Completed 1KZ-TE swap into 2001 Tacoma

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Careful with advancing the timing. Especially when it gets hotter out. It can really stress the ring lands and bottom end also. A couple of highly boosted 3B's on the forum here that were under heavy load broke crankshafts. It has been theorized that thermally advanced timing caused this (the hotter the air under compression, the faster the diesel ignites). I did play with the advance resistor on my motor and did notice more audible knock even just a couple resistor values above stock.

My 2LTE has the same EFI system as the 1KZTE. I've successfully doubled my wheel hp while running lower than stock EGT's. I've played with both the fuel and advance resistors, but found the stock settings to be best for efficiency and reliability. The most effective way I've made the extra power was by way of the spill control valve (solenoid on the top of the pump head). Of course this is coupled with a good intercooler, much higher boost, and high flow exhaust etc. I'm running 18psi (post intercooler) on the stock turbo, and I've turned the spill control valve adjust screw up 3/4. Completely transformed the motor. A high efficiency intercooler is very important though. Just some ideas for ya!

The timing is usually set lower from the factory to reduce NOx emissions, and increasing timing increases efficiency up to a point. There's always a tradeoff between NOx and fuel efficiency. But I'm definitely backing down on the timing resistor, there's audible knock under light load. I also have a switch wired to a relay that adds resistance to the fuel correction circuit, but I'm definitely going to adjust the spill valve screw. I'm making one change at a time and recording fuel mileage.

nice the 1kz will do that with the standard turbo, well kind of. Needs an external wastegate to help flow the extra gas . Poor little turbo at 24psi with the external gate was still seeing 2:1 drive pressure kept making power though

That means it needs a larger turbine impeller ;)
 
The timing is usually set lower from the factory to reduce NOx emissions, and increasing timing increases efficiency up to a point. There's always a tradeoff between NOx and fuel efficiency. But I'm definitely backing down on the timing resistor, there's audible knock under light load. I also have a switch wired to a relay that adds resistance to the fuel correction circuit, but I'm definitely going to adjust the spill valve screw. I'm making one change at a time and recording fuel mileage.

Right on, sounds like you are on top of it. Just a note from the manual on these pumps (and my experience too), and that is the fuel correction resistor seems to make the biggest difference at lower rpms (out of boost), and the spill control valve screw makes the biggest difference at higher rpms (in boost). The fuel resistor for me made more smoke out of boost and reduced my mpg. Where the spill control valve did not do these things, but made way more power once boosted.

You've probably found and read this, but this describes exactly how your engine ECD system works. There are a couple of slightly different versions of it:

V 3 P5ZGR01.pdf

V 3 AAC02V3D.pdf
 
Right on, sounds like you are on top of it. Just a note from the manual on these pumps (and my experience too), and that is the fuel correction resistor seems to make the biggest difference at lower rpms (out of boost), and the spill control valve screw makes the biggest difference at higher rpms (in boost). The fuel resistor for me made more smoke out of boost and reduced my mpg. Where the spill control valve did not do these things, but made way more power once boosted.

You've probably found and read this, but this describes exactly how your engine ECD system works. There are a couple of slightly different versions of it:

V 3 P5ZGR01.pdf

V 3 AAC02V3D.pdf

Right, I remember reading about the fuel correction resistor only affecting low RPM. I'm excited to see what adjusting the spill valve does! I basically use the correction resistor as a "scramble" function for some extra low-end grunt. I notice that in gear at a stop light, sitting on the brakes, the engine produces more torque with the correction resistor on; you can feel the truck try to move forward. Kinda cool but I'm glad you've confirmed my suspicion not to leave it on all the time.

I don't have either of those particular .pdf's (I have yet another version that isn't as complete) Thanks for the links!
 
Right, I remember reading about the fuel correction resistor only affecting low RPM. I'm excited to see what adjusting the spill valve does! I basically use the correction resistor as a "scramble" function for some extra low-end grunt. I notice that in gear at a stop light, sitting on the brakes, the engine produces more torque with the correction resistor on; you can feel the truck try to move forward. Kinda cool but I'm glad you've confirmed my suspicion not to leave it on all the time.

I don't have either of those particular .pdf's (I have yet another version that isn't as complete) Thanks for the links!

You're welcome for the manuals.

One really important thing you should know, that is do not turn the spill control valve screw in more than 3/4 turn. At 1 full turn, your engine will go into run-away. Yes, I have confirmed this does actually happen. For me it did not happen until I revved the engine up. When I let the throttle off the motor kept going right up to redline. I had to crawl under my hood and turn that screw back out with the motor screaming right by my head. NO FUN!!!

Turn the screw 1/8th turn at a time. In for more fuel, out for less. Take a picture before you turn it at all so you have a reference to the original position. Oh, and there should be a little steel cap on top. Just gently pry it off first.

You will need to add more air with the additional fuel. I forget, but do you have a manual boost controller?

Oh one more thing I remember now. On the 2LTE the computer goes into error if the boost is over 14.7psi or so, and it cuts the fuel. I'm not sure if the 1KZTE does this also. The way I (and others) have gotten around this is by t-ing in a air flow controller just before the boost sensor. We use this to proportionally drop the boost level curve seen by the boost sensor. It works really well. Basically tricks the computer into thinking the boost is normal, when you are actually running much higher boost.

Here is a little write up on how to do it: Reducing 2lte egt's It would be exactly the same concept for the 1KZTE.
 
You're welcome for the manuals.

One really important thing you should know, that is do not turn the spill control valve screw in more than 3/4 turn. At 1 full turn, your engine will go into run-away. Yes, I have confirmed this does actually happen. For me it did not happen until I revved the engine up. When I let the throttle off the motor kept going right up to redline. I had to crawl under my hood and turn that screw back out with the motor screaming right by my head. NO FUN!!!

Turn the screw 1/8th turn at a time. In for more fuel, out for less. Take a picture before you turn it at all so you have a reference to the original position. Oh, and there should be a little steel cap on top. Just gently pry it off first.

You will need to add more air with the additional fuel. I forget, but do you have a manual boost controller?

Oh one more thing I remember now. On the 2LTE the computer goes into error if the boost is over 14.7psi or so, and it cuts the fuel. I'm not sure if the 1KZTE does this also. The way I (and others) have gotten around this is by t-ing in a air flow controller just before the boost sensor. We use this to proportionally drop the boost level curve seen by the boost sensor. It works really well. Basically tricks the computer into thinking the boost is normal, when you are actually running much higher boost.

Here is a little write up on how to do it: Reducing 2lte egt's It would be exactly the same concept for the 1KZTE.

Yep, the 1KZ ecu has the same 101 kPa boost cut. I like the idea of just bleeding off a little bit of pressure to it. Thanks for the idea!

If you look a few posts back, you'll see my MBC install.

The injection pump actually has height measurement on the spill valve nut that has to be in a certain range. I was able to get a caliper in there and make sure my adjustment was in spec.
 
Thats an impressive build. I've seen plenty of KZ conversions but not one that uses the V3 system. Everyone I've seen replace it with a VE conversion.

I've heard plenty of stories of people winding the spill valve to the point of taking off. Generally speaking most of the old ones we use try to use in a rebuild you struggle to get your full load fuel and have it cut out properly too. You could well find if or when you were aiming for more power a new spill valve could help.
 
Thats an impressive build. I've seen plenty of KZ conversions but not one that uses the V3 system. Everyone I've seen replace it with a VE conversion.

I've heard plenty of stories of people winding the spill valve to the point of taking off. Generally speaking most of the old ones we use try to use in a rebuild you struggle to get your full load fuel and have it cut out properly too. You could well find if or when you were aiming for more power a new spill valve could help.

That is some excellent information. Is there a source for new Spill Valves?

Totally unrelated, but have you ever seen anyone upgrade a 2LTE with the 1KZTE 12mm pump? I'm at the limits of my 2LTE 10mm pump. I wondered if the 2LTE ECU could handle it with some tweaking of the correction resistors and some Spill Valve adjustment.
 
That is some excellent information. Is there a source for new Spill Valves?

Totally unrelated, but have you ever seen anyone upgrade a 2LTE with the 1KZTE 12mm pump? I'm at the limits of my 2LTE 10mm pump. I wondered if the 2LTE ECU could handle it with some tweaking of the correction resistors and some Spill Valve adjustment.

I can get you a part number for a new spill valve if you post your pump number, you should be able to buy one through a Denso dealer fuel shop. As for the KZ pump on 2LTE engine, no I havn't seen that but it might be possible to build a 2LTE using the KZ's head and cam which would make a big difference. I'll have a look next week and see if it would work.
 
I can get you a part number for a new spill valve if you post your pump number, you should be able to buy one through a Denso dealer fuel shop. As for the KZ pump on 2LTE engine, no I havn't seen that but it might be possible to build a 2LTE using the KZ's head and cam which would make a big difference. I'll have a look next week and see if it would work.

I'll PM you so I don't side track this thread.
 
Hey man, this is an amazing project!!!

Question for you: you posted a detailed cad drawing for the dump pipe flange, but it's the one image in this thread that's not loading. Any chance you could repost it? I've been looking for these specs everywhere!
 
Man, wish I would have seen this. Would have bought it for sure. I live up Rist Canyon west of Fort Collins. Have any other cool builds for sale? I'm in the market for a new daily driver..
 
Man, wish I would have seen this. Would have bought it for sure. I live up Rist Canyon west of Fort Collins. Have any other cool builds for sale? I'm in the market for a new daily driver..

Yeah, shoot. It would have been perfect to get up Whale Rock (or any of the other crazy steep roads up there)

I'm working on an OM606 powered FZJ80 land cruiser currently, but I don't think that'll ever be for sale. I do have a nice 97' Outback for sale right now though...
 
Yeah, shoot. It would have been perfect to get up Whale Rock (or any of the other crazy steep roads up there)

I'm working on an OM606 powered FZJ80 land cruiser currently, but I don't think that'll ever be for sale. I do have a nice 97' Outback for sale right now though...

Damn that sounds cool! Yeah the Tacoma would have been perfect... I need to get my head above ground more often.

I maybe interested in a 97 Outback, was looking to get a truck but ya never know. If you get a chance want to message me details?
 
Hello i was wondering were you found the info on the ecu connector pinout. I am installing a 1996 1KZ-TE out of a hilux into a 1986 FJ63. My wiring harness did not come with the 12p connector and i can not find the correct pinout for my ecu. any help would be amazing
 
Hello i was wondering were you found the info on the ecu connector pinout. I am installing a 1996 1KZ-TE out of a hilux into a 1986 FJ63. My wiring harness did not come with the 12p connector and i can not find the correct pinout for my ecu. any help would be amazing

Honestly, I just kept searching Google, the Hilux surf forums, and lots of Google image searches till I found some diagrams. Sorry I don't have a great source other than that.

Edit: The best way to find diagrams is to know what vehicle your ECU/engine is from. Then, I'd head to that vehicle's forum and search around. I, for example, had a motor from a KZN185 hilux surf, so I found some diagrams on their forums.
 
Reviving an old thread. Great work @anothernord on the 1st gen Tacoma 1KZ-TE swap. I followed your original thread on TacomaWorld. I realize you have sold that truck and moved on to an 80 series.


The 1KZ-TE engines are becoming more available in the US. There are several Ebay auctions live right now for a 1KZ-TE, R150 manual trans, t-case, and ECU/wiring harness.

The 1KZ-TE also has the correct engine mounts for 1st gen Tacoma originally equipped with a 5VZ-FE (3.4 liter). They also use the same/similar R150 manual trans.

Another common engine swap is for a pre-1995 Toyota Pickup. Lots of people swap from the 3VZ-FE (3.0 liter) to the later-model 5VZ-FE (3.4 liter). Those trucks also use the R150 trans.

My question is, can you swap a 1KZ-TE into a pre-1995 Pickup originally equipped with a 3VZ-FE?
 
Reviving an old thread. Great work @anothernord on the 1st gen Tacoma 1KZ-TE swap. I followed your original thread on TacomaWorld. I realize you have sold that truck and moved on to an 80 series.


The 1KZ-TE engines are becoming more available in the US. There are several Ebay auctions live right now for a 1KZ-TE, R150 manual trans, t-case, and ECU/wiring harness.

The 1KZ-TE also has the correct engine mounts for 1st gen Tacoma originally equipped with a 5VZ-FE (3.4 liter). They also use the same/similar R150 manual trans.

Another common engine swap is for a pre-1995 Toyota Pickup. Lots of people swap from the 3VZ-FE (3.0 liter) to the later-model 5VZ-FE (3.4 liter). Those trucks also use the R150 trans.

My question is, can you swap a 1KZ-TE into a pre-1995 Pickup originally equipped with a 3VZ-FE?

I think the 3.4 swap guys have custom engine-side mounts that match the 3.0. That wouldn't work for the 1KZ since the block is different, so the best option would be to cut the mounts off the 95' frame and fab up new ones to match the 1KZ. Not too hard if you have a grinder and a welder.
 
I’m pretty sure you don’t have to change the frame mounts. Just use 3VZ block mounts on the 5VZ. Dunno if the 3VZ block mounts would work on the 1KZ-TE though.

“With the use of block mount brackets and rubber insulators from a 3.0L 3VZ-E application, it will bolt straight into the frame mounts of a 3.0L vehicle.”

3.4L (5VZ-FE) Conversion - Tech Info - Off Road Solutions
 
@anothernord - Thank you for replying to my question about the 1KZ-TE. I've decided it's just easier to swap the 1KZ-TE into a 1st gen 3.4 liter Tacoma (rather than a 3.0 Pickup). I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.

I realize you used a 1KZ-TE out of a Hilux surf (1995 to 2000; KZN185 engine code). What about the transmission? The automatic transmissions are identical. What about the manual transmission? They both use the R150F trans. Are they also directly swappable?
 
@anothernord - Thank you for replying to my question about the 1KZ-TE. I've decided it's just easier to swap the 1KZ-TE into a 1st gen 3.4 liter Tacoma (rather than a 3.0 Pickup). I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.

I realize you used a 1KZ-TE out of a Hilux surf (1995 to 2000; KZN185 engine code). What about the transmission? The automatic transmissions are identical. What about the manual transmission? They both use the R150F trans. Are they also directly swappable?

I used the auto trans that came with the KZN185 1KZ. I am pretty sure the torque converter stall is different between gas and diesel, and the A340F ratios may be slightly different.

Putting a manual trans behind a 1KZ requires a different input shaft and a different bell-housing. I'm not totally sure there but I know it can be done.
 

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