I think you really need to have a core that is capable of a certain amount of heat transfer, Hence the more core area and tighter fins per inch. A smaller area core no matter how much air you throw at it will only transfer so much heat.
Builds Corax's 1UZ VVTi swap
- Thread starter corax
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- #102
That's part of the reason why I went from a 3" thick 3 core to a 2.5" thick 2 core radiator, though the new radiator does have more surface area than the old one which is a step up anyway (294 sq in on the Griffin vs. 370 sq in on the new Champion). The slightly thinner radiator allowed me to fit a fan which covers more real estate, so more of the coolant flowing through the radiator is cooled by the fan.
Kinda. On a very simple level, it's a balancing act between radiator and fan. Tiny radiator and huge fan will be just as bad as a huge radiator with a tiny fan.
There's a lot of bad info out there when it comes to radiators and cooling.
If you have some time, this is a good read and fairly accurate:
Billa Vista Cooling Bible
I have read that
I remember Ole billa Vista from years ago on pirate. But my point was this. Any way you cut it if your core can not physically transfer the amount of BTU needed for the amount of horsepower/heat you develop you can never properly cool a engine.- Thread starter
- #104
someone asked in a private message about the Ford 9" I built - how it's holding up 2 years later and if I'd do anything different - so I thought I'd share the reply
The Ford 9 is still doing great. 35 spline is the way to go, enough beef without being overkill (almost as strong as a Dana60 but without the weight)
Had a small seep from the Toyota pattern pinion flange, polishing the seal area fixed that.
I went with the Dutchman Set 20 taper greased bearings (uses an inner axle seal to keep the gear lube out of the bearing), and one side started seeping slightly after a 5 hour 80mph trip in high heat last year. 30 minutes and new inner seal a few weeks later and that issue hasn't come up again.
If I had to do over . . . I'd skip building a used housing, everything else, I'm happy with.
- I got an "early big bearing" housing, would have been a bit easier to do the disc conversion using a "late big bearing" housing (pattern matches, no elongating holes in the Exploder parts).
- I would buy a Strange Engineering housing (link), but that Dutchman housing package looks like a good deal (+ they can make sure everything works together, don't forget to have them machine a access hole in the flange if you're doing the Exploder discs)
- With the Strange housing (1/4" thick tubes) I wouldn't have had a second thought about needing an axle brace. Even being careful and making tiny stitch welds/waiting for each weld to cool, the housing arched back and now I have about 1/4 degree toe out (not ideal, but not terrible for the bearings). This makes the rear end squirrely if I'm on-power through a turn (the outside spring arch flattening/pushing the axle back under weight transfer steers the axle to the outside of the turn to begin with). I tried heat shrinking the forward face of the tube to pull it back, but only got very limited results
The Ford 9 is still doing great. 35 spline is the way to go, enough beef without being overkill (almost as strong as a Dana60 but without the weight)
Had a small seep from the Toyota pattern pinion flange, polishing the seal area fixed that.
I went with the Dutchman Set 20 taper greased bearings (uses an inner axle seal to keep the gear lube out of the bearing), and one side started seeping slightly after a 5 hour 80mph trip in high heat last year. 30 minutes and new inner seal a few weeks later and that issue hasn't come up again.
If I had to do over . . . I'd skip building a used housing, everything else, I'm happy with.
- I got an "early big bearing" housing, would have been a bit easier to do the disc conversion using a "late big bearing" housing (pattern matches, no elongating holes in the Exploder parts).
- I would buy a Strange Engineering housing (link), but that Dutchman housing package looks like a good deal (+ they can make sure everything works together, don't forget to have them machine a access hole in the flange if you're doing the Exploder discs)
- With the Strange housing (1/4" thick tubes) I wouldn't have had a second thought about needing an axle brace. Even being careful and making tiny stitch welds/waiting for each weld to cool, the housing arched back and now I have about 1/4 degree toe out (not ideal, but not terrible for the bearings). This makes the rear end squirrely if I'm on-power through a turn (the outside spring arch flattening/pushing the axle back under weight transfer steers the axle to the outside of the turn to begin with). I tried heat shrinking the forward face of the tube to pull it back, but only got very limited results
- Thread starter
- #105
4 1/2 years ago, I used 22RE rubber mounts (since they're very common and were in use for decades) on my own brackets. After about 6 months, they relaxed enough to let the oil pan contact the steering relay rod (center link), so I built a new oil pan to clear that (it was already close when I made the brackets originally). Over time, they relaxed a bit more to where other clearances are getting tight.
So, this was the problem. After 4.5 years, the rubber mount sagged and the engine dropped ~3/4 inch.
With a 2x4 laid across the top of the fenders and over the front of the engine (tightest point between engine and hood), I have ~ 7/8" - 1" of space between the board and the engine cover with the sagging rubber mounts.
So I made new mounts to lift the engine back up to slightly higher than where it was when I originally swapped it. After I paint and install the new mounts, the engine cover should touch and just barely lift the board. Because the hood arches up in the middle, I'll still have enough room to close the hood with no problem (already verified). Barnes 4WD DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole and Barnes 4WD Full Circle Bushing Mount Pair with some 1/4" plate make up the frame side mount, the rest was just making a 1/4" thick plate for the engine side and 1/8" to take up the space between. (Pic is before it was fully welded and braces were added to the vertical pieces)
So, this was the problem. After 4.5 years, the rubber mount sagged and the engine dropped ~3/4 inch.
With a 2x4 laid across the top of the fenders and over the front of the engine (tightest point between engine and hood), I have ~ 7/8" - 1" of space between the board and the engine cover with the sagging rubber mounts.
So I made new mounts to lift the engine back up to slightly higher than where it was when I originally swapped it. After I paint and install the new mounts, the engine cover should touch and just barely lift the board. Because the hood arches up in the middle, I'll still have enough room to close the hood with no problem (already verified). Barnes 4WD DOM Sleeve & Poly Bushing 2 5/8 Inch Mounting Width 9/16 Inch Bolt Hole and Barnes 4WD Full Circle Bushing Mount Pair with some 1/4" plate make up the frame side mount, the rest was just making a 1/4" thick plate for the engine side and 1/8" to take up the space between. (Pic is before it was fully welded and braces were added to the vertical pieces)
- Thread starter
- #106
Final product all painted and installed. That's 1/4" plate against the engine to reduce warp from welding and stay flat & 1/4" plate where it bolts to the stock mount on the frame for the same reason. All the rest of the plate is 1/8" and gusseted. Note the slight notch I had to make to clear the coolant block-off plate (only necessary on the passenger side).
Driving around, there is a very slight amount of vibration, but it's barely noticeable and easy to ignore.
I do get some vibration above idle in neutral - - at ~2,000 rpm or above, it's enough to make something rattle in the dash, but it's fine at high idle on a cold start
Driving around, there is a very slight amount of vibration, but it's barely noticeable and easy to ignore.
I do get some vibration above idle in neutral - - at ~2,000 rpm or above, it's enough to make something rattle in the dash, but it's fine at high idle on a cold start
Stumbled on this while googling for info on 1UZ and fuel pressure sensors - great thread. I am nearing the finish line (but stalled for the last couple of years after a move) a non-vvti into an FJ55 - lots of similar challenges. For anyone else reading, check out youtube cartunesNZ for all things 1UZ, also, re the oil pan, if you can find one, I think its the sc400's that have a rear sump - swaps easily and gives clearances (in my thread somewhere), Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #108
After only 30k miles and 5.5 years (of admittedly hard use), the Spec Stage 2+ clutch started slipping on the second day of the Oregon Trail Rally. I could only give it less than 1/2 throttle or it would start to let loose. Luckily, I was able to limp it the 100 or so highway miles home at a leisurely pace.
Fun fact. If you don't have a trans jack to drop the trans & xfer in your driveway, 2 ratchet straps between the frame rails is a viable option
Failure analysis didn't reveal anything catastrophic, it just looks like it got worn out. The disc wasn't metal-to-metal, though the pressure plate (which is on the kevlar side of the disc) had about a .020" dish to it (similar to the .0197" step on the flywheel). If the Kevlar didn't wear the pressure plate, it may have lasted a while longer.
kevlar side of the clutch disc
One bit that was curious to me was that the flywheel still had the original machine finish to it, and I could actually still feel it running my fingernail across it. From new, it wasn't a ground surface but more like the type of machined surface you'd have from a freshly cut brake rotor. Maybe that rough flywheel surface helped contribute to the clutch's early death? I'm used to seeing a near mirror finish by the time the clutch is worn out. None of the hot spots looked terrible, so this is going to get resurfaced by one of the few machine shops in my area that can still do an actual grind on it.
Final review of the Spec Stage 2+ clutch: Pedal feel and application was great. It held firm under all the high speed driving abuse and towing I could throw at it (until it couldn't any more). It always squealed during initial application when pulling away from a stop (sounded like a belt squeal does). Maybe that was a result of the flywheel surface, since I was pretty careful (I thought) with breaking it in. The noise was my biggest complaint with it.
I didn't want to drop a whole lot of money and possibly get another noisy clutch, so this time I went with a South Bend Clutch Stage 2 Daily. The Spec S2+ was rated for 450ft/lbs and is a kevlar/organic dual friction setup, The SBC S2 Daily is rated for 425 ft/lbs. and is organic. I considered the SBC S2 Endurance, but that uses feramic on the flywheel side which will likely cause significant flywheel wear (a new custom flywheel for this swap is still several hundred dollars). In talking to a SBC sales rep, they said, "You're not really going to get more longevity from feramic. You would get less life basically and eventually it will over time cause wear to the flywheel." and that just because it might be rated for higher torque doesn't mean it will last longer.
Here's a comparison of the difference between the Spec S2+ disc which was meant for a ~93 V6 Toyota Pickup and the new SBC for a ~93 MR2 Turbo. The original instruction for the swap kit said I could use either application as both are supposed to be a 9.25" disc, but the Specs S2+ disc is clearly a smaller diameter. the SBC disc (on top) measured close to 9 3/8".
Fun fact. If you don't have a trans jack to drop the trans & xfer in your driveway, 2 ratchet straps between the frame rails is a viable option
Failure analysis didn't reveal anything catastrophic, it just looks like it got worn out. The disc wasn't metal-to-metal, though the pressure plate (which is on the kevlar side of the disc) had about a .020" dish to it (similar to the .0197" step on the flywheel). If the Kevlar didn't wear the pressure plate, it may have lasted a while longer.
kevlar side of the clutch disc
One bit that was curious to me was that the flywheel still had the original machine finish to it, and I could actually still feel it running my fingernail across it. From new, it wasn't a ground surface but more like the type of machined surface you'd have from a freshly cut brake rotor. Maybe that rough flywheel surface helped contribute to the clutch's early death? I'm used to seeing a near mirror finish by the time the clutch is worn out. None of the hot spots looked terrible, so this is going to get resurfaced by one of the few machine shops in my area that can still do an actual grind on it.
Final review of the Spec Stage 2+ clutch: Pedal feel and application was great. It held firm under all the high speed driving abuse and towing I could throw at it (until it couldn't any more). It always squealed during initial application when pulling away from a stop (sounded like a belt squeal does). Maybe that was a result of the flywheel surface, since I was pretty careful (I thought) with breaking it in. The noise was my biggest complaint with it.
I didn't want to drop a whole lot of money and possibly get another noisy clutch, so this time I went with a South Bend Clutch Stage 2 Daily. The Spec S2+ was rated for 450ft/lbs and is a kevlar/organic dual friction setup, The SBC S2 Daily is rated for 425 ft/lbs. and is organic. I considered the SBC S2 Endurance, but that uses feramic on the flywheel side which will likely cause significant flywheel wear (a new custom flywheel for this swap is still several hundred dollars). In talking to a SBC sales rep, they said, "You're not really going to get more longevity from feramic. You would get less life basically and eventually it will over time cause wear to the flywheel." and that just because it might be rated for higher torque doesn't mean it will last longer.
Here's a comparison of the difference between the Spec S2+ disc which was meant for a ~93 V6 Toyota Pickup and the new SBC for a ~93 MR2 Turbo. The original instruction for the swap kit said I could use either application as both are supposed to be a 9.25" disc, but the Specs S2+ disc is clearly a smaller diameter. the SBC disc (on top) measured close to 9 3/8".
2 strap tranny pull is my favored method
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