Complete sudden brake failure (1 Viewer)

[vanqu1sh]

Driving home from work yesterday when I hear a high pitched alarm coming from the dash, I look down and see the ABS and Brake light illuminated. It's at this point I get huge sinking feeling, as I've been neglecting repairing my broken emergency brake. (Probably a simple fix, just got lazy)

I made it another 1,000 feet, pressed the brake pedal and nothing. Pedal sinks to the floor and not a bit of braking ability. I was incredibly lucky to have a big empty field with a slight uphill near the road. I veered off, narrowly avoiding rear ending the car in front of me, let it roll to a stop and put it in park. No damage to me or anyone else.

I can't stress enough the importance of a functioning emergency brake. If this had happened a mile back i would be rolled over a hill or in the river. Laziness could have seriously injured me, someone else, or worse.

Had her towed to my driveway to begin troubleshooting/repair. Have not had a chance to scan codes yet but upon visual inspection my brake fluid reservoir is over full.

 

[Ayune]

Holy cow...

 

[2001LC]

Wow glade no one hurt.

Over filled reservoir is usually from not following topping procedure. Only time I've seen complete loss of peddle, is when pressure lost do to fluid being lost (leak).

Be interesting to see what you find.

 

[vanqu1sh]

Wow glade no one hurt.

Over filled reservoir is usually from not following topping procedure. Only time I've seen complete loss of peddle, is when pressure lost do to fluid being lost (leak).

Be interesting to see what you find.

Fluid level was previously in the normal range. I had stainless steel brake lines from Slee installed at a dealer back in March, no issues since then.

My guess is it's the well documented ABS Actuator/Master Cylinder issue. I'll dig into it tonight.

 

[livelarg]

I had this happen to me. And it was just as sudden.
My problem was that the bearings on the drivers side exploded. when that happened, the wheel started whobbling. When that happens, it pushed the calipers all the way apart and then when I pushed the pedals, there were no brakes at all.

To check that, I lifted the front of the truck, and checked the wheels, and the drivers side was whobbly.

Replaced the bearings, all good.

Good luck!

 

[livelarg]

P.s

The calipers being pushed out by the wheel who blue would also explain why the reservoir is overflowing now

 

[skhochay]

Driving home from work yesterday when I hear a high pitched alarm coming from the dash, I look down and see the ABS and Brake light illuminated. It's at this point I get huge sinking feeling, as I've been neglecting repairing my broken emergency brake. (Probably a simple fix, just got lazy)

I made it another 1,000 feet, pressed the brake pedal and nothing. Pedal sinks to the floor and not a bit of braking ability. I was incredibly lucky to have a big empty field with a slight uphill near the road. I veered off, narrowly avoiding rear ending the car in front of me, let it roll to a stop and put it in park. No damage to me or anyone else.

I can't stress enough the importance of a functioning emergency brake. If this had happened a mile back i would be rolled over a hill or in the river. Laziness could have seriously injured me, someone else, or worse.

Had her towed to my driveway to begin troubleshooting/repair. Have not had a chance to scan codes yet but upon visual inspection my brake fluid reservoir is over full.

see if you can pump air from the brake booster, so have key off position start pressing on the brake pedal like 40 times until pedal starts failing though , then switch key to on position you suppose to hear a pump booster noise and brake pedal start pushing back and getting stiff , if it is not happening then you have problem with boost pump and the problem can be with pump, module, solenoid or relay.

 

[skhochay]

in addition do not mess with boost pump if you do not know how to, if the boost tank under the pleasure and you tried to unbolt it , it will explode it can kill ya.

 

[aging fleet]

Glad you were able to get it stopped.

You're not the first. Poll on total brake failure in 100 series

 

[nissanh]

Glad you made it to a safe stop.
Since I started driving, I always use the park brake, so on the day I went to test drive the cruiser, I pulled the park brake lever and it almost broke my wrist as the handle rose to the top without any resistance!

Guess the first repair I did to the cruiser
Also, in my area, a vehicle must have a functional park brake to pass the inspection.

 

[vanqu1sh]

Pulled C1252 and C1256 codes. Looking for the correct part number(s) I need to do the replacement....

Is this what I'm looking for? Brake Booster w/Master ABS Actuator w/o Stability Control 98-99 [47050-60010] - $2,199.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

 

[2001LC]

Code tells where to look.

Evacuate the Booster just like you did to detriment brake fluid "previously in the normal range", instructions are on brake reservoir. Then turn key on (don't start) and time how long it takes until booster pump shuts off. Normal is 30 to 40 seconds.

 

[OG 91 LC]

I H8 reading about these types of incidents happening with our vehicles. I was under the impression that when the chime/alarm comes on you still have enough breaking power/pressure to stop? So when the alarm came on you stepped on the brake pedal? And was it difficult to brake for 1000ft? Was the pedal difficult to depress? I’m sure this happened fast, but I think we would all like to know exactly how it happened. Glad you’re okay. Not a cool thing to have happened.

 

[2001LC]

Some alarms are hard to hear (weakened with age) especially with stereo on. But most time there are warning signs, like booster pump sound changing. It's been my understanding we do have some brakes, just need a very hard push at bottom of peddle stroke. Unless fluid loss, then we've nothing as no hydraulic pressure can be generated.

When I bleed rear brakes I'll hear the alarm go off as I reduce pressure by bleeding off fluid, way before level alarm sounds.

Reservoir being full indicates fluid was not lost. To have over max line indicates system was overfilled. I see 7 out of 10 overfilled, even when dealer maintained. Seem no one reads the procedure stated right on the reservoir. Does this cause damage to booster, master or ABS IDK. I do know the cap seals the reservoir, and overfilling is not a good idea.

The newest thing I'm checking during my inspection is check the leads for the ABS to booster pump. Here is one ABS unit I swapped out for a mud member this summer.
Leads are in very bad shape (Rust) This was from a clean 98 no rust w/150K miles. Edit: After leaving exposed to air, it dried in a matter of hours. I'm now convinced after seeing 100rds of master. Rust (corrosion) is a result of brake fluid getting into boot and on wires. This increases resistance. Which damaged motors commutator, causing premature booster motor failure.

I use a mirror to check by pulling boot back. On The king which I had 14 years the leads were fine. I note that because I washed engine bay at least 7 times over the years, thought that washing may be cause. Nope appears not the case.

Here I found something on my 07 Unicorn, which is a supper clean rust free rig, but can't tell what it is. So I'll be pulling Master assemble to get a better look. May just be a protective grease, may be leak or may be rust.

I also know there was an issue with after market brake fluid being add to some 04-06 (not series 100). IMHO it was from change in rubber formula to cut cost: Toyota DOT 3 Brake Fluid Composition ? I learned we can not get the same fluid that can with the 100 series from anywhere in the USA.

Safety Recall A0M – Preliminary Notice
2005 through 2006 Model Year Avalon Vehicles and
2004 through 2006 Model Year Highlander (Non Hybrid) Vehicles
Rubber Seal (Brake Master Cylinder Cup Replacement)
******URGENT******
On October 21, 2010, Toyota filed a Defect Information Report (DIR) with the National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration (NHTSA) informing the agency of our intent to conduct a voluntary Safety Recall on 2005 through
2006 Model Year Avalon Vehicles and 2004 through 2006 Model Year Highlander (Non Hybrid) Vehicles to
replace the Brake Master Cylinder Cup. This Safety Recall will also cover 2006 Lexus GS 300, IS 250, IS 350
and 2004 – 2006 Lexus RX 330.
Condition
• During vehicle assembly, Toyota uses brake fluids containing polymers that act as lubricants for certain
brake system components. If replacement brake fluid is used that does not contain such polymers, or
contain only small amounts, a part of the rubber seal (Brake Master Cylinder Cup) located at the rear of the
brake master cylinder may become dry, and the rubber seal may curl during movement of the piston. If this
occurs, a small amount of the brake fluid could slowly leak from the seal into the brake booster, resulting in
illumination of the brake warning lamp.
• If the vehicle continues to be operated in this condition, the brake pedal feel could change, and braking
performance could eventually begin to gradually degrade.
• Toyota original brake fluid which is applied at the manufacturing plant contains polymers and does not cause
this phenomenon

This recall is why I now use only Toyota brake fluid. Not doing so may damage seals inside master. Then when booster motor replaced. The ensuing pressure increase reveals bad seals. We then must replace Master!

 

[vanqu1sh]

I H8 reading about these types of incidents happening with our vehicles. I was under the impression that when the chime/alarm comes on you still have enough breaking power/pressure to stop? So when the alarm came on you stepped on the brake pedal? And was it difficult to brake for 1000ft? Was the pedal difficult to depress? I’m sure this happened fast, but I think we would all like to know exactly how it happened. Glad you’re okay. Not a cool thing to have happened.

When the alarm first sounded I depressed the brake pedal, the pedal felt normal, didn't sink to the floor or anything. I pressed it a 2nd time and noticed it felt much softer. Pressed the pedal a 3rd time after travelling a short distance, had no pedal resistance or ability to slow down. At this point I looked for a place to try and stop, hence ending up in the field next to the road. From the time the alarm sounded to no brakes I traveled about 1,000 ft by my estimation. I would definitely call it total brake loss, I noticed no resistance from the pedal or resistance from the pads grabbing the rotors.

Did some quick testing last night in the dark. I get some pedal resistance back after starting but when pressing the pedal it still sinks to the floor, just a little more resistance. The 2nd pump of the brakes offers no resistance and the pedal sinks to the floor easily when depressed. If I put my 100 in neutral while running, pressing the pedal to the floor offers no stopping ability either on 1st or 2nd brake press, vehicle begins to roll. Fluid level still above the max line.

I'm going to try and examine my leads on the ABS booster pump tonight depending on what time I can get home. Also will time how long the booster pump kicks on while the key is in accessory position. I may not have a chance to dig into to anything until Saturday though; working in the dark sucks and my 100 is too tall to fit in my garage.

Thanks to everyone for the assistance. I'll continue to post back with findings as I troubleshoot/replace items in hopes that it helps other members.

 

[Patineto]

I don’t wish that experience to anybody

Since my early mountain bike days I had that “panic” of my brake failing and I will check them constantly to the point they actually slow me down a little every time


It took me years to retrain my self to not press on them since I was racing (motorcycles too) but also became really good at making them work really well (a self postulate BrakeNazi)

Well a lesson to be learn, always keep your brakes in tip top shape so your don’t end up with a “ramming horn” the liabilities alone with dry you up

 

[2001LC]

When the alarm first sounded I depressed the brake pedal, the pedal felt normal, didn't sink to the floor or anything. I pressed it a 2nd time and noticed it felt much softer. Pressed the pedal a 3rd time after travelling a short distance, had no pedal resistance or ability to slow down. At this point I looked for a place to try and stop, hence ending up in the field next to the road. From the time the alarm sounded to no brakes I traveled about 1,000 ft by my estimation. I would definitely call it total brake loss, I noticed no resistance from the pedal or resistance from the pads grabbing the rotors.

Did some quick testing last night in the dark. I get some pedal resistance back after starting but when pressing the pedal it still sinks to the floor, just a little more resistance. The 2nd pump of the brakes offers no resistance and the pedal sinks to the floor easily when depressed. If I put my 100 in neutral while running, pressing the pedal to the floor offers no stopping ability either on 1st or 2nd brake press, vehicle begins to roll. Fluid level still above the max line.

I'm going to try and examine my leads on the ABS booster pump tonight depending on what time I can get home. Also will time how long the booster pump kicks on while the key is in accessory position. I may not have a chance to dig into to anything until Saturday though; working in the dark sucks and my 100 is too tall to fit in my garage.

Thanks to everyone for the assistance. I'll continue to post back with findings as I troubleshoot/replace items in hopes that it helps other members.

Sound like booster pump failure. I would have though you'd have some brake at bottom of pedal, albeit not much.. Hum Not Good!

 

[natehack]

Ours is currently at the shop because of this same issue, turns out it was a booster pump failure at 241k miles. Total loss of braking.

Very $$$$ repair.

Fortunately for us the brakes went in my sister in laws driveway...

 

[mkivtdi]

So, what's the solution, if any? "Hope it happens in your driveway and not at 75mph highway speeds" sounds like a crappy gamble -- especially since most people have significant years/miles on their rides..

Mine is at 234k and it has my favorite "brake feel" in my stable of cars. Smooth, firm, predictable.

 

[470SNC]

This is a common issue with high mileage 100s, happened to my wife luckily in a parking lot when the siren went off and brakes went out. Mine was the electronic brake booster pump that went out. I just replaced that booster pump and rig has been fine since.