Costway Fridge (1 Viewer)

[Lumpskie]

Ok, I took a risk. The older 2 pin ARB connector looks to be the same as the connector on my Stakol. So, I ordered an ARB socket and power cord for $67, Supposedly, these connectors are a lot better in handling the amperage from a fridge and they stay put. If the ARB connector plugs into the fridge and works, I'll let you guys know. If it doesn't... I'll still let you know!

 

[Irish Reiver]

@Lumpskie good info for sure. I hard wired mine into the solar controller but having a spare cord would be sweet if i need to move the fridge elsewhere in truck during some camping.

 

[76FJ40]

The low voltage cut off is pretty sensitive so the length and gauge of the wire is a significant factor. Most factory 12V outlets are only 14 or 16 gauge while the ARB wiring kit is 8 gauge.

Voltage Drop Calculator

This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.

www.calculator.net

 

[Cruzerman]

Can you link me what you ordered? The one I found just looked like some wire and a power port. Thanks.

 

[76FJ40]

This is what I used to wire my fridge:

Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW
It is just some 8 gauge wire in a jacket with an ARB screw-type plug and housing.

 

[Lumpskie]

Can you link me what you ordered? The one I found just looked like some wire and a power port. Thanks.

I got this wire for the plug that interfaces with the ARB plug. (I have 12 gauge wire that runs to the back of my rig)
Amazon product ASIN B01EHUO8Y2
Then I got an ARB plug
Amazon product ASIN B00NIOBC0C
I just bought this based upon what the 2 pin connector (to the fridge) looks like. I'm hoping that it just plugs into the back of the fridge.

 

[Cruzerman]

Could be me, but I am unable to see the pictures.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Agreed. The links currently just take me to the Amazon.com "start" page.

 

[87warrior]

Agreed. The links currently just take me to the Amazon.com "start" page.

It's an Amazon linking problem with MUD when the Amazon link is copied and pasted. If you click reply to a post with bad Amazon links you just need to copy this part [ MEDIA =amazon] B00NIOBC0C [ MEDIA ] and paste it in the Amazon search bar and the product will pop up.

Here are the links fixed:

This is what I used to wire my fridge:
ARB 10900027 ARB Fridge Freezer Wiring Kit And Threaded Socket Mount
It is just some 8 gauge wire in a jacket with an ARB screw-type plug and housing.

I got this wire for the plug that interfaces with the ARB plug. (I have 12 gauge wire that runs to the back of my rig)
ARB 10910076 Power Cord Cable for ARB Fridge Freezers DC 12V

Then I got an ARB plug
ARB 10900028 Threaded Socket/Surface Mount Outlet

I just bought this based upon what the 2 pin connector (to the fridge) looks like. I'm hoping that it just plugs into the back of the fridge.

 

[Lumpskie]

I'm here to share my fail. I got my ARB cord and 12v outlet in the mail. The connector looks identical to my Costway fridge connecter, except its deeper:

It plugs right into the back of my fridge and fits nicely.

But, when it's plugged in... the fridge doesn't turn on. I probed the connector and there isn't power to it. I checked the Costway connector and I get 12.6 volts. I'm guessing there's some wizardry in the ARB cord the only sends power if it's connected to an ARB fridge???

Do you guys have any thoughts?

 

[87warrior]

But, when it's plugged in... the fridge doesn't turn on. I probed the connector and there isn't power to it. I checked the Costway connector and I get 12.6 volts. I'm guessing there's some wizardry in the ARB cord the only sends power if it's connected to an ARB fridge???

Do you guys have any thoughts?

Is there a fuse in the threaded socket of the ARB cord? Is it possible the threaded socket isn't making a solid connection in the 12v outlet?

 

[Lumpskie]

Is there a fuse in the threaded socket of the ARB cord? Is it possible the threaded socket isn't making a solid connection in the 12v outlet?

I'll look for a hidden fuse somewhere. That's a good idea. I used my mulitmeter to measure the voltage inside the plug. I'm pretty sure the long probes were making good contact to the inside of the connector. I grabbed the voltage from the regular connector using the same method, and got good voltage...

Is there an ARB fridge owner out there that would be able to confirm my findings on their own cord? I can try again today, just to be sure. But, I got the same results with multiple attempts.

 

[76FJ40]

There's a fuse in the female ARB plug that goes into the 12V socket.

 

[Lumpskie]

I got an idea. I plugged the ARB cable into my front (keyed) cigarette outlet and tried it. It worked! (The fridge lighted up and appeared normal)

I got voltage on the keyed outlet.

ARB Plug running - 14.2
Costway Plug running - 14.2

ARB plug off - 12.6
Costway plug - 12.6


I went to the rear and tried again.

ARB plug - nothing
Costway plug 12.7

I wonder if there's something about that rear outlet that is causing the ARB plug to not like it. I also wonder if wiring in the ARB outlet would fix this. Any thoughts?

 

[80t0ylc]

I would use a meter to check for voltage at the end of the plug that you connect to your fridge when you have it connected to your rear 12v source. Also be sure the polarity is correct. Can not tell from your pic if the plug is keyed, but polarity is very important with DC voltage.

 

[Lumpskie]

I would use a meter to check for voltage at the end of the plug that you connect to your fridge when you have it connected to your rear 12v source. Also be sure the polarity is correct. Can not tell from your pic if the plug is keyed, but polarity is very important with DC voltage.

That's what I tried. I got 12.7 on the Costway cord but didn't get anything on the ARB. They are both keyed identically, with positive showing on the same side. Both plugs work in the front outlet. Only one works (but kicks off the under voltage error all the time) in the rear. Before wiring in the ARB outlet, I'm letting the fridge warm up and validate that the ARB cord gets the fridge to kick on the compressor and actually cool in the front outlet.

My curiosity is... Why doesn't the ARB cord allow voltage on that read outlet? Could there be some sort of current sensing in there?

 

[80t0ylc]

That's what I tried. I got 12.7 on the Costway cord but didn't get anything on the ARB. They are both keyed identically, with positive showing on the same side. Both plugs work in the front outlet. Only one works (but kicks off the under voltage error all the time) in the rear. Before wiring in the ARB outlet, I'm letting the fridge warm up and validate that the ARB cord gets the fridge to kick on the compressor and actually cool in the front outlet.

My curiosity is... Why doesn't the ARB cord allow voltage on that read outlet? Could there be some sort of current sensing in there?

Did you install the rear outlet? If so, what gauge of wire did you run to it from your battery? If you didn't install, can you pull out to check wire gauge and maybe take a pic to show us to help you determine if the gauge is sufficient for the distance from your battery. I would suspect that if one cord works (with error) and the other doesn't work at all, and they both work on the front outlet, you're not getting proper voltage and current that the fridge needs to operate at your rear outlet.

 

[Lumpskie]

Did you install the rear outlet? If so, what gauge of wire did you run to it from your battery? If you didn't install, can you pull out to check wire gauge and maybe take a pic to show us to help you determine if the gauge is sufficient for the distance from your battery. I would suspect that if one cord works (with error) and the other doesn't work at all, and they both work on the front outlet, you're not getting proper voltage and current that the fridge needs to operate at your rear outlet.

Yeah, that was my thought. It is an aftermarket install using 12 gauge to the back. The outlet itself uses 16 gauge. I'm wondering if I should just rewire it and run 8 gauge from the battery back.

Here's a picture of the 12 gauge to 16 gauge crimp connection. I'll grab a better picture of the outlet itself today.

Also, I got the ARB cord to run the display but, even in the front outlet with a 14V supply, the ARB cord seems to kick an ER1 code on the fridge. At this point, I don't think I want to use the ARB cord as I haven't gotten the fridge to actually run the compressor with that cord yet.

 

[80t0ylc]

Yeah, that was my thought. It is an aftermarket install using 12 gauge to the back. The outlet itself uses 16 gauge. I'm wondering if I should just rewire it and run 8 gauge from the battery back.

Here's a picture of the 12 gauge to 16 gauge crimp connection. I'll grab a better picture of the outlet itself today.

Also, I got the ARB cord to run the display but, even in the front outlet with a 14V supply, the ARB cord seems to kick an ER1 code on the fridge. At this point, I don't think I want to use the ARB cord as I haven't gotten the fridge to actually run the compressor with that cord yet.

Looks like you discovered why it's working the way it does. You maybe able to get away with just cutting existing plug and 16 AWG out and wiring new plug into the end of that 12 AWG. Personally, I'd be nervous camping with my fridge on the engine battery. Just noticed your 80 is a diesel. When the conversion was done, I'm assuming that your running 2 batteries up front, now - right? For safest performance running a fridge while extended overlanding, an aux battery that's isolated from your engine batts would be best. Not sure how those that overland with 80 diesels do that. But if you're taking the time to wire it up correctly, I would also go with an isolated aux batt setup.

 

[Lumpskie]

Just to keep this thread up to date with the ARB plug option. I ended up finding out that my power wire was run to a starter solenoid in my diesel swapped rig. The previous owner had put a LOT of aftermarket power wires on there. The terminal was under tension and the housing had developed a crack, which caused poor contact inside the solenoid. (burn marks) When I traced the power wire back to the solenoid, I tried to tighten the connection and it came off in my hand.

I rewired all the other wires to a Blue Sea fuse block I had in the garage. (Sorry for the bad picture)

The rear outlet now seems to be working. The fridge kicked on using only battery power. I'll keep tabs on it. Also, the ARB cord works, if I push and hold it in the outlet. So, my thought is that the ARB socket along with the ARB cord might still be a good option for me. I'm going to run what I have for a few days before making that call but I wanted to update anyone reading this that the ARB option is not dead.