Coolant leak when cold (1 Viewer)

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same thing happened to me. ordered anew rad. did a headgasket a job a few years ago so everything else is new. Looks like it is pooling in the fan shroud.
 
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Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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A trick of the trade is to shake a container of talcum powder around the engine bay....scent is your choice.

Any leaks will leave a trail in the talcum powder which dries out leaving the trail in place, works great for finding internal leaks inside the car as well.

Regards

Dave
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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Here's an article discussing three types of hose clamps.


I like the constant tension clamps but there a couple of things to keep in mind.

If reused on the same hose then orient them so they are in the same position.

Use the correct tool that holds them correctly when fitting in tight places.

And finally look out for the smaller versions, catch your finger, arm or whatever on the protruding edge and they can open you up like a can of sardines!!

Regards

Dave
 

PNWTreeOctopus

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And finally look out for the smaller versions, catch your finger, arm or whatever on the protruding edge and they can open you up like a can of sardines!!
Rite of passage. It’s cruiser reminding you blood sacrifices are required from time to time.
 
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Might be a good place to mention this (no hijack intended):

I replaced all of the engine bay water heater hoses along with most of the clamps on my 97 model FZJ80 with Gates Power Grip Hose "clamps". These clamps look like wide black bands and are made of a specific type of thick heat shrink plastic. Originally developed and designed for over-the-road truck fleets to decrease cold leaks.

The type of Gates heat shrink clamps used for large trucks are shipped to the truck manufacturer on dry ice and stored in deep freezers until they're installed. They're only pulled out when the truck reaches a specific section of the assembly line where the tech has 30 seconds (each) to get the clamps from the freezer onto the hose connection as they're designed to shink at room temperature (personal communication with a Gates tech).

The aftermarket Gates Power Grip clamps however are made from a different formulation of thermoplastic that's stable at room temperature and needs to be heated (heat gun or small torch) to shrink.

Altogether I replaced around 20 hose clamps of different sizes in the engine bay (1FZFE) with the Gates Power Grip clamps.

Point is, in relation to this thread, this type hose clamp grips very snugly and evenly all the way around the hose. There wasn't one drop (leak) on first cold start of the engine. Been meaning to start a thread on this topic, got a bunch of photos.

FWIW

 
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Might be a good place to mention this (no hijack intended):

I replaced all of the engine bay water heater hoses along with most of the clamps on my 97 model FZJ80 with Gates Power Grip Hose "clamps". These clamps look like wide black bands and are made of a specific type of thick heat shrink plastic. Originally developed and designed for over-the-road truck fleets to decrease cold leaks.

The type of Gates heat shrink clamps used for large trucks are shipped to the truck manufacturer on dry ice and stored in deep freezers until they're installed. They're only pulled out when the truck reaches a specific section of the assembly line where the tech has 30 seconds (each) to get the clamps from the freezer onto the hose connection as they're designed to shink at room temperature (personal communication with a Gates tech).

The aftermarket Gates Power Grip clamps however are made from a different formulation of thermoplastic that's stable at room temperature and needs to be heated (heat gun or small torch) to shrink.

Altogether I replaced around 20 hose clamps of different sizes in the engine bay (1FZFE) with the Gates Power Grip clamps, not one drip on first cold start (been meaning to start a thread, got a bunch of photos).

FWIW

Also, most hose clamps are only good to about 64 lb-in of torque on the screw. The heavy duty ones are only good to about 95 lb-in.

Once a hose clamp has been over torqued, it's done. It will never come close again.

I purchase clamps for my work and I have actually gone through testing strength and clamping forces and testing to failure on a lot of different types.

I really like the Toyota squeeze clamps for everything ony truck. It I have to use a screw clamp, it will be an Ideal brand, heavy duty 5/8" wide or wider
 

studawg

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Add me to the list, exact same thing happened. Just started getting pretty cold here and I cranked it up yesterday morning to let it warm up for a few minutes. Came out and there was a small pool under the front left. After it warmed up the leak stopped. I think the upper radiator hose clamp is leaking a little.
 
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Metuchen, NJ
Same thing happened to me recently. It turned out to be the aux trans cooler connections. They were crusty with rust and leaking after 5-10min after warming up.

off topic, does anyone have a good solution to cleanup trans fluid from the asphal?
 

PNWTreeOctopus

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Same thing happened to me recently. It turned out to be the aux trans cooler connections. They were crusty with rust and leaking after 5-10min after warming up.

off topic, does anyone have a good solution to cleanup trans fluid from the asphal?
Nothing proven, but people like oil eater for that purpose. Ask your local NAPA folks. Maybe your NAPA with be like mine and the employees will be helpful and knowledgeable. They usually have some various driveway degreasers. Or try Lowes/ HD. Probably a degreaser followed by a pressure washer? If it’s only asphalt then you won’t have to work too hard. But if it’s concrete and the stain is very prominent you might have to work at it. GL!
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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Water.

Just run a hose over the area, just a trickle. The oil will lift from the surface however, if left too long the oil will soften and damage to asphalt.

If damage has occurred then cement dust, or if none available cat litter.

Regards

Dave
 
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Denton, TX
Had this issue this morning and it was the clamp on the lower radiator hose. Changed the clamp and had my mechanic pressure check for any other leaks. None found. All is good.
 
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Florida
Most of my clamps are the Gates Constant Tension clamps but they are still tightened like a worm clamp. I had one leak in the cold. Sure wish I had used the spring style constant tension. I guess you're suppose to use a torque driver/wrench with these but I didn't. So, maybe it was my fault. Either way, I don't think I saved much going this route and wouldn't do it again.

 

PNWTreeOctopus

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Most of my clamps are the Gates Constant Tension clamps but they are still tightened like a worm clamp. I had one leak in the cold. Sure wish I had used the spring style constant tension. I guess you're suppose to use a torque driver/wrench with these but I didn't. So, maybe it was my fault. Either way, I don't think I saved much going this route and wouldn't do it again.

I think the Toyota clamps are worth it…except for the ones on the hoses by the firewall…those are difficult.
 

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