Copenhagen1 Intro Thread 1992 FJ80 3FE

[Copenhagen1]

What seat covers are you putting on? I'm in dire need of some and not looking forward to giving SOR what they want for them.

Your 40 is looks great by the way!

They got delivered yesterday. Here is a picture of the box with the contents.






The website is exactseatcovers.com. This is the second set I have purchased from them. I bought the same color (gray) and material (endura) for my 2008 Tacoma DC. The endura feels like a cordura. It is supposed to be waterproof although I never really tested that. The color and material held up well for the time I owned that truck. Back then I was very pleased with the fit for the amount of money I paid. I couldn't believe that I got custom fitted seat covers for around $200. They have gone up since then.

I put these on in the dark last night so I couldn't get pics yet. I will update this post with pics later today. They went on very smoothly, no major malfunctions, and once again I am very pleased with the product for the amount of money I spent. They would have been over $300, but I found a coupon on the Internet and spent $290 delivered.

I am not sure about the 'weight' of the material compared to the tuff duck seat covers because I have never seen the SOR covers in person. They MIGHT be a heavier material than the ones I bought but the tuff duck are $255 for front and $255 for second row. Mine were basically 1/2 that amount.

The front bottoms stretch over from the front to the back. There are 2 compression straps that you thread under the seat, front to back, then hook the compression buckles up and pull tight. Then there is one Velcro type strap that you thread under the seat, side to side, and pull tight and attach the Velcro.

The seat backs are basically like a big trash bag with the opening at the bottom. The opening has Velcro sewn on both sides. You open it, wrestle the 'trash bag' down over the seat back, then push the remainder of the front material through to the back, then press the Velcro closed. Headrest are like pillow cases with Velcro on bottom.

Update...










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[Copenhagen1]

They have some extra storage pockets on the front of the front seat bottoms...




Then they have pockets on the front seat backs...




Then they also have some small pockets on the back seat backs...




My invoice....




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[Copenhagen1]

yes .. but the amount of lift you are talking I would use 2.5" coils on front and spacers on rear to get a level stance ..

This is/was a great suggestion and would probably accomplish exactly what I want but I am now thinking I might do a complete 2"-2.5" lift. I am researching Ironman, TJM, OME. I know, I know.... I said I didn't want to lift it very much but there is a little devil sitting on my shoulder telling me it needs 2-2.5" and 33" tires to get rid of the 'soccer mom' look.

 

[Tapage]

you don't need much more than 2" and will have plenty space for 33"

 

[Copenhagen1]

Ok. My window switches were acting crazy. Some windows would roll down and up from driver seat, some would not. Some of those that would not work from driver seat, would work from the individual switch at the location. My passenger front window was down and would not go up at all.

The first day I had it, I pulled all the door panels and ran a straight 12v to each motor. It would either go up/down depending on polarity. If I reversed the hot and ground, they would all go the opposite direction (up/down). This told me my motors were fine. I lubed up the tracks and the rubbers as mentioned previously, then left all the windows up until I could figure out what to do.

I am normally an "OEM only" type of mechanic but after researching, it appeared that OEM was pretty high priced. I found this seller on "the bay" named switch-doctor. These switches may not last till the water gets hot, but this seller has a lifetime warranty and a 99.8% positive feedback after 25,000 transactions. I could buy all 4 door switch units for $74 shipped. I thought it was worth a try. I took the original single switches apart to see if I could repair them but I wasn't real impressed with the OEM quality either. They have little round plastic rockers that wear off after so much use.

I installed my new switches today, and have achieved 100% success! All windows roll up and down from driver seat and all windows roll up and down from each of the passenger seats. I love it when a plan comes together. Here are the links....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1997-4Runner-Land-Cruiser-LX450-Electric-Power-Window-Master-Switch-NEW/390351426245?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D477742037179546766%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D230694887631%26

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1989-1998-Toyota-Passenger-Electric-Power-Window-Control-Switch-FreeWarranty/330814597387?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D477756207046904768%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D230694887631%26

 

[Copenhagen1]

Spent saturday and sunday unwiring all of the aftermarket things that have been added over the last 21 years. It was quite a job. I decided to clean everything I touched while I was there. Took out most of the dash and all seats and carpet Here is the pile of electronic stuff that came out.




Here is the dash...





I took down an Audiovox dvd player off the ceiling where the original dome light should be. They didn't mess up the headliner too bad so I am on the lookout for an original equipment dome light. PM me if you have one laying around.

I chose to leave the aftermarket alarm system. It has remote start and appears to be in good working order. That is the only wiring left that is not original Toyota. If it gives me any trouble, it will be gone as well.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Ok... It's like Christmas in September.

I received a BIG box from Onur over at Lowes Toyota. It contained my brand new OEM radiator and numerous water hoses (3FE kit maybe?). I ordered a new fan clutch, thermostat and radiator cap as well. I looked into the CSF radiators but could not find one for less than $300. For about 10% more, I went OEM. I figured the original lasted 21 years so why mess with success.










Along with these items, I ordered a new dome light to replace the disc player the PO had installed and I uninstalled. I went ahead and put it in today.






I also ordered a new rear heater switch. It was the only thing I found that wasn't functioning properly in the dash while I had it apart. I had 'lo' but did not have 'hi'. I usually have pretty good luck repairing the factory switches but this one was pretty complicated upon disassembly. I got it back together but then I had 'hi' but not 'lo'. So Onur sent me a new one upon my request. Installed today and works great now.






I will probably document my work on the cooling system when I start but I don't have time to tear it down today. I have begun driving the 3FE daily, trying to split some miles off of my much loved 100 series. I am really growing fond of this FJ80 as well. It is slow but steady and makes an awesome work truck.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Well.... I didn't document the coolant system work very well. All I can say is that Toyota 3FE's are a little tough to work on..... As stated above, I ordered all new heater and coolant hoses from Onur. I installed the new OEM radiator, thermostat, and fan clutch. I can guarantee that some of those hoses were original equipment and 21 years old. It took an act of God to get to some of them. I don't believe I have ever worked on a cooling system that you had to dismantle pretty much everything outside and under the hood to access. I would like to speak with the engineer that decide to 'thread' one of the 2 lower radiator hoses through the PS and A/C brackets Here is a couple of the only pictures I took...







The more I work on this truck, the more I like it. I have not had one bit of trouble breaking anything apart and everything appears to be pretty simple and straight forward.

 

[goshenite]

Like the 40 wheels! When purchased my 92 had a set of chrome wheels which I have only seen on FJ 60 or 62 IIRC. Bead blasted them a sprayed with Rustoleum grey and mounted KM2 33"x9.50x15". Have wheeled it mildly twice no rubbing so far and no lift.



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[Copenhagen1]

Like the 40 wheels! When purchased my 92 had a set of chrome wheels which I have only seen on FJ 60 or 62 IIRC. Bead blasted them a sprayed with Rustoleum grey and mounted KM2 33"x9.50x15". Have wheeled it mildly twice no rubbing so far and no lift.

View attachment 809089

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Those look very nice

Don't mean to correct you, but are you sure those aren't 10.50's? I didn't think BFG made the new KM2's in a 9.50 width but I could be wrong. That is what I wanted for my 40 but they never produced them I don't think. They make the KO's in a 9.50 width.

The 60 series 6 spoke wheels look good on that 80.

 

[goshenite]

You are correct! I apologize for the bad info.



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[Copenhagen1]

Since my last update, I have installed a set of Ironman Springs and Nitrogas shocks.

I couldn't afford for my FJ40 to be without its factory steelies, so I decided to paint my factory aluminum rims with Duplicolor Graphite and installed a brand new set of BFG KM2's.

Here is how it looks now...













I just ordered all of my tuneup items from Beno so next up........tune-up!

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[LC8pilot]

Looks fantastic! Those KM2s look the business. I'm hoping to go the same direction with my '92. Question - did you put a clearcoat over the duplicolor?

Jason

 

[Copenhagen1]

Looks fantastic! Those KM2s look the business. I'm hoping to go the same direction with my '92. Question - did you put a clearcoat over the duplicolor? Jason

Yes I did. I used the same technique and finish on my 100 series rims about 60k miles ago and it has held up well. They still looked decent after 2.5 years and60k miles. I needed new tires on it so I took the opportunity to refinish them again before mounting new Nittos.

Here is a pic of my addiction.....




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[scrowley]

Nice fleet. You need a 60 now

 

[GCRad1]

View attachment 809089

Checking out your thread & subscribed!

I liked your steel wheel look! I see you have moved on to a set of stock aluminum's - I save mine too, but with the '96 rear axle I had to go to 16" wheels to clear the disk brakes.

PS: Like your collection!

 

[GCRad1]

Checking out your thread & subscribed!

I liked your steel wheel look! I see you have moved on to a set of stock aluminum's - I save mine too, but with the '96 rear axle I had to go to 16" wheels to clear the disk brakes.

PS: Like your collection!

 

[roostabunny]

Been waiting for a build thread like this - a 3FE/80 in similar shape to mine with an owner who builds/baselines a bit faster/braver than I do.

Seriously, looking good and enjoying all the pics.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Been waiting for a build thread like this - a 3FE/80 in similar shape to mine with an owner who builds/baselines a bit faster/braver than I do.

Seriously, looking good and enjoying all the pics.

Thanks Josh! If you think mine is a good thread, you ought to read this one….
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-refresh-doing-a-reboot-on-my-92.784422/

I was completely inspired by LC8pilot thread. He claims to not be much of a mechanic but he was fearless when he "refreshed" his 3fe. He is also a really nice guy and has helped me a few times through pm's.

A couple of weeks ago, my alternator went out. It started over charging so in order to get to it, a lot of parts had to come off. I am in the middle of the repair now. I ordered all new battery cables from Urban Land Cruisers and all new belts and pulleys, alternator, water pump, valve cover gasket, side cover and side cover gasket, distributor o-ring, plugs , wires, dist cap, etc, etc. I am also doing a complete desmog while I am in there. Should be up and running again in a couple weeks. I'm a little lazy

 

[roostabunny]

Thanks Josh! If you think mine is a good thread, you ought to read this one….
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-refresh-doing-a-reboot-on-my-92.784422/

I was completely inspired by LC8pilot thread. He claims to not be much of a mechanic but he was fearless when he "refreshed" his 3fe. He is also a really nice guy and has helped me a few times through pm's.

A couple of weeks ago, my alternator went out. It started over charging so in order to get to it, a lot of parts had to come off. I am in the middle of the repair now. I ordered all new battery cables from Urban Land Cruisers and all new belts and pulleys, alternator, water pump, valve cover gasket, side cover and side cover gasket, distributor o-ring, plugs , wires, dist cap, etc, etc. I am also doing a complete desmog while I am in there. Should be up and running again in a couple weeks. I'm a little lazy

Yes! Great thread that I'd bookmarked but not read through in detail. Time to do that, especially since I just bought belts, thermostat & seals, lower rad hoses, idler pulley, and such. Belts noisy, but considering pulling the grill and rad and adding some jobs while I'm at it (water pump? fan clutch?). Truth is, I gotta get my bike running again (hangs head in shame for letting it gum up) so I can have another DD and do some bigger jobs now that the weather's nicer!