CopperState 80series project (1 Viewer)

[Social Casualty]

CopperState 80 (new seats & 4lbs air tank)

A Mighty Greetings to all you IH8Muders out there!

Newbie here from the good o'l Copper State up here in beautiful Prescott. Originally from Los Angeles the wife and I sold our business of 16 years (in automotive) and sought for a slower, healthier way of life away from a big city. In doing so I've been drawn to the trails and back roads across Northern Arizona and have come to the realization that our beloved f250 even though a great 4x4 is just way to large for what we need. So after a few months of realizing the differences in offroad vehicle types and understanding what platform is best for us we have bought our first 80 series. A 1994 JZJ80 w/201400m, factory lockers, it's completely rust free, no damage to the body what so ever, paint is good and other then a cracked dashboard from the killer heat in the Phoenix area where I bought it the interior is surprisingly clean. Only issue and its a dozy, it had a loud knock which seemed to me to be a spun rod bearing, so long story short after taking the drive down to the valley and looking it over I walked away with it for 2300.00 not a bad deal I feel as that with a little bit of labor and about 2200.00 in oe Toyota parts and rebuild fees we will have a 94 80 series with 0 on the clock for under 5000.00 which leaves me with a large budget to drop on all the goodies I've been dreaming of every night since we bought her.

At this point not much has been done other then that the engine has been pulled and is at the rebuilders who has had numerous FJ/FZJ rebuilding experience under his belt. With factory Toyota parts going into this build including oil pump, water pump, timing chain with tensioners/guides, oem gasket rebuild kit and a couple others I'm hoping to get another 200k plus out of her which to my understanding is not so hard with just some basic maintenance.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7040/6895157547_86da9bddcf.jpg

What we thought was going to be a spun rod bearing do to oil starvation actually was not, seems that at some point the engine might have been over revved or the transmission was possibly dropped in a low gear while the vehicle was at a high speed which could of caused the bearing Babbitt to crush and displace on cylinder no.6 but the bearing actually did not spin and the crankshaft tested out great. "Luckely"

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7068/6895184399_ac8dbb3c40.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6895184463_576b7bae76.jpg

 

[Tyler93]

I hope you get it back from the mechanic soon, you will love driving your 80 series. These motors are very tough, and if you wanted to fix strictly what was wrong and throw it back together it would possibly be good to go until 350k, but it sounds like you want to do it right. Welcome to MUD.

 

[SWCruiser]

parts

if you haven't already lookup CDAN on the forum. He offers the mud crew a smoke deal on OEM parts. He works for a dealer in ABQ so its relatively close to you. Welcome

 

[GCRad1]

Hello CS and stoked to see you on here!!!

FACTORY LOCKERS Man, you are so stoked!!!

Looking foward to seeing your rig come together and we will have to meet up out there somewhere in the middle for some fun adventures!

SUBSCRIBED!!!

 

[BrotherRob]

That's a neat trick. I haven't seen many 80s with bottom end issues. That must have taken some effort.

 

[8KCABDriver]

Nice to see another Prescott 80 around! I'd interested to learning who is doing the rebuild, my cylinder head needs some work due to leaking valve seals. Some local guys used to meet down at the courthouse parking garage on the first Tuesday of the month @ 7PM. I have not been in a while, so I'm not sure if they are still meeting or not. https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/172617-prescott-metro-cruisers-14.html

WELCOME

 

[Social Casualty]

Well it payed off, Searching and searching I finally came across a very clean dashboard to replace my Sun beaten/cracked up one. So who says nothing good comes out of California anymore? Came from a privet party out of a 95 in Southern Cali and looks absolutely great and cost way less then all the parts yards I talked to. Now I just cant wait to get the Cruiser back so I can put it in.

I also picked up a Black solid mast antenna that I will be swapping out with the broken factory one. Found it at our local U-Pick-It parts yard in town for 15.00 complete. Should work out perfect with just some minor bracket modifications.

Tyler93:
Yes thanks! I can't wait to get it back up and running I really have no prior driving experience with a 80 series so I cant wait to get behind the wheel.

SWCruiser:
Awesome Thanks! I already placed my oem order out for the rebuild but will surely keep him in mind for the next list of goodies.

GCRad1:
Factory Lockers, Yes I Am, Stocked that is!

8KCABDriver:
Thanks for the info and PM sent your way.

 

[Social Casualty]

Well after having to run back and forth to LA the past couple weeks I finally was able to spend some time tinkering on the 80. As that the engine is still at the rebuilder's I've went ahead and started the engine bay cleanup as well as changing out the cracked dashboard, detinting the 11 windows of their degraded purplish tint then getting rid of that noisy broken power antenna and replace it with a solid mast unit I picked up a couple weeks ago in a wrecking yard.

Removing the old dashboard and getting the new one in was surprisingly simple except however, when I pulled on the old dash once all the screws/fasteners were out the VIN plate cut out on the top left corner of the dash decided to grab a hold of the VIN plate and make bacon out of it but after a couple moments of flattening it back its ok.

FYI Window tinting removal: many of you may already know but using a steamer like ones used for clothing or even a iron that steams makes the process so much simpler then a heat gun and a razor blade. Took about 15-20 minutes to remove the tint and residual glue per window. Was also safe on the rear window that had defrost lines.

Also decided to remove all the door window rubbers as well as remove the quarter slider window units and clean all the years of dust/dirt out and wow what a difference especially with those sliders.

Tomorrow will be finishing up the antenna install then its time to pull the two front seats and replace that pesky drive gear that was eaten up due to the screw cap falling out.

 

[Social Casualty]

In the process of removing that Sun beaten Purple tint
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6960142017_13cddf4f59.jpg

All clear of the old tint. Total tint removal time for the eleven windows was
about 2.5 hours including removing and cleaning all the rubbers except for
the tailgate rubber.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6814028798_110f401819.jpg

Out with the o'l powered antenna and in with a simple hard to break solid
mast jobbie.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6960142469_c7ac273c43.jpg

 

[Social Casualty]

This weekend involved removing the two front seats and replacing the drive gears that had been worn out do to the alignment caps going missing on both seats later to find that the passenger seat's motor is also dead. Also worked on cleaning the engine bay and getting it all in order for the rebuild to go in sometime this week. Then removed the pesky Gold emblems and painted them Grey and Blacked out the Chrome trim on the corner lamps and front grille. Also noticed that the rear window defroster tabs that the wires attach to were both broken so I just cut off the plugs on either side and soldered them directly to the tabs.

cleaning up the engine bay


Just a quick weekend test fit, can't wait till the full set is in permanently.

 

[GCRad1]

Is there any special cleaning technique you used on all the rubber? Any treatment? I was thinking that I should replace all the rubber, but if there is a way to sqeeze some more years out of it, then please give us some details! hehehe

I need to remove the old window tint too - but I wanted to go rally-chrome spec, but I heard that California pass a law against chrome tint.

All clear of the old tint. Total tint removal time for the eleven windows was
about 2.5 hours including removing and cleaning all the rubbers except for
the tailgate rubber.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7188/6814028798_110f401819.jpg

 

[OGBeno]

Nice work here. Glad to see another 1FZ saved and brought back to glory!

 

[Social Casualty]

Cleaning the rubbers I completely removed them used hot water, Simple Green and a tooth brush. Was actually quite simple just a little messy and if you have any discoloration in the rubber from age I use non chlorinated brake cleaner on a rag and rub down the area and it looks almost new.

Good chance that Chrome tint is not going to be legal in California. You could check with your local tint shop, they should know all the legalities.

Is there any special cleaning technique you used on all the rubber? Any treatment? I was thinking that I should replace all the rubber, but if there is a way to sqeeze some more years out of it, then please give us some details! hehehe

I need to remove the old window tint too - but I wanted to go rally-chrome spec, but I heard that California pass a law against chrome tint.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Nice work here. Glad to see another 1FZ saved and brought back to glory!

Ditto

 

[Social Casualty]

A bunch of parts showed up last week so the wife and I had a great weekend installing some of the new stuff. First off the engine rebuild is completed, doing great and already do for the first oil change that I should be able to do in a few days. In addition to completing the engine install last week this past weekend we got to install the OME 3" kit w/ 4+plus brackets, a set of Black powder coated oe 16" fjz80 wheels I purchased from a Mudder in Phoenix "Thanks azTony", set of Toyo 295/75/16 Cross Country A/Ts, ARB bumper, Warn winch a set of PIAA fogs and we Blacked out some of the Chrome parts.

Pros & Cons:

OME 3" suspension kit w/ 4+plus brackets and steering damper

Kit was really basic to install only problem we ran into was that the 4+Plus brackets needed to be filed on the back side so that the main frame bolt could line up in addition to that one of the two aft bolt holes (the inner one) would not line up and had to be lightly opened up with a little filing. This was a problem for both left and right side brackets.

ABR bumper & Warn VR10000-S

This is my second ARB bumper and once again I am impressed with design and quality. The bumper actually installs easier then the factory 80 bumper since the mounts slide over the vehicle's frame holding it in place so starting the bolts is a breeze. As for the VR10000-S since it is a smaller frame winch it will either need the ARB 3500050 spacer kit for 50.00 or you can make the spacers yourself.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7016169557_487767d157.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6115/7016169899_026dccdf2b.jpg

 

[davegonz]

Looks good. I'm digging your blacked out front grill. I might have to copy that

Tell us about that car with the huge intercooler to the right.

 

[Tapage]

big intercooler on your driveway ....

 

[Social Casualty]

Thanks Guys, The car to the right is my last surviving drift car that we competed and preformed demos with between 2001-2005 within the D1 and Formula Drift series. She is a 1989 Nissan 240sx or better known on the drift circuit as a S13 Silvia running a built SR20DET engine pushing around 500hp to the wheels. The car is still in top condition and when times allows I bring her to open drift days at various local tracks and play around but nothing serious anymore.

First gen graphics "Gloomy Bear" 2001-03

Second gen graphics "Malefic the Cat" 2003-05

 

[FunkLord]

She is a 1989 Nissan 240sx or better known on the drift circuit as a S13 Silvia

That is not an S13 Silvia.

 

[Social Casualty]

Yes it is an S13 but not a Silvia, as I know the US Hatchback 240sx is not badged Silvia/180sx upon import and the engine a KA24DE is basically a truck engine, But its Chassis is still designated as a S13 here in the US not to mention its built at the Kyūshū plant in ***uoka Japan and shares the majority of its parts with its sister the Silvia so is pretty close. As that our "240SX" has had its engine changed to a SR20DET w/Trans and Jspec rear differential, tail lights and a hand full of others parts its the closest to a Silvia Spec a US 240SX will ever be.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/7035269105_d131cc9389.jpg

Any questions, Please enjoy
Nissan 240SX - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That is not an S13 Silvia.