken care of 80 to meet the other guys price. Knowing the quality of a Toyota, I think I would rather have the one with higher miles and the very good service history for just a little bit more. The guy selling the other one is oriental and its sometimes not easy to understand him, and hes not very talkative. I would really like a lot of input and opinions. Cdan, B, Christo? anyone?

 

[BigMac]

CruisinGA -
At an absolute minimum, before considering an auction vehicle, get a CARFAX history. I recommend checking CARFAX on any used vehicle, even with a "known" history, but when an auction is in play, it is mandatory, IMHO. There was an excellent earlier thread on which states are better than others for used cars, taking climate and title "washing" laws into account.
Good luck and be really careful, BigMac

 

[landtank]

The low mileage know nothing probably hasn't had the axle done and at 114k you're pretty close to disaster. So a axle rebuild imediately is probably in order. Figure $1000.00 for that on top of the price.

 

[thorvald]

get the 94, even at 9,800 id say its a better deal. knowing he took care of it makes it worth the extra id say. do a carfax on it too though, just to back up that hes the only owner.

 

[cruiserman]

[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=2;threadid=3741;start=0#msg27541 date=1058491991]
Ok time to throw in another twist:
I like this guy selling the '94 I've been talking about, he seems to be honest, knows what hes talkin about, and took very good care of his 80.
Today my dad found a '93 with 70k less miles and difflocks, asking 9k. However, This guy doesn't know anything about it (didn't know what difflocks are), and he bought it from an auction, which is pretty sketchy.
My options are:
200k miles, very good service history about $9.5 k
114k miles, no service, ownership history $9k
This brings up the whole LC miles vs service talk.
I'm sorry for asking so many questions, I just want to be sure I get the right one.
[/quote]

Easy call. Lower miles wins the day. 200k miles is a lot, and you'll soon be replacing parts on that rig.

 

[CruisinGA]

I'll try a carfax on all of them and see what I get. And go from there.