Coolant leaking out on top of radiator (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 10, 2023
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Location
Fort Lauderdale
Hey guys, new owner of a 2007 LC here. I recently purchased this and have been going through and doing some maintenance.

When I purchased it I noticed a coolant smeel inside the cabin, very faint and random but I took it to a shop they did a compression test and said the radiator needed to be replaced. That was done about 2 weeks ago. Recently I am getting the same coolant smell again. When I got home from a 30 minute store trip I took a look and could see coolant sitting on top of the radiator near the stem/cap. I then took it back to that same shop for them to take a look, they did another compression test and said all looked good and that the coolant resivour was possibly over-filled. Fine, I took it home and today during a short trip I smelled coolant again! I stop, open the hood and see coolant sitting in the place on top of the radiator (pictures attached). The PO had put an aftermarket radiator cap on while I dont think this is the issue since where the stem meets the cap looks dry I ordered a new OEM cap to just to test.

Looking a bit closer I can see some coolant coming out of where the hose connects to the radiator (third picture). Possibly the hose just isn't fully seated and is backing off?

Other notes:
Their is 0 overheating, engine stays consistant temp
No coolant in other parts of the engine bay
No standing coolant on the ground

Thanks for any advice.

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After some more searching, it seems it could be coolant overfilled like the shop said. Although I find it a little strange it would just be purging now...
 
Maybe check where the rear mounts for the driver and front passenger seats bolt down to the floor, specifically at the rear mounting bolt closest to center console. If you have pinhole leak in the rear heater core lines there may be some carpet discoloration, dampness, etc. in that area.

There was a thread a month or two ago where someone had a small leak in the rear heater core lines.
 
If that radiator is not a T.Rad from the dealer there is a good chance it failed. The cap looks aftermarket, too.
 
If that radiator is not a T.Rad from the dealer there is a good chance it failed. The cap looks aftermarket, too.
If the new radiator failed wouldn’t something have came back when they compression tested?

I have a new OEM radiator cap and new OEM coolant tank cap + hose coming in on Monday going to try swapping those out.
 
Maybe check where the rear mounts for the driver and front passenger seats bolt down to the floor, specifically at the rear mounting bolt closest to center console. If you have pinhole leak in the rear heater core lines there may be some carpet discoloration, dampness, etc. in that area.

There was a thread a month or two ago where someone had a small leak in the rear heater core lines.
I was a little concerted about heater core at first but carpets are completely dry and clean
 
Is there a way to pressure test the heater core? I don't know of there's a way but I would surely like to know.
 
My 2006 did the same thing with both my original radiator and the new oem radiator. I too was concerned but I believe its a result of an old hose that isnt sealing perfectly where that little clamp is. Try a new hose and clamp if you can find a part number.
 
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My 2006 did the same thing with both my original radiator and the new oem radiator. I too was concerned but I believe its a result of an old hose that isnt sealing perfectly where that little clamp is. Try a new hose and clamp if you can find a part number.
Yup I ordered a coolant reservoir tank cap/hose that comes next week. Will install it with the new radiator cap and hope these resolve it.
 
Pull off that hose at the radiator cap, cut 1/2” off of it, and put it back on.
 
When filling a new radiator, it often takes a few running cycles for all the air to settle out and for the overflow tank to normalize. Many times the overflow is filled up at a shop and this causes a bit of overflow. The purpose of that tank is so that when the engine cools and the fluid in the radiator shrinks, some fluid is sucked into the radiator from the tank. This looks like fluid going through the overflow hose that is not tight, as mentioned. Ive done two of these radiators and replaced others. It always takes a drive or two, even with proper burping on an uphill slope. Ive even had to do this after fancy vacuum bleeding on my German cars. keep cleaning the area and monitor. Its likely just the hose as mentioned.
 
When filling a new radiator, it often takes a few running cycles for all the air to settle out and for the overflow tank to normalize. Many times the overflow is filled up at a shop and this causes a bit of overflow. The purpose of that tank is so that when the engine cools and the fluid in the radiator shrinks, some fluid is sucked into the radiator from the tank. This looks like fluid going through the overflow hose that is not tight, as mentioned. Ive done two of these radiators and replaced others. It always takes a drive or two, even with proper burping on an uphill slope. Ive even had to do this after fancy vacuum bleeding on my German cars. keep cleaning the area and monitor. Its likely just the hose as mentioned.
Actually do remember having to burp the system when I did my timing belt and took my radiator out for it.

It did take several burp cycles to get the coolant reservoir to stabilize. Until then I thought I had a leak in my system.
 
Just following up on this if anyone comes across it with something similar, replacing the coolant overflow tank cap + hose has resolved this.
 
After some more searching, it seems it could be coolant overfilled like the shop said. Although I find it a little strange it would just be purging now...
Clean it up, top off fluid, and monitor it.
 

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