2001LC
SILVER Star
OH, hooks to your air compressor.
Cooling system flush & burping coolant: what's your process? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter abuck99
- Start date
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I wasn't quite following the venturi effect. I needed to see it in a video. Below is the video explanation for anyone else like myself.
Its fantastic - you can vacuum the system to -20 PSI within about 45 seconds. Then lock the negative pressure in, stick your hose into your fresh jug of coolant and open the other valve, it simply displaces the vacuum with coolant until you're at 0 PSI. I then pull off the adapter, turn the motor on and run it with the heat on high for 30 seconds and top up radiator with at most a cup of fluid. Fill coolant reservoir to low mark, cap the radiator and idle the motor up to operating temp and see if it displaces any coolant into the reservoir. Then while still hot I top up the reservoir to the full line and turn it off.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Sounds good. Is the gauge vacuum only or does it also read positive pressure?
Only vacuum that I know of. Might be a way to reverse it by flipping the valve.
Our car’s cooling system is very basic, easiest to deal with. Just fill to the top, make sure fluid above Min in expansion tank. Ran and refill after cooled down. Can’t be any simpler than that
Are y'all blowing out the heater lines with compressed air or flushing them with they rest of they system?
- Thread starter
- #69
Ideally- to keep correct dilution evacuating all fluid from rear system and core should be done- but there’s really not a good system for this unless you want to waste a bunch of coolant. I don’t like the idea of blowing compressed air through the heater core.
Early models using SL (red) can buy concentrated version of SL coolant, flush system with distilled water and do the math to compensate for the diluted mix to achieve 50/50.
Later models using SLL - it’s easier to drain as much as possible and refill with fresh SLL. If the system has been regularly flushed and system is clean, doing this every 24-36mo ensures that the old SLL hasnt lost much of its chemical properties and the new coolant refreshes the old. It’s roughly 75-80% new to old ratio
Early models using SL (red) can buy concentrated version of SL coolant, flush system with distilled water and do the math to compensate for the diluted mix to achieve 50/50.
Later models using SLL - it’s easier to drain as much as possible and refill with fresh SLL. If the system has been regularly flushed and system is clean, doing this every 24-36mo ensures that the old SLL hasnt lost much of its chemical properties and the new coolant refreshes the old. It’s roughly 75-80% new to old ratio
2001LC
SILVER Star
I do like blowing out heater cores, especially in systems with SLL (pink). Ideal time is when replacing heater Tee's, blowing from their hoses last.
If not removing Tee's. I blow for reservoir return line into radiator. I pressurize system to ~18 PSI, then alternate which of 3 drains opened. I get almost as much as when blow from reservoir hose then tee's.
If not removing Tee's. I blow for reservoir return line into radiator. I pressurize system to ~18 PSI, then alternate which of 3 drains opened. I get almost as much as when blow from reservoir hose then tee's.
I have the T’s out. Which line would be the intake?
2001LC
SILVER Star
The top larger hoses going to firewall, are for the front heater core. DS is coming from engine going to core.
Lower smaller hoses going down along firewall, are for the rear heater core. DS is coming from engine going to core.
Lower smaller hoses going down along firewall, are for the rear heater core. DS is coming from engine going to core.
