Complete Stereo Overhaul (1 Viewer)

[larryt]

Definitely use a few of your CLD tiles for the door around the speakers.

A lot of people prefer component sets for the higher quality external crossovers and ability to "aim" the separate tweeters. I had a set of Infinity 6030s 6.5 components in my front doors and the tweeter is about as plug and play as it gets. Break the glued on factory tweeter off the mount and glue on the new one. I tried a set of MBQuart components first, but they needed more fab work to the pod and could not use the factory angled bracket. I have a set of JBL P660 components in there now and that tweeter fit as well.

 

[TheForger]

I didn't anticipate my selections to be this difficult but I finally placed the order for door speakers and headunit this evening. Since I don't need GPS I went with the Kenwood DDX372BT and for the speakers I went with Rockford Fosgate Prime R165-S components up front and Kenwood KFC-1665S coaxial in the rear. For now I will power the speakers using the 22w RMS (50w peak) preamp built into the HU. If I feel like I need more power I will go with another amp but for now I am sticking with what I got. Next up is the amp and sub and I might get those from a fellow MUD member, but that will be closer to May. I want to see just how well the HU + door speakers + CLD Tiles improves the sound quality inside the truck before adding all the bass.

 

[TheForger]

Does anyone have any experience with the JL Audio HO110-W6v3? I've been thinking about going that route and pairing it with a Kicker 12CX600.1 amp. I realize the price tag on the sub/enclosure is ridiculous but a bit of a bonus is coming my way so I am feeling like splurging on some aspect of this system. I'm just not sure if I want to put the extra cash into the sub/enclosure, headunit, or door speakers. Any thoughts?

 

[Ermagerd]

@TheForger Yesterday I replaced my front door speakers with Alpine type S components, and rears with type S full range. Those got hooked up to an Alpine Ktp-445u amp and Pioneer media receiver. I figured I'd be adding my amp and sub that I have laying in the garage. Once I set up the hu and amp, I can say (for once) that I'm completely happy with the system not having a sub. Point is, do the hu, amp, and speakers first and see how you like it. You can just save that money and apply it wherever you feel the system is lacking.

 

[GregLCA]

Does anyone have any experience with the JL Audio HO110-W6v3? I've been thinking about going that route and pairing it with a Kicker 12CX600.1 amp. I realize the price tag on the sub/enclosure is ridiculous but a bit of a bonus is coming my way so I am feeling like splurging on some aspect of this system. I'm just not sure if I want to put the extra cash into the sub/enclosure, headunit, or door speakers. Any thoughts?

It sounds like overkill.

Your door speaker setup is pretty modestly powered, especially if you are only going to power them from the head unit. A ported sub has a LOT of output and is going to overwhelm the rest of the system. Admittedly, with the sub-bass adjustment knob you can turn the sub WAY down to blend it in.... But at that point you have to wonder if spending all that money for a fancy sub/amp was really necessary.

Keep in mind, the work of a subwoofer is typically to provide the bottom two octaves of music (20Hz -80Hz) and then handoff the rest of the music to the door speakers who are really doing the lion's share of the work. If you've ever listened to a balanced system and turned off the door speakers.... You realize that the amount of "music" coming out of the subwoofer is actually pretty small. Yes, those low frequencies add some nice harmonics and realism to music, but I think most people spend WAY too much money and effort on subs, and not nearly enough effort on the quality and proper amplification of the door speakers (mid-bass and upper bass).

IMHO, the best place to spend money is on sealing up the doors....using high quality drivers that can handle high power...and then feeding them at least 50W - 100W each!!! I've built car systems like that in the past. They are really "lively" and "punchy" sounding. A LOt of drum sounds are in the 80Hz+ range where the door speakers operate...so when they have good power, they can move good amounts of air and really give you that hard drum hit sound. It is a very satisfying aspect of music, and I think a lot of people miss out on it and just end up with a bunch of low bass that shakes the windows and rear view mirrors.

If I were in your shoes, I'd install the new head unit and speakers and then assess how you like the sound. If it feels "thin" or "lazy" I'd probably add a really good 4-channel amp for those speakers first to wake them up.... Also, I'd make sure to crossover the amp/deck to remove all frequencies below around 80Hz since the speakers can't play them anyway, and it will waste a lot of power trying to do it.


Sorry for the long message. I hope it gave you some food for thought.

-G

 

[larryt]

That sub/amp combo is going to produce some serious output and should sound great in a balanced system. GregLCA is right, your front stage will likely be completely overwhelmed. That may be something you are OK with, depending on how you like your sound and what you listen to. Personally, I like at least 100-150 watts each to my front speakers (which does require door sealing and sound deadening if you don't like rattles) and 300-600 to my sub(s). If you pull the trigger, you might be itching for more system power soon. And that's the slippery slope that is car audio. Luckily, watts are cheap these days, especially if you shop somewhere other than Crutchfield.

 

[TheForger]

Update: The sound deadening process has begun! I only have a pic of the CLD Tiles down but I also added mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam to the cargo area and wheel wells. I didn't realize how much I would use so I ran out before I got to the doors. Time to place another order!

My official supervisor

The improvement of the stock sound system was immediate and the lack of vibrations and minimal road noise makes it feel like a whole new truck.

 

[SmoothLC]

Yea, it really does change the sound characteristics of the vehicle. Nice job.

And it looks like your supervisor is doing an excellent job of inspecting your work!

Don't know if you've already done this or are going to do it, but it's a great time to clean the rear carpet. I used a detergent on the carpet and then let it dry in the sun and it seemed to get all the nastiness out of it. Just a suggestion "while you're at it".

 

[LEX]

I used "Tuff Stuff" to clean all those hidden stains while it was out. It's awesome.

 

[GregLCA]

Update: The sound deadening process has begun! I only have a pic of the CLD Tiles down but I also added mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam to the cargo area and wheel wells. I didn't realize how much I would use so I ran out before I got to the doors. Time to place another order!
View attachment 1060384
My official supervisor
View attachment 1060386
The improvement of the stock sound system was immediate and the lack of vibrations and minimal road noise makes it feel like a whole new truck.

How hard was it to remove the interior trim panels? Any special tricks or surprises you learned? I'm assuming that your just start at the tailgate and just work your way inwards?

I was thinking seriously about deadening the ceiling as well, but I have a feeling that it's a more serious hassle to deal with the upper trim.

-G

 

[TheForger]

@GregLCA Correct, I started with the trim flap that covers the gap between the body and tailgate and worked my way forward. It wasn't hard at all, just remember to disconnect the cigarette lighter outlet on the drivers side cargo area! One thing I would consider doing next time before reassembling is putting a little epoxy on the clips to hold them to the inside of the trim pieces. A few of them came out when I was putting everything back together so that required me to tear it back again, fish out the clip, and put it back into place and hope it doesn't fall out again.

I have heard the ceiling headliner is a lot more difficult to deal with especially since you're upside down for most of the time. I've considered it but don't think I will sound deaden that area.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Update: The sound deadening process has begun! I only have a pic of the CLD Tiles down but I also added mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam to the cargo area and wheel wells. I didn't realize how much I would use so I ran out before I got to the doors. Time to place another order!
View attachment 1060384
My official supervisor
View attachment 1060386
The improvement of the stock sound system was immediate and the lack of vibrations and minimal road noise makes it feel like a whole new truck.

DAMN GOOD LOOKING CAT, I have a few 'supervisors' myself

 

[hankinid]

DAMN GOOD LOOKING CAT, I have a few 'supervisors' myself

My avatar agrees.

Steve

 

[El Cid]

I wouldn't mess with the ceiling, unless you plan on a full on replacement of the headliner material. That adhesive probably isn't forgiving.

 

[El Cid]

Forger, I was happy to yank out the puny subwoofers. In retrospect it was a waste to try and mount another in that space. The options for sound improvement. If you want my shortcut route, buy a .093 4 pin molex connector and just make a harness using the pins and connect your new sub to it and run the wire longer to the back. A bit of velcro and it will hold against the rear cargo gate and you can remove it when necessary.

 

[MattThompson]

@TheForger Yesterday I replaced my front door speakers with Alpine type S components, and rears with type S full range. Those got hooked up to an Alpine Ktp-445u amp and Pioneer media receiver. I figured I'd be adding my amp and sub that I have laying in the garage. Once I set up the hu and amp, I can say (for once) that I'm completely happy with the system not having a sub. Point is, do the hu, amp, and speakers first and see how you like it. You can just save that money and apply it wherever you feel the system is lacking.

How do you like that "power pack" amp? Those seem like a great way to add some power without being complicated? I'm assuming it feeds your speakers with enough power to sound as they should?

 

[GregLCA]

I wouldn't mess with the ceiling, unless you plan on a full on replacement of the headliner material. That adhesive probably isn't forgiving.

Do you mean that the headliner is glued to the ceiling....?...... Or that the factory sound deadening up there is not going to allow other adhesives to stick to it?

Is your suggestion to clean all the factory stuff off first (assuming I'm sadistic enough to to do the roof!) then start fresh?

Thanks!

-G

 

[Ermagerd]

How do you like that "power pack" amp? Those seem like a great way to add some power without being complicated? I'm assuming it feeds your speakers with enough power to sound as they should?

I love it, and it sounds great with the speaker combo. The only downside to that amp vs a 5 channel is that I have to have a second amp if I want to add a sub. For the first time in 16 years of owning vehicles, I feel it sounds good enough to not have to add a sub. Maybe I'm just getting old.

 

[El Cid]

Do you mean that the headliner is glued to the ceiling....?...... Or that the factory sound deadening up there is not going to allow other adhesives to stick to it?

Is your suggestion to clean all the factory stuff off first (assuming I'm sadistic enough to to do the roof!) then start fresh?

Thanks!

-G

If you're willing to use a replacement product if it doesn't work out, I say go for it. Just kknow that the age of that material and the adhesive isn't something that goes back on easily. I took out my carpet and was glad to see it go.
There are better replacement products, for sure.

 

[MattThompson]

I love it, and it sounds great with the speaker combo. The only downside to that amp vs a 5 channel is that I have to have a second amp if I want to add a sub. For the first time in 16 years of owning vehicles, I feel it sounds good enough to not have to add a sub. Maybe I'm just getting old.

Good to know! I didn't want to add an external sub but wanted a little more punch than what the factory offered. I guess leaving the factory dual 4" out won't really effect the sound.. Lol. I bought my truck with a pioneer AVH-x2600bt (I think)
and reverse camera already in it, but I have no clue what if anything was done with the factory amp or speakers..I plan on upgrading the speakers and adding some sound deadener at the same time I pull my door panels to clean and grease the window mechanisms. I will be watching this thread for tips.