Coolant Replace

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Mar 28, 2003
Boulder, CO
Based on posts here and SOR, I had hoped to drain and fill my coolant. However, it doesn't currenlty have Toyota Red in it. So I am presuming that I need to do a good flush before I put the good stuff in it, yes?
Yes, and make sure you have the heater on and the lever to full hot temperature, so the heater core gets flushed as well.
There are some good posts explaining the full procedure. The most important things that some people overlook are draining the engine block, draining the heater core (as Sean mentioned), flush the old coolant completely, empty the overflow tank, and use 50/50 with distilled water.
You can also check with a good staelership on the flush and refill price, Wynns( additive company) makes a pretty good non acidic flush treatment and has a pretty cool machine wich does the whole deal for you. (or your stealer) Just got one at the F@Rd dealer where I work and is supposedly an alkali base flush so it is safe for aluminum rads.
The funny thing was even the wynns factory rep tried to talk me out of doing full system flush to get rid of the green and then adding the red. he advised even trace amounts of the green will cause some severe clumping of the red if added. Might of just been being paranoid but I figure he sells the powerflush machine he cant be that far off base.
in short how bad to you want to take it back to red?
Sean & B- Thanks for confirming.

B- "There are some good posts explaining the full procedure."

You wouldn't be thinking of this post from SOR would you!! ;)

"Since I did this last weekend here are a few tips. If you're using the Prestone kit as someone else suggested, you can install it on the hose going into the heater valve. The hose has a 90 degree bend so placement is critical. You may need about 2" of a flexible 5/8" heater hose that goes between the heater valve and the garden hose connection. You'll also need 2 or 3 gallons of distilled water (under $1 ea at the grocery store.) Get 2 gallons of Toyota coolant (the red stuff.)

After you install the kit, drain the engine block and the radiator. There is a 14mm brass plug on the US DS of the engine block. You can get to it through the DS front wheelwell. Use about 2' of extension to get to the plug (torque at 22ft/lbs). The radiator drain cock can be accessed after you remove the front skid plate (4 bolts.) If you remove the radiator cap the coolant will spray everywhere. If you leave it on the coolant will drain slowly and can be drained into a bucket. I would remove the block plug first, let it drain, then remove the radiator drain plug (white).

Install the block plug and follow the directions on the Prestone flush kit. Basically, you will hook up the garden hose and get it flowing. When the water starts coming out the top of the radiator, start the engine. Push the heater control to full hot and let the engine run about 5 minutes with the water flowing. Eventually it will run clear. Turn off the engine and let the radiator drain. Remove the block plug again and let the water drain. Put the cap on the Prestone fitting. Remove the overflow bottle and empty it because it will be full of old coolant and tap water.

Reinstall the block plug and the radiator plug. Pour 1 gal of Toyo red in the radiator. Pour 1 gal of distilled water in the radiator. Pour 1/2 of the 2nd coolant jug into the empty water jug. Use the remaining distilled water to mix up a 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water. Fill the radiator with the 50/50. Check for leaks. Fill the overflow bottle with 50/50. Loosely install the radiator cap and start the engine, again checking for leaks. Let the engine run for a few minutes and top up the radiator as necessary with the 50/50.

If you're in to preemptive maintenance like I am, this would be a good time to put in a new thermostat and gasket (when the coolant is drained of course.) Check all hoses when it is drained and replace as necessary. You will probably get coolant sprayed on the engine so be prepared to clean the engine with Simple Green or similar.

Antifreeze is toxic to dogs so clean up any spills. Some communities approve flushing the old coolant down the toilet for disposal. If you're concerned then check it out first, otherwise just flush the old stuff and you're done."
Brief and concise. C-Dan would be proud.

If it were earlier, I would embellish a few areas but you can do the job from that terse drivel.

That's your post from last fall!! Yes, it's late, I'm going to bed.
Jeeze Byron... do you really think I can't recognize my own babbling?


Are these Drain Plugs on the Australian 80? - Dads looked and could'nt find 'em. ??? - Otherwise. :slap:

I flush the Radiator exactly the same way I was shown when I worked as a Motor Mechanic and have never had any problems, Even with mixing of different Brands of Coolant.

1. Remove the Expansion Bottle then Clean and Replace.
2. Keep the Expansion Bottle Hose out Whilst Flushing. - Remember to replace.
3. Remove the Radiator Cap and the Top Radiator Hose from the Radiator end.
4. Put the Garden Hose in the Radiator and turn the Tap on.
5. Put the Heater on the Open Position.
6. Start the Engine and let it get to Operating Temperature.
7. Turn the Engine off when the Water comes out the Top Hose clean.
8. Turn the Garden Hose off and Remove from Radiator.
9. Refit the Top Hose onto the Radiator.
10. Start the Engine again, This time watch for the Water to stop gushing out the Radiator then stop the Engine as soon as possible.
11. Fill the Radiator to the top with Coolant.
12. Refit the Radiator Cap.
13. Fill the Expansion Bottle to the Maximum Line with Coolant.
14. Refit the Expansion Bottle Hose and Turn the Heater to the Closed Position.
15. :cheers:

Anyone know what type of Coolant Toyota Red is? - Ethlene Glycol or Biodegradeble.
I am stuck with green. I will swap to better once I swap engines in 5 years.
[quote author=Phaedrus link=board=2;threadid=6064;start=msg48554#msg48554 date=1065588140]
even the wynns factory rep tried to talk me out of doing full system flush to get rid of the green and then adding the red. he advised even trace amounts of the green will cause some severe clumping of the red if added. Might of just been being paranoid but I figure he sells the powerflush machine he cant be that far off base.
in short how bad to you want to take it back to red?

I wonder what the lesser of the two evils is then - keep running Prestone (or your particular favorite green) or get a good flush and risk clumping with factory Red?

I'm due for a change in the next week or two as well.
eeep, I guess I am to (just looked at my records).

no time, lovely...
I guess I'm the only one that will look at this backwards and spook the paranoids out there. When they switched your cruiser from red to green do you think they did a proper flush? You are probably clumping right now .................
My 97 had red (probably the original) when I bought it 2+ years ago. The first thing done was a replace of all fluids and a good radiator flush using Prestone green. It ran that way for over a year, then I flushed again and switched to red.

From what I've read, the most important thing is:
1. Don't mix
2. Use distilled water.
3. Change it every year.

Some of the coolant "experts" keep mentioning the properties of the coolant deteriorate with time and usage. Some of these chemicals are specifically designed to minimize chemical reactions with aluminum. Replacing every year replinishes these chemicals and reduces the problems with aluminum engine parts; specifically the head in the case of the 1FZ-FE.

It appears that frequent changing is MORE important than red vs green.

I am also curious as to what is Toyo Red? Is it Ethylene Glycol with organic corrosion inhibitors. Is it EG with silicates? Is it Poly Glycol? What makes it clump when added to green (eg w/ silicates)? I do regualar flushes with green and I have never seen any evedence of clumping.

I need a demonstration vehicle during the cooling system unit so the 80 gets a flush about this time every year. It got another one when I did the PHH this summer. Sorry, Dan, but there's no way I'm feeding your dogs t-bones, cause that's what a yearly replacement of Red costs.
Ive seen the red stuff and green stuff mixed and it just looks nasty and brown but never chunky.(my sister did this with her old corolla when she lost a hose and ran it 50/50 and was fine untill it was changed a couple years later) But mix DexCool and green and that turns nice and chunky :p
Edited to correct Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1) for Zerex..........D-

OK, I have a bottle of Toyota red and a bottle of Zerex in front of me.
The toyota label reads as follows:

Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Water (7732-18-5), Organic Acid Salt (532-32-1), Hydrated Inorganic Salt (1310-58-3).

The Zerex label reads as follows:

Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6), Dipotassium Phosphate (7758-11-4), Water (7732-18-5), Corrosion Inhibitors, Silicone Silicate, Defoamers, and dyes.

Not quite sure what all of that means, but it is not the same stuff.

7732-18-5 is Distilled water. This number is the MSDS "CAS" number.

107-21-0 isn't in the MSDS database that I searched, but -1 is in the database.

You can look up numbers here:

If the labels are like others, the ingredients are listed in order of highest percentage. That means the Zerex has more of that phosphate than it does water.

My typo, I got lost in all the "stuff" both labels read the same(107-21-1) I have corrected the original post.

If I understand it all, the red, like Dex-cool has organic anti-corrosives and the green stuff has silicates. Sounds like Toyo Red is similar to Dex-cool in that regard.

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