Combining vent window switches?

[shtbrwn86]

Maybe this is a dumb idea but I use my vent windows a bunch and would love to combine them into a single switch like I've seen on some minivans. I never open just one. I always open both. Any reason why this wouldn't work? I might see if I can disconnect one switch and temporarily jumper it to the other one and see if a single switch can open both windows. That would have the added benefit of freeing up a spot for another switch. Of course my OCD would drive me crazy if the switch said "Rear Vent R" but I could probably live with it.

Edit: Google image search found this switch from a Sienna. Wonder if it would fit the opening? It's not the same style as the other switches, but if it fits it might accomplish what I want.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also found this from a different model Sienna....Looks even better!

 

[shtbrwn86]

I'd like to make this plug and play since I hate hacking into wires. I would ideally like to make two harnesses for the rear window switches to plug into, and combine them into one that plugs into the sienna switch.

 

[jlm43]

What does the back of the second one look like? It may be made for two different circuits already. That would make it super simple. Otherwise, you’re going to want to see how much juice is running through each of your window circuits. Then see what the new switch is rated for. If it can handle the load, it should be fine for tying them together on one switch.

 

[GTV]

I support this idea.

I recently modified my switches to mimic the direction that the windows open but I like your idea a lot. I always open both of mine as well.

Grab a couple switches and try it out!

 

[bobcatag2006]

I’m following this because I’m the same way. I never open just one and would love to to know what solution you find.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I just do this free thing with my hand to open both windows at the same time

 

[shtbrwn86]

What does the back of the second one look like? It may be made for two different circuits already. That would make it super simple. Otherwise, you’re going to want to see how much juice is running through each of your window circuits. Then see what the new switch is rated for. If it can handle the load, it should be fine for tying them together on one switch.

Here is the back of the switch. Looks like it's not split to two circuits. How would I go about testing the draw on the circuits? Is the failure point in this plan the switch? If the switch in the Sienna really does power both windows at once then I would think it could handle the two motors on the LX as well. The motors are different part numbers but I would be surprised if Toyota made the motors on the LX/LC higher draw than the Sienna. I think the Sienna windows might even be bigger. And these things open sideways, not up and down like a normal window so I am guessing the draw is less.

There is a wrecking yard nearby that has an LX and Sienna so I think I am going to go out there on Saturday and see if the switches are still there. I'm happy to mess with this to see if we can get it to work but I will definitely need some help with the electronics!

H

 

[shtbrwn86]

I just do this free thing with my hand to open both windows at the same time

Where's the fun in that? My budget is $10 for this project. I need to be careful though. I told my wife about this and I said "but the Sienna has ONE button to control both windows!" and she was like "So should we get a Sienna then?"

 

[mdcoa]

Might be helpful: I discovered while troubleshooting a non-working vent window motor that the R and L switches are wired the exact opposite of each other. FSM only shows the left one, and the right one's continuity is the reverse of what's in the FSM.

 

[Ayune]

The Sienna switch’s front bezel is not the style that fits into our dash openings. However, the switch’s “REAR VENT” label is just a sticker that can likely be moved over to our switch... looks to be the same size.

 

[Ayune]

Here’s the wiring diagram. If you piggyback the wires to pins 3 and pins 5 onto one switch, then both windows will open together.

I know you said you don’t want to alter the wiring, but getting a custom Y-harness made up with the proper connectors is gonna cost.

 

[jlm43]

The wiring diagram looks correct for the desired result.

To measure the current, you will need an ammeter. It will give your reading in amps. To do this, you have to disconnect one lead from the switch and put the ammeter leads in line with the circuit. Basically, you use the ammeter to complete the circuit you just broke. The current will pass through the ammeter giving you your reading. If it's pulling 5 amps, you'll want a switch that's rated for at least 10 amps. 15 amps would be better as it would allow for spikes.

 

[shtbrwn86]

While searching on this, I came across this GX thread where they were talking about adding LX/LC power vent motors to their GX. Lots of good information in here

Anyways, yeah, the Sienna switch body is too big to fit, but the button itself is the right size I think. I am going to pull the two LX switches off one in a junkyard to play around with. Don't want to wreck my current switches/wiring.

 

[shtbrwn86]

The wiring diagram looks correct for the desired result.

To measure the current, you will need an ammeter. It will give your reading in amps. To do this, you have to disconnect one lead from the switch and put the ammeter leads in line with the circuit. Basically, you use the ammeter to complete the circuit you just broke. The current will pass through the ammeter giving you your reading. If it's pulling 5 amps, you'll want a switch that's rated for at least 10 amps. 15 amps would be better as it would allow for spikes.

Thanks for that. I will take some measurements this weekend. My concern is the draw when it fully opens or closes. Isn't that when it spikes?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Here’s the wiring diagram. If you piggyback the wires to pins 3 and pins 5 onto one switch, then both windows will open together.

I know you said you don’t want to alter the wiring, but getting a custom Y-harness made up with the proper connectors is gonna cost.

View attachment 2568748

This is very helpful Thanks! I know you said it's going to get expensive to make a proper Y harness. I wonder if I could dissect a second set of switches to get at the connector inside? Might not be worth the hassle though. I could use some posi-taps or something to connect the two motors to one switch and call it good.

So in a scenario like this do I risk damaging anything? Say the draw is too much for the switch. If I burn out the switch, not a huge deal. If I pop a fuse, not a big deal. Any other risks with trying this?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Any updates on this?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Any updates on this?

None yet. Had to do all new ball joints/control arms/cv axles which took priority over the "fun stuff"

 

[WreckDiver1321]

Watching this one to see where it goes. With that diagram, it would make it easy to bridge the two. I may do that myself and figure out how to relabel the switch. Having another blank to use for other stuff would be nice. Not necessary, but nice.

 

[shtbrwn86]

It's been a while since I posted this and I did some digging on how to make a harness using the proper connectors and there's just no way will be cost effective, especially using the repair wires from Toyota. I am going to look into jumpering the wires per @Ayune suggestion earlier.