Could i have bent a front bump stop? (1 Viewer)

[rc51kid]

My driverside front bump stop appears to be contacting the front suspension spring with bigger bumps or bigger holes cycling the suspension. I hear a "spring" noise and now see a rub mark on the front of the front driver bump stop. Right where it goes from rubber to metal there is a rolled lip on the front bumps stop. I can see a rub mark where it is contacting the spring. That bump stop appears to not be centered well in the spring, a little off center.

A few months ago I was in a deep muddy field after spring thaw. Nothing around to winch off if I got stuck. I had to turn around to winch my buddy that was already stuck. Seeing as I was the only one not stuck no way was I going to stop and loose momentum while turning in a large circle. So as you can imagine it became a 4wd donut. When I left the field onto the road the "ditch" was little bigger than I thought. There might have been a little airborne action involved. Could this have bent or shifted the front bump stop?

That was 6 months ago, everything drives like a dream, no vibes, no wandering nothing. I have also changed shocks and springs a few times since then. Could I have gotten the front bump stop unseated when I installed the springs?

Edit: I searched around and see that this is a problem some times with lifts and caster plates. I am using OME 850 and Witsends 2.5" plates. I could always trim the bump stop but would rather find the right way.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I have a 3" lift with Delta arms. Mine also rubs on the drivers side on washboard roads; it's annoying.

 

[LINUS]

Before Joey was vendoring for Rick, I had the same problem with the bumpstop cup where it flares ~3/16” at the lip.

PS was the real offender - made a solid “booooonng” as a coil loaded & released energy / heavy contact w/ bumpstop cup cycling the axle.

I cut off the flared portion, and that took care of most of it - you still heard the coil ride the bumpstop cup lip.

Swapping over to Rick’s plates from the Slee ones cured it entirely.
There’s a whole ‘pivot on radius arm bolt vs. rotate axle on centerline’ - convo that proves out Rick’s via @NLXTACY - are the clear winners.

I’m on 4” Slee HVY FR springs FWIW - Rick worked w/ me to the point we chased every last quirk & I had the 40th AE 80 / bone stock & with the work done we made a 4”+ lift / 315’s rubber -behave exactly like my stock 40th.

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If your FR panhard bushings are good / not originals - just cut the flared portion of the cup off - you’re only taking ~1/2” the length.

Oh, and I was working with a new axle shell - I’d bent the original with a similar situation.

If this never was a issue prior to hopping the ditch, those panhard bushings would be my starting point, then I used 2) 24” framing squares & ~6’ of AL angle to verify my bent axle shell above what loooked visually to be bent.

I used little ~4” deep jaw vice-grips w/ the flat pads that pivot - to make the 3-piece jig hold solid & worked well.


HTH - mine drove me bat$hit crazy, cutting the flared part was my final fix esp with the older way of caster correction aka pivot on radius bolt.

At least you’re on the best plates going.

 

[KC masterpiece]

I have the same issue with 2.5" tapered dobinsons springs up front and 4" Delta Arms.

Just planning to live with it. The noise is a reminder it's flexy time. Maybe it will grind itself down enough to quiet down one day.

 

[surfpig]

I have the same issue with 2.5" tapered dobinsons springs up front and 4" Delta Arms.

Just planning to live with it. The noise is a reminder it's flexy time. Maybe it will grind itself down enough to quiet down one day.

Mine have been that way forever as well. I forget how they're attached, 3 little nuts? Maybe you could shim the rubby side with a washer or something if that's the case. It wouldn't take much.

 

[KC masterpiece]

Mine have been that way forever as well. I forget how they're attached, 3 little nuts? Maybe you could shim the rubby side with a washer or something if that's the case. It wouldn't take much.

I have thought about that but then I need to remove the springs and that's like 4 bolts worth of work!

 

[LINUS]

I have the same issue with 2.5" tapered dobinsons springs up front and 4" Delta Arms.

Just planning to live with it. The noise is a reminder it's flexy time. Maybe it will grind itself down enough to quiet down one day.

Cut the fackers already!

-Then you’ll still have powdercoat on yer inner spring coils

 

[Box Rocket]

Use a grinder and clearance the edge of the bumpstop so it doesn't contact the spring. It probably won't damage the spring if you leave it but it could fatigue that part of the coil and, in the right circumstance, snap the spring.

Also make sure your panhards are adjusted properly to center the axle. Since it's only happening on the driver side it might mean the panhard is locating the axle farther to the passenger side than it should.

 

[Broski]

This is a common problem, Slinky springs see to be the worst offenders as the spring is thicker.
If you have a lift then you need a adjustable panhard so you can recenter the axle, if not your going to rub on the driver side
Once you have the axle centered if the problem persist the the only option is to trim the edge of the bump stop.
In my case I can't stand any clunking or banging around so I ended up trimming the spring mount flush with the frame right where the bump stop is located.
Note, if you are running Delta control arms or have moved your axle forward ( like I did ) it exaggerates this issue !