Clutch retainer broken? (1 Viewer)

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Hello all!

Today I finally was able to remove my BJ60 transmission. I did this because, the truck wouldn’t go in gear, the clutch would not operate, it wouldn’t disengage, and would grind gears. Ouch!

Now, my truck has 320,000, KM on it, seems a little to low for the clutch to have blown up randomly, Somethings defiantly broken that’s not the clutch ( at least I suspected ). Anyways, when I pulled the transmission, I can see the what I think is the retainer, that is connected to the slave cylinder. It will freely move around loosely, it’s very weird because i thought it was supposed to stay in place and put load onto the pressure plate…. I really don’t know much about these clutches is this the source of my problem or is this normal? Please see the picture
/video below.

Video of movement.



7D91C82B-8FF6-403D-945D-271D5616BB15.jpeg
 
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did you do any other diagnosis before removing the trans?
is the clutch master and slave working?
the throw out bearing slides on the long tube around the input shaft of the transmission.
it will be loose and move around now because it is just on a ball pivot and nothing is holding it in place until the transmission is back in place.
 

OSS

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As @3_puppies said.
That’s normal when pulling the transmission that way.
Normally (the best way) is to pull out the two little spring clips that hold the fork to the hub before pulling out the transmission.
But how you have it is fine — just pull it out and take it apart. The big throw-out bearing on the hub needs to be replaced anyway (using a press).

While the clutch disc friction surfaces can last a very long time if you’re a gentle shifter, the pilot bearing is probably the weakest link and when that starts to bind, shifting gets rough.
 
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did you do any other diagnosis before removing the trans?
is the clutch master and slave working?
the throw out bearing slides on the long tube around the input shaft of the transmission.
it will be loose and move around now because it is just on a ball pivot and nothing is holding it in place until the transmission is back in place.
Oh, I really didn’t expect it to move. I bled and the master, and adjusted the slave. Still nothing, issues is in the clutch somewhere.
 
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Okay, thanks guys. To my understanding this retainer wasn’t supposed to move. So I was quite sure it was broken. Thanks for clarifying….. and also, don’t worry I’m a smooth operator! 😆🎶🎼
 
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I’m thinking all that oil and grease all over the clutch assembly isn’t helping matters any.
I agree, not sure how it got so greasy, however all the clutch components I can see don’t look oily. This thing is absolutely covered in oil, never see a vehicle leak so much.
 
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Oh, I really didn’t expect it to move. I bled and the master, and adjusted the slave. Still nothing, issues is in the clutch somewhere.

so the slave was moving properly before hand?

did you happen to check the shifter seat? it is what the shift stalk rides on in the top of the trans.
 

g-man

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for clarity's sake...here is a schematic of the clutch and release fork...so we can use the right words to describe what is going on. The slave cylinder is NOT in the image but pushes on the narrow end of the fork. Was the return spring in position on the narrow end of the fork? Was the fork positioned on the pivot ball ? (on the mid section of the fork} When you say "slave cylinder" do you mean the throw out bearing (bottom left...31231A) and hub are not staying in place against the clutch?

1652264052896.png
 
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When I went to test drive mine, it wouldn't shift properly and the guy was saying this wasn't normal. Ground a few gears. I knew right away it was a clutch hydraulic issue since I just did this with my 4runner and went underneath and sure enough the slave was leaking. Replaced that and drove it away into the sunset.
 
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Okay, to answer some of your questions yes, I bled and checked the slave, I even had my uncle who is a diesel mechanic to help me adjust the clutch. Still nothing but a quiet grinding noise. All the linkage seems to work okay. Nothing seemed obviously wrong.

Yesterday I managed to pull the engine and discovered why the clutch stopped working, IT BROKE OFF THE PLATE. When I pulled off the cover, it literally just fell right off.

Not sure how this happened, but I’m assuming that someone gave er’ the old clutch drop, and it broke the friction disk right off. So real shame, I was going to buy a clutch anyways.

AFBDCFB0-A8FF-4BE9-9919-757D0C5567B1.jpeg


29189B7F-C616-41C9-929E-02C745C77807.jpeg
 

OSS

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interesting that it exploded like that, but yeah, all the clutch parts needed to be replaced anyway- past due, so no biggie.
Be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced and use the Toyota pilot bearing if you can still get it. (Don’t buy an aftermarket clutch kit).
 
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interesting that it exploded like that, but yeah, all the clutch parts needed to be replaced anyway- past due, so no biggie.
Be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced and use the Toyota pilot bearing if you can still get it. (Don’t buy an aftermarket clutch kit).
I’m sorry…. Where on earth do you get OEM parts? there is a place near me that imports JDM parts not OEM it’s the closest I can get.
 

OSS

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All genuine Toyota clutch parts may no longer be available but some of them will. On USA FJ60, Toyota still sells all the clutch parts (of at least they did 5 years ago).

What you need first is Toyota part numbers for the parts you want to replace. You can find them at the website linked below.
Once you’ve got the Toyota part numbers, then search for them at your favorite Toyota parts vendor (Megazip etc) if they aren’t available in North America.

 

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