Complete Stereo Overhaul (2 Viewers)

[Ermagerd]

I plan on upgrading the speakers and adding some sound deadener at the same time I pull my door panels to clean and grease the window mechanisms. I will be watching this thread for tips.

Not saying anyone in this thread is wrong, but before you emulate what anyone else is doing, gather some information about what you actually need to acoustically silence body panels versus general sound deadening (ie closed cell foam). It will potentially save you hundreds of dollars as well as valuable time. Here is a site for a man who is an industry expert in sound deadening- http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

[TheForger]

Well...I sent the Rockford Fosgate Prime and Kenwood KFC door speakers back. Considering I will be going with the JL W6v3 subwoofer and the 600w Kicker amp I thought it'd be best to go ahead and get another amp to give the door speakers a little extra power. I realize it's not much more power but it is more than the headunit alone would supply, so my new door speaker selection is as follows: Infinity Primus PR6500cs component system with tweeters in the front doors & Kicker 41DSC654 coaxials in the rear doors. All speakers will be powered by an Alpine MRV-F300 amp that pushes 50w RMS x 4 channels.

I think it's going to sound really good. I know that there isn't a lot of power going to the door speakers relative to the amount going to the subwoofer but all the speakers have a sensitivity of at least 90dB or above, and I think that will be plenty to get the vocals and midbass through. I believe this system will suit my tastes perfectly. On a brighter side, the Kenwood DDX-372BT is sitting in my garage as we speak If I find the time this weekend I will be putting that in myself.

 

[bwell]

JL W6's are a pretty awesome speaker's. I assume you are running one off of the amp? Anything higher amperage and I think you will have to start looking into wiring and additional battery/capacitor. I use to run two 10" w6's off of JL's 1000x1 mono block d amp wired down to 2 ohms.
One will definitely sound good in the 100.

 

[TheForger]

@bwell Yes, I will be running the single 10" W6 to a dedicated Kicker mono block d amp. I will wire the 4 door speakers to the Alpine amp, so I will have 2 amps in the truck. Just got to figure out the placement of them! I know I want the Alpine to replace the location of the stock amp, I just don't know whether I will attach the Kicker subwoofer amp to the enclosure or get creative and try to put it out of sight. I would like to go with the latter but I won't be able to decide that until I have the amp in my hand.

 

[GregLCA]

@bwell Yes, I will be running the single 10" W6 to a dedicated Kicker mono block d amp. I will wire the 4 door speakers to the Alpine amp, so I will have 2 amps in the truck. Just got to figure out the placement of them! I know I want the Alpine to replace the location of the stock amp, I just don't know whether I will attach the Kicker subwoofer amp to the enclosure or get creative and try to put it out of sight. I would like to go with the latter but I won't be able to decide that until I have the amp in my hand.

I bet if you rip out the factory subwoofer there will be plenty of open space in the rear quarter panel for an amp

-G

 

[TheForger]

I bet if you rip out the factory subwoofer there will be plenty of open space in the rear quarter panel for an amp

-G

I considered that but I'm worried about overheating. Do you see any problems with that? The amp does not have an internal fan to cool it.

 

[GregLCA]

I considered that but I'm worried about overheating. Do you see any problems with that? The amp does not have an internal fan to cool it.

Well, if you keep the subwoofer grille intact you basically have a huge open vent to the interior of the truck. That should let any accumulated heat escape... I wouldn't worry about it at all. If I end up doing a subwoofer/amp someday that's how I'd probably do it.


-G

 

[El Cid]

I considered that but I'm worried about overheating. Do you see any problems with that? The amp does not have an internal fan to cool it.

It would be an improvement over leaving it under the seat, if that''s the other option.

I was hesitant to remove the factory subwoofers from the left rear cargo area, but it ended up being an excellent place to mount a radio...the ventilation where that sub exists is as good as it's gonna get.

 

[larryt]

Here is what you are dealing with in the factory sub space. Maybe your Kicker will fit. Width could be your limiting factor here. Sorry about the huge photo I posted.

 

[SmoothLC]

If it's a digital amp and it will fit, it should be fine right?

Digital amps run pretty cool and the DS seems to have a lot of air space if you remove the sub.

 

[larryt]

If it's a digital amp and it will fit, it should be fine right?

Digital amps run pretty cool and the DS seems to have a lot of air space if you remove the sub.

I don't see why not. I tried to mount one there once, but the amp was way too big without cutting some sheet metal.

 

[ranma21]

Just like to add that if you like decent power boost with compact amp design in mind, you can consider the Alpine powerpack amp, you can literally install in any small amount of space and hide it. Not intent for high end install, but for regular to mid grade coax is plenty at 45rms x4 @ 4ohm.


http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

 

[TheForger]

Might get around to putting these in this evening if I get bored

 

[TheForger]

Well I never got around to installing the door speakers myself Being a full time student in the middle of exams makes it hard to find time for things like that. Anyway, almost all the components have come in. The only others I am waiting on is the metra harness for the headunit and the Alpine MRV-F300 which will be used to power the door speakers. Both of those are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Since I have almost no free time on my hands I will have a shop do the install for me hopefully around the beginning of next week...we'll see how it goes. They are reputable and I've had multiple buddies go there and they are happy with the work they had done.

Anyway, here are the components as they lie (the cardboard squares are rolls of extruded butyl rope that will be used on the door speakers and other locations around the truck).

 

[El Cid]

I don't see why not. I tried to mount one there once, but the amp was way too big without cutting some sheet metal.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/MD-Build...uge-Weldable-Galvanized-Sheet-56038/100248617

1. Buy this piece of metal from homedepot. It''s 12x12.
2. Find a metal fab shop to cut an inch or so, just enough to make it fit.
3. Drill holes as needed to secure to the frame mounts where the sub fit.

I don't recommend using the stamping method in the photo, but suggest using screws as it will certainly wear over time.
Any amp that will stand being mounted to that 12x12 plate ought to work..

 

[El Cid]

Forger, I can't speak to the other products, but that JL sub and Alpine amp should be as good as it gets...

 

[TheForger]

Went to pick up the cruiser today from the installer. The subwoofer amp is hidden where the stock sub enclosure would normally be, similar to the photo @El Cid posted as I provided that to the installer for a reference. Unfortunately, I couldn't get any pics of how they actually mounted it but I might later on when I go back and add the extruded butyl rope. One thing I found to be interesting was that the installer told me he had to leave the factory amp in place because "there are other power sources running through it and removing it could affect other components in the truck." He ended up mounting the speaker amp right next to it since it is so small. But what does that mean and is it even true? If you were to completely remove the factory amp would it harm other systems in the truck? Seemed odd but everything works great and the sound improvement is AMAZING! Here it is all said and done....sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. I can get some better ones with a real camera if anyone would care to see.

Sorry for the messy cargo area, I still need to get all those boxes out!

Alpine RUX KNOB so I can control the amount of bass without getting out of the drivers seat.

EDIT: If anyone is wondering if that interior cargo rack rattles due to the sub, it doesn't. Not even a single sound. I used the extruded butyl rope on all weld points for the tabs that hold the Quick Fist Clamps, a few dabs between the clamps and the mounting tabs themselves, and the angle iron brackets that support the rack itself. Not a single rattle and I am extremely satisfied with the sound quality and cleanliness of this install. I do plan on pulling the door panels in the next few weeks to inspect their installation technique and to use the butyl rope between the speaker mounting bracket and door panel itself. During that process I will also pull the drivers rear cargo panel where the sub amp is located and I will snap a few photos of how they installed it.

 

[El Cid]

it makes sense to me, the mount looks good and Im sure it sounds great!

Take a good look at the sub enclosure. It's small, puny and pre-internet practically. The best thing you can do is trash it. i think mounting that amp in the rear quarter panel is a great idea. There really is no downside to leaving the other amp in place so long as you're getting the benefits of the system.

I think the installer was nervous about screwing up anything still relying on that amp. It can be removed, but take him at his word, if he doesn't feel comfy, I wouldn't risk it. I take it you just bypassed that amp and only used the amp for the sub?

 

[TheForger]

it makes sense to me, the mount looks good and Im sure it sounds great!

Take a good look at the sub enclosure. It's small, puny and pre-internet practically. The best thing you can do is trash it. i think mounting that amp in the rear quarter panel is a great idea. There really is no downside to leaving the other amp in place so long as you're getting the benefits of the system.

I think the installer was nervous about screwing up anything still relying on that amp. It can be removed, but take him at his word, if he doesn't feel comfy, I wouldn't risk it. I take it you just bypassed that amp and only used the amp for the sub?

I supplied the Metra amp-bypass wiring harness to the installer and he confirmed that was the one they used when I picked up the truck. The Alpine speaker amp is either tucked right next to the factory amp or they moved the factory amp a few inches to make room for the Alpine amp, not sure as I haven't seen with my own eyes. The sub amp is in the factory subwoofer location.

After further investigation I found that they ran 2 power wires from the battery (as opposed to running 1 power wire from the battery and splicing another into that once inside the cab) since the 2 amps were on opposite ends of the truck. However, they did not run the grounds back to the battery so they obviously used a chassis ground somewhere, I'm assuming to save the trouble of punching addition holes in the grommets. I trust their judgment on the ground locations but is that a good/reliable way to run the system?

 

[El Cid]

I. However, they did not run the grounds back to the battery so they obviously used a chassis ground somewhere, I'm assuming to save the trouble of punching addition holes in the grommets. I trust their judgment on the ground locations but is that a good/reliable way to run the system?

My radio, which is mounted in the location of the sub is grounded to the chassis, so yeah, it should work.