Comparing steel to 7075 - drag link edition (1 Viewer)

[Delta VS]

Getting ready to pull engine from one of the shop 80s so figured this comparison would be best done before that.

This video compares relatively new (2-3000ish miles) OEM drag link to our 7075 drag link.

The difference is noticeable.

Decided to make these after a recent cross-state dirt road trip. While traversing a washed out section of road, had an incident with a flat rock in the middle of the road (so flat the diff didn't even touch it) that completely destroyed the tie rod. Due to @Outsane 's similar experience, figured there was a call for such things.

 

[scottryana]

Strong work!

 

[OffRoadScott]

Awesome. When I first watched the video I did not read the caption and was worried about the fluid leaking onto the blocks, then watched it again and read the caption now I know it is coolant.

I have always loved your stuff but haven't won the lottery yet to afford everything... LOL!!! But price usually reflects quality, buy once cry once.

 

[baldilocks]

I’m glad to know that 80 series rod ends possess such integrity as to survive this.

 

[Delta VS]

Awesome. When I first watched the video I did not read the caption and was worried about the fluid leaking onto the blocks, then watched it again and read the caption now I know it is coolant.

I have always loved your stuff but haven't won the lottery yet to afford everything... LOL!!! But price usually reflects quality, buy once cry once.

Ya, coolant from coolant system that is partially disassembled. And thanks!

I’m glad to know that 80 series rod ends possess such integrity as to survive this.

Do NOT take this as a challenge @baldilocks !!!

 

[calokie]

The 775 Al video... the popping-"eek" is that the threads in the Tie rod ends or the jack slipping? either way pretty awesome
Would be cool if your radius arms were 775 Al for additional flex

 

[Delta VS]

The 775 Al video... the popping-"eek" is that the threads in the Tie rod ends or the jack slipping?

Most certainly not threads, just slippage.

Would be cool if your radius arms were 775 Al for additional flex

This has definitely been hashed out multiple times. Cost outweighs benefit, in our minds.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I'm just mussing here...
But I can fix the steel on trail if I had to. Remove it and bend it back into shape with the trailer hitch and the winch or a couple of trees or ... whatever. Or remove it and take it to a shop and have it cut and sleaved.
But, perhaps the Aluminum one is tough enough it won't bend and need to be repaired though.
So if the Aluminum one is more failure resistant, what's the next fuse that breaks that the OEM unit is "protecting"?

 

[Delta VS]

I'm just mussing here...
But I can fix the steel on trail if I had to. Remove it and bend it back into shape with the trailer hitch and the winch or a couple of trees or ... whatever. Or remove it and take it to a shop and have it cut and sleaved.
But, perhaps the Aluminum one is tough enough it won't bend and need to be repaired though.
So if the Aluminum one is more failure resistant, what's the next fuse that breaks that the OEM unit is "protecting"?

No perhaps about it, the aluminum one is highly unlikely to bend. Still a great idea to carry the OEM one replaced by the AL one as a trail spare though.

I would argue by not bending, the aluminum one is not transferring any weird loads on things that shouldn't have loads on them. For instance, started to get concerned about the TREs "self clearancing" as the steel one was bending, as they were going far beyond where they should. That won't be happening with the AL rod. As far as what the next fuse will be, we will see.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Damn "pushers"! Always taking my money.

What's the weight delta between the AL and OEM?

 

[Kabanstva]

I bought these a few weeks back. Super impressive

 

[matzell]

I would be worried about the tie rod pulling out of the ball socket. I have seen that before. Like @Rusty Marlin said, I would rather be able to bend it back. With this said, I have 7075 lower links on my race car but went from 2" DOM to 2.5" 7075 to keep the threads from pulling out, and it has a hiem joint in doubel shear.


Is this a solid 7075 rod or a tube?

 

[Delta VS]

Damn "pushers"! Always taking my money.

What's the weight delta between the AL and OEM?

uuuuuh, sorrynotsorry?

DVS AL: 3.986 lbs
TOYOTA steel: 4.344 lbs

I would be worried about the tie rod pulling out of the ball socket. I have seen that before. Like @Rusty Marlin said, I would rather be able to bend it back. With this said, I have 7075 lower links on my race car but went from 2" DOM to 2.5" 7075 to keep the threads from pulling out, and it has a hiem joint in doubel shear.


Is this a solid 7075 rod or a tube?

There is an awful lot of thread engagement there, and one of the reasons we reutilize the OEM clamp around them instead of a jamb nut.

7075 is bar.

 

[matzell]

There is an awful lot of thread engagement there, and one of the reasons we reutilize the OEM clamp around them instead of a jamb nut.

7075 is bar.

So it is the same diam as the stock rod? I would think it might be weaker there than the oe, but maybe not. I understand the solid rod will be stronger. I am no scientist. So you take a solid rod, drill and tap it and cut a slice down it to clamp?

 

[Delta VS]

So it is the same diam as the stock rod? I would think it might be weaker there than the oe, but maybe not. I understand the solid rod will be stronger. I am no scientist. So you take a solid rod, drill and tap it and cut a slice down it to clamp?

Same diameter for just enough length to get the clamp on then goes up to 1.25" diameter.

Assuming the OEM steel is 1018 at best, yield strength could be as high as 53ksi (AISI 1018 Steel, cold drawn - https://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=3a9cc570fbb24d119f08db22a53e2421)

7075-t6 (our links) yield strength is 73ksi (ASM Material Data Sheet - https://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=ma7075t6)

7075 for an approximate 38% material strength increase.

 

[Delta VS]

So it is the same diam as the stock rod? I would think it might be weaker there than the oe, but maybe not. I understand the solid rod will be stronger. I am no scientist. So you take a solid rod, drill and tap it and cut a slice down it to clamp?

and as a footnote to previous post, that 38% increase is assuming same geometry, so only a small section of the threads are 38% stronger. the rest of the 7075 link is waaaaaaaaay stronk-er.

 

[Outsane]

Been trying to bend these, so far no luck

 

[LXDOC]

I was paying more attention to the lifting arrangement.

 

[Delta VS]

I was paying more attention to the lifting arrangement.

Says right there in the vid to not worry about it…

 

[scottryana]

I was paying more attention to the lifting arrangement.

Had wheels and tires on, no one under it, worst case scenario it falls off the jack and back on to the tires. No big deal. lol