I need to replace my clutch and was wondering if anybody had any good or bad possibilities. Of course as it started to fail I was lucky enough to get every redlight in my struggle to get home. Thanks for your help.
Clutch Replacement
- Thread starter Sliderule
- Start date
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are you wanting to know how to do it?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! How do you know it's the clutch that is bad? It could be either or both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, both of which are much easier and cheaper to fix than the clutch. John
If you're looking to buy a replacement clutch, I purchased a clutch kit from Marlin Crawlers and am very happy with it. The kit included a clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool. This kit uses OEM disc and plate, and the plate provides a few hundred more ft-lb pressure than the stock clutch. I think it cost around $185, which is probably cheaper than the generic brand clutches you could buy from your local auto parts store.
Don't forget to have your flywheel surfaced at a machine shop.
You'll have to pull the tranny/tcase. While you've got your rig apart you might as well replace the rear main seal, and replace the cam and oil gallery plugs if they look like they're leaking or rusting.
Don't forget to have your flywheel surfaced at a machine shop.
You'll have to pull the tranny/tcase. While you've got your rig apart you might as well replace the rear main seal, and replace the cam and oil gallery plugs if they look like they're leaking or rusting.
my clutch threads have some good pics and other people deposited a bunch of tips:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197558-3b-clutch-job-pics-questions.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197872-last-chance-save-me-myself.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197558-3b-clutch-job-pics-questions.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197872-last-chance-save-me-myself.html
- Thread starter
- #6
I am going to try my best to replace it myself.
I am pretty sure it is the clutch. It shifted fine but regardless of RPM's it would slowly creep along until I had to shift again. At speed it would maintain but of course I hit every red light.
I am pretty sure it is the clutch. It shifted fine but regardless of RPM's it would slowly creep along until I had to shift again. At speed it would maintain but of course I hit every red light.
If you do replace the clutch, make sure you replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing while you're there. The pilot bearing can be a pain to remove. And as somebody already said, replace the rear main seal. Do these all at once and you won't have to go through the pain again for a long time.
EDIT: Somebody already said it!
EDIT: Somebody already said it!
A buddy of mine just helped me remove the pilot bearing and here's the trick he used. Find a bolt or shear pin or something that will fit perferctly in the pilot bearing. Take some grease and start packing it full. Once you have it packed tight take the bolt and hammer and start hammering the grease. Keep packing and keep hammering... The grease forces the bearing right out. It took him about 5 re-packs and wham! Bearing popped right out! Of course he left me with the cleanup, but hey, I didn't have a tool to pull it and no damage was done. Pretty slick!
This doesn't always work. I've also heard the same trick, but with bread instead of grease.
When I tried it, it ended up blowing the shields out of the bearing and squirting grease all over me. I suspect this only works for the very loosest pilot bearings.
Beats the hell out of me??? This was my first clutch job
....That's the reason I called him. He's done a few in his time.... I mean he didn't beat the hell out of it..... Like I said it took him 4 ro 5 packs before it popped out... who would put bread in there anyway?? Damn! I thought I letting sliderule in on a cool tip... Sorry sliderule, didn't mean to hijack your thread....
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One night after much frustration I dreamed this up. It took all of 3 minutes with a hacksaw...Grind the head til it fits into the bearing, saw a weddge from some junk steel, put a nut on it, drive it into the hole in the pilot bearing, the wedge spreads the head... put a large socket and washer and nut on the threads and draw it out. No mess, no slipping out like other carriage bolt methods... it just comes out.
There are many methods for removing the pilot bearing. A search will uncover the carriage-bolt method, grease/bread packing method, etc. I prefer to borrow a pilot bearing puller (slide hammer and attachment) from Autozone. Yes, they lend tools! AutoZone.com | In Our Stores | Free Loan-A-Tool Program The puller I borrowed from them was too large for the opening, so I put one half of it in and wedged a screwdriver in to take up the remaining space. Worked like a charm.
That's what I love about this board. Tons of good info and everyone is willing to help out!
