Comfortable Leafs? (budget of course)

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Been doing quite a bit more pavement driving than I used to. I've decided that the stock springs+ long AAL are not as smooth as I would like. Suggestions (from personal experience of course) for a comfy/ don't break the bank, leaf option?:confused:

Thanks, KR
 
You're going to get a lot of varying responses on this based on exact vehicle configuration and personal preference. If at all possible try to find someone with a truck with the suspension that you're considering before you buy.

Here is what I've tried. 2.5" Alcans for stock weight FJ-60s, the same Alcans with the bottom 2 leaves in the rear replaced with softer leaves, the same plus helper air bags and OME (heavy front, med rear). In my experience the OMEs ride substantially better than any combination of the Alcans I had.

I'm currently about to pull the 3rd leaf from the bottom out of the rear packs. I found that while the med is a nice balance I really want it a bit softer and lower. I'm going to pull the 3rd leaf and run about 20psi in my air bags for normal conditions and 30-40psi when I've got weight in the back. If I didn't have air bags I'd run just mediums in the rear as is, they really are a nice balance between doing well when the truck is completely empty and carrying a couple of hundred pounds. But since I can optimize even more I'm going to :D
 
Get some longer than stock springs made from Alcan so your shackle angles is better. Once I weight down my cruiser and flex my OME springs the shackle angle is much better and so is the ride. I also put pieces of hard thin plastic between each leaf but it is hard to say how much it helps.
 
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Several OME responses. Are the Dakkar versions as smooth as the standard OME?

I thought are the same ride .. ( actually the same specs ) .. your best bet.
 
Wait a minute... Springs support the weight, that's all. The shocks control the ride. Unless your springs are dead and sagging, and your complaining that the ride is too soft, why would you go to a stiffer spring for a better ride? Unless yo want it to ride like a BMW, I would think the softer the better. Go get a set of stock, good condition FJ62 springs and a set of quality shocks, then strap on a FJ62 rear anti-sway bar, and you should be fine. What am I missing here???

Edit: you already have a FJ62 so no need to hunt down a anti-sway bar and you may just be able to take your springs in to get them reconditioned (checked for cracks, re-arc, new bushings, etc.)
 
Wait a minute... Springs support the weight, that's all. The shocks control the ride. Unless your springs are dead and sagging, and your complaining that the ride is too soft, why would you go to a stiffer spring for a better ride? Unless yo want it to ride like a BMW, I would think the softer the better. Go get a set of stock, good condition FJ62 springs and a set of quality shocks, then strap on a FJ62 rear anti-sway bar, and you should be fine. What am I missing here???

Edit: you already have a FJ62 so no need to hunt down a anti-sway bar and you may just be able to take your springs in to get them reconditioned (checked for cracks, re-arc, new bushings, etc.)

WTF??? Ramble On!
 
Wait a minute... Springs support the weight, that's all. The shocks control the ride. Unless your springs are dead and sagging, and your complaining that the ride is too soft, why would you go to a stiffer spring for a better ride? Unless yo want it to ride like a BMW, I would think the softer the better. Go get a set of stock, good condition FJ62 springs and a set of quality shocks, then strap on a FJ62 rear anti-sway bar, and you should be fine. What am I missing here???

Edit: you already have a FJ62 so no need to hunt down a anti-sway bar and you may just be able to take your springs in to get them reconditioned (checked for cracks, re-arc, new bushings, etc.)

The spring configuration determines the progresiveness of the spring rate. Since the stock springs are flat and only have just a few inches of travel to grudgingly surrender before they bottom out, they have an extremely progressive spring rate whereas a set of OMEs has almost double the travel to give and are, in fact, less progressive and therefore move more freely throught thier range of travel absorbing the imperfections of the road instead of making the vehicle move. Shocks play a large part, but they are for dampening, not weight supporting and they cannot change the characteristics of the spring. For the record, haveing tried reacrching twice in the past with a Toyota truck, I will give that process an "F". It's a srping, it has memory and it will shortly return to it's original shape unless a heating process is used which is rare. The stock 60 springs I would rate as a "D". Passing, but just barely. The OMEs get an "A". The ride quality and durability are unbeatable. I don't like stabilizer bars because they hinder articulation. I threw mine in the trash 11 years ago. I've posted at great lengths before my experience and opinions of various shocks. Having learned through trial and error how to valve shocks and forks for my CR500 and other dirt bikes, I took that knowledge and went straight to the Bilstein 5100 series that I can valve for myself. As far off-the-shelf shocks go, my favorites (based on ride quality only) were the Skyjacker softride Nitros. These have nearly perfect dampening rates for FJ60s. MEASURE!!! Do not accept a shock without knowing the extended and collapsed length of the shock and compare this carefully to the dimensions you obtain from measuring your Cruiser. Most of the time, the reference material for Landcruisers with regards to aftermarket stuff is wrong.
 
First off, I don't know of any budget kit with a great ride and good long term track record. I'm happy with the OME heavies, both with an empty and loaded truck. The cheapest way to get the OMEs is to buy the leaves and shocks and then buy non-OME u-bolts and shackles.

I would highly recommend the greasable shackles for a softer ride. The grease does get forced out over time, and it really softens up a bit when I shoot some new grease in there.
 
Been doing quite a bit more pavement driving than I used to. I've decided that the stock springs+ long AAL are not as smooth as I would like. Suggestions (from personal experience of course) for a comfy/ don't break the bank, leaf option?:confused:

Thanks, KR

I'm sorry to hear this as I have been collecting parts to create a similar setup as yours; clear 33s, keeping it low and functional for little $... blabla.

IIRC you are running longer than stock shackles and Long AALs.....

Maybe you could run shorter shackles and improve the rig's manners that way...

or...

Play with some junkyard spring packs... see if you can find a different main spring and build something slightly longer which complements your current shackle angle.

move your shackle hangers....

alcons..

you have done some cool things with your truck and clearly have the skill to get it how you want. Thanks for posting your builds.:beer:
 
how much lift did you get with the AALs?

apparently enough to get 35s? are they really that bad? from MAF? if you sell em', let me know.
 
WTF??? Ramble On!

Let me get this straight, you ask a question regarding budget suspension for a better ride on the street. I respond by asking/stating that, in my opinion, a budget setup would be restoring the stock ride to original specs and adding a good set of shocks. Everyone else says OME, OME, OME. If all you wanted was the same answer over and over again without any other options why didn't you just get a hold of a salesman working off of commission in a store that only sales one brand? I'm not arguing that OMEs and Bilsteins aren't a better setup than stock, by the way, I've just never heard of that set-up as being referred to as budget

Lehiguy at least responded with an explanation as to why the OMEs are better than stock for street driving. But he mentions leaving off the anti-sways, which I disagree with, for street driven cars; get the disconnects if you do dual duties with the rig. Although the flatter spring rate of the OMEs might compensate for the lack of anti-sway bars.

Apparently six sentences about suspension function and my humble opinion of it was too much for you. You should really get back on those ADD meds.
 
Haystee Parabolic. Awesome ride, can be made to account for different parts on your truck i.e. heavy, light, towing, etc. Excellent shackles, angles, etc. These can be matched with a number of shocks that are readily available for a satisfactory ride. They don't offer correction for the sway bars. My rear was ditched long ago and my front is now disconnected. I'll put on 400 miles or so tomorrow, mostly highway and county roads. I'll know when I get back if I have to make up some sway bar links or not. I suspect they will be best for the interstate travel I do daily.


HST Parabolic Suspension Systems
 
The front sway bar links are only $15 at MAF. I've also seen similar ones at Autozone, but I didn't measure them to see if they're long enough.
 
Apparently six sentences about suspension function and my humble opinion of it was too much for you. You should really get back on those ADD meds.

Sorry man, I can be a bit of an ass somtimes. I guess I failed to reckognize the contribution you are making here on mud. I will pay a little more attention to yours, and others, inputs from now on. I think I will get back on the full meds as well; I have only been taking a 1/2 dose lately. Thanks again.
 
The front sway bar links are only $15 at MAF. I've also seen similar ones at Autozone, but I didn't measure them to see if they're long enough.

MAF, BDS etc are to short. I netted 6" of lift. It's really simple, two bolts, two sleeves and washers, bushings and nuts. 10 minutes in the garage. Thanks though.
 

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