Clutch Slave questions on a BJ-74

[skinny]

I beleive my clutch slave went today. Basically my clutch pedal goes to the floor with pretty well no resistance, and of course I can't get it into gear. Unfortunately this required a tow home ( I really hate having a landcruiser towed ).

Anyway I have a couple of questions:
- does my diagnoses sound about right?? It is -20 here at the moment so a little too cold to have a look however I noticed a small puddle of fluid underneath the truck right about where the slave would be.
- Secondly is the slave on a Bj-74 the same as a 70 series? I read on another post that someone thought it was but did not seem to confirm?
- Lastly what type of fluid do you guys recommend using to top up my clutch after I replace the slave?

Thanks for your help!!
Todd

 

[lumpy70]

Yes it definitely sounds like the slave.

4 Wheel Auto is a good source (I got mine there), and it's quite an easy fix.

I believe they're the same given the same tranny.

If you don't do any water crossings, I'd go synthetic for the fluid.

Craig.

 

[skinny]

Thanks Craig,

I will order a slave tomorrow.

Todd

 

[skinny]

So I replaced the slave (or release cylinder as Toyota likes to call it) and the truck is back on the road. It was about $105 CDN including tax from Toyota, thanks to our clubs discount, so not too bad.

I also had to replace my batteries this week as well. I decided to go for the optima red tops. Not a good week for the cruiser. Good thing I bought a rust free, low km JDM so I would not have to do work on a cruiser for a while and just drive it .

Oh well the joy of owning a cruiser.

Thanks for yor help.
Todd

 

[Tapage]

I always have a spare slave .. but anycase is very easy start it and drive making a speeds changing without clutch ..

 

[crushers]

one trick all manual diesel owners should learn...
you can wheel for a whole day and drive back home with no slave... all it takes is timing and a bit of practice... sure makes the trails more interesting...
cheers

 

[Stone]

It was about $105 CDN including tax from Toyota, thanks to our clubs discount, so not too bad.

Todd

That sounds about $20 higher than what I paid at JP Toyota (I vaguely recall $65 CAD + taxes)...but at least you got her fixed.

 

[skinny]

Really Wayne and DAvid?? YOU can drive the truck with out the slave??? I triedn to jam it into first to at least get me going so I could get home and it was not happening?? Granted I did not try to hard as I thought I may damage.

You same timing and practice?? BUt there must be a bit of a trick to it??

Please share?

Hey Stone, that is strange that the Toyota dealer locally was more expensive than yours. Typically I have found that the prices quoted from you guys out west are exactly the same as what it is here in Ottawa??? The funny thing is they bought the part in from Vancouver??? Oh well as you mentioned I got her fixed and I am now waiting for the next thing to break . My wife doesn't quit understand why I won't sell the 60 and only have one cruiser. 2 cruisers is a minimum and 3 would be ideal !!!!!!!

Thanks,
Todd

 

[rikard]

you need to start the car when its in 1st gear. At the right speed and idle you can shift to next gear without clutching. Sometimes I driver for long distance without tuching the pedal. Rally drivers are trained to not use the clutch. Try, but not use force. When you hear sound of gear find another gear

 

[crushers]

what i do is shift the tcase into low, start engine in first gear L then once the truck is rolling shift into H and as the rpms head up a carefull non-grinding shift into thte next gear. (you might need to "blurp" the throttle to reduce the gear bind) you need to wait for the rpms to drop a bit after pulling out of the gear before shifting into the next gear up. once youa re good at it there is NO gear grind at all, just L1 start, rev up to about 1500, clutch, allow the rpms to drop down to about 800, click into H1 then up to 2200, click, out of gear, drop to about 1000, click, into second and so on through the gears.
when gearing down, yep it works both ways, you are in 4th when you are at about 1000 , click into neutral, rev to about 2500 and let off the gas, pull back on the shifter with 2 fingers and when the rpms pass the right range the gear shifter will pop inot 3rd smoothly, down to 2500, into neutral and then with 2 fingers gently head for 2nd. when the rpm drops to the right range then click it pops into 2nd and so on. try and stay in gear in creep up to the light ready to turn off the ignition should you have to come to a complete stop.
once you get good at it, it is a neat thing to show off with but nost of all it will allow you to get home on your own power should the master lines or slave crap out on you...
or as it happened to me one time, the plunger popped out of the housing and off the fork in the middle of hte bush... wheeled the rest of the day and drove home with no clutch...
BTW, the rpms in the post are a guestimate not actual...it has been quite a while since i had to drive like this...

 

[Tapage]

I'm not sure if I can write it appropiate in english .. but the most importat thing is your ear ..

Listen your engine ( or use the rpm ) and when you are in right range you can shift to the next speed so easy .. one finger is all that you need to do that.

I need to do a lots of pracitce, most in the more strong speed as 1 - 2 and some time 3.

Start your practice sesion with 4 and 5 gear .. when you are skillful with both start with 3 gear .. and so on to 1st gear the most dificul.

Al you graduation point in this art you care able to gear at very low speed in 1st gear.

 

[brownbear]

I had a car I used to be able to downshift with out a clutch. Going up was no problem. But I did have a clutch to start it all in 1st. Otherwise the low gear thing would work fine.

 

[skinny]

Thanks guys for the info. Now I have to get practicing to save me a tow next time the slave or master goes for a crap.

Thanks again,
Todd