couple a/c questions (1 Viewer)

[sean2202]

OK so my A/C has not worked since I bought my cruiser in December. Figuring I had a rear leak from reading other posts I tracked it down to two fittings that were cracked in the rear high pressure line by the rear axle. I found the post on the airsept repair but was wondering if anyone has ever used brake line compression fittings and if they would work on the high pressure 5/16 line. Also I wanted to check my compressor. Using an FSM from a 2004 (my truck is a 2000 not sure if this area is different) my magnetic clutch would not turn on when jumped to battery . Is this supposed to not come on if jumped and there is no refrigerant? My compressor lock sensor resistance was in spec. Anybody have manifold gauges and pump recomondations or just rent from auto zone.

 

[ponytl]

no compression fittings on automotive ac lines... although some do now use them on standard home/commercial split units (special fittings and special crimp tool kind trick deal) and all mini splits just about use flair fittings

If you jumped your compressor with a hot lead it should have energized the clutch even if the system is void of pressure/refrigerant, very rare for the magnetic clutch to go bad... you should be able to do this with the engine off you will hear the clutch engage and can certainly feel it... i often do it with a safety pin just pierce the wire going to the clutch and use a jumper to the battery,

vac pump and gauges from harbor freight will set you back about $150 for the pair (vac pump on sale now for $89 and I think the Gauges are $39... if you think you will ever have another use for them... vac pumps have a ton of uses... glue stuff up in bags... I use one to suck the fluids out of transmissions and rear ends and oil out of my boat (just use a standard 5gal plastic paint bucket with an in and out fitting) with the rear air you are looking at almost 2 full cans of R134 (the big cans if i remember right)

good luck

 

[sean2202]

no compression fittings on automotive ac lines... although some do now use them on standard home/commercial split units (special fittings and special crimp tool kind trick deal) and all mini splits just about use flair fittings

If you jumped your compressor with a hot lead it should have energized the clutch even if the system is void of pressure/refrigerant, very rare for the magnetic clutch to go bad... you should be able to do this with the engine off you will hear the clutch engage and can certainly feel it... i often do it with a safety pin just pierce the wire going to the clutch and use a jumper to the battery,

vac pump and gauges from harbor freight will set you back about $150 for the pair (vac pump on sale now for $89 and I think the Gauges are $39... if you think you will ever have another use for them... vac pumps have a ton of uses... glue stuff up in bags... I use one to suck the fluids out of transmissions and rear ends and oil out of my boat (just use a standard 5gal plastic paint bucket with an in and out fitting) with the rear air you are looking at almost 2 full cans of R134 (the big cans if i remember right)

good luck

Can you clarify there are not supposed to be compression fittings on the a/c lines or do not use them on the lines? I have attached a picture of my lines and what looks like a compression fitting. Maybe the PO did it. Isn't airsept fittings and caps compression style?
As far as the A/C clutch I tried jumping it with engine off this time (middle location) and still had nothing.
Thanks for the tip on the tools. Been looking on amazon today as well.

 

[ponytl]

second pic ...that looks like something the PO did... I'm not saying it didn't or won't work but " it ain't right " looks like the end of the long line at the top of the first picture... might have been a factory connection with an O-ring and a swedge in the line,the rest of those fittings are right off the plumbing isle of home depot... they are good for 15 psi working pressure, and probably tested to 150psi (idiot proofed) and on the low side of your A/C you are looking at less than 100psi... but the high side could see 300psi (it shouldn't but it could)

I don't know.... but can you bypass the rear air? it's been over 100 around here and I'm in a black 100 and just my front air keeps the back seat cool (that is what my German Shepard tells me anyway it's his seat)

if you bypass the rear air 1 large can will fill your system (the kind they sell with the gauge and hose attached)

I'm sure if you can't get an oem replacement hard line I'm sure there has to be someone local that could make up a line for you... IF you provided the fittings heeded at each end for them to copy or use...

sorry I couldn't be more help

 

[sean2202]

There is a company called airsept that makes a lot of great stuff including rear block off fittings for the rear and compression fittings. Looks like they have 12" sections of tubes as well. I have seen some posts of people using the rear block off and it sounds like people generally cut the lines by the passenger foot well area.

I am going to get a printout at the dealer today to see what I am working with.

How do I get the system to recharge from empty after vac? Do I have to jump the compressor to get the system to take a charge? If my magnetic clutch on the compressor is bad I assume the whole unit needs to be replaced. When replacing a compressor do you need to "pre oil it" or can you just run it out of the box. What other components should be replaced with a compressor.