Clutch Master cylinder

[AlexJet]

I need a new Clutch Master cylinder for my FJ40.
I found that there are 3 different models (part numbers) for them:
'70-'74
'75-'80
'80-'84
What is the difference between those cylinders?
'70-'74 are nearly twice as expensive as other 2.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

I can't tell you the difference, but the price difference has probably the same cause and effect as early and late brake rotors.
There are a lot more vehicles on the road that take the later brake rotors so the early brake rotors are becoming either unavailable or very expensive.

 

[AlexJet]

I checked with Kurt at CruiserOutfitters. He saying the 70-80 looks the same and are 3-bolt mount. 80+ are 2-bolt mount. Meanwhile he is not aware if early 70s are interchangeable with late 70s. Even they looks the same, internals may be different.

Did anyone swap Master Cylinders between pre-75 and aft-75 FJ40s? What was the outcome? Have you experience any difference?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The 74-earlier master is a weird old design. If possible use the modern 75-80 MC. A new hardline has to be bent to fit due to a different fitting angle.

Old 74 design. Guts install behind giant nut rusted into end of MC:

Modern type:

 

[Nutoreeus FOB]

just upgrade my to 75-80 type. Bought a new 20" hardline from Napa for $6 and bend it to fit. Gain little bit more room in that corner

 

[bikersmurf]

Got a rebuild kit for my 74 from Beck Arnley, was able to rebuild it while it was still in the truck. Worked like a charm, it was very complete, and was very affordable.

 

[bikersmurf]

BTW replace your slave also.

 

[AlexJet]

I've just replace Slave Cylinder with my "new" transmission.

 

[bikersmurf]

Still running F/2F?

With SBC, watch clutch slave/master parings, different bore diameters can make the Chevy clutch have enough travel... Or not. (SOR has diameters listed in their rebuild part listings.)

 

[AlexJet]

Still running F/2F?

With SBC, watch clutch slave/master parings, different bore diameters can make the Chevy clutch have enough travel... Or not. (SOR has diameters listed in their rebuild part listings.)

No, its 5VZ-FE with R150F.

 

[handcannon]

Somewhere, in the back of my memory, I remember reading that the older style single circuit brake master cylinder makes a good, larger capacity clutch master. Supposedly this is for those SBC swaps where the stock Toyota clutch master is barely adequate.

Is my memory playing tricks on me, or is my memory actually working for a change?

I've been collecting parts for a 6.2 diesel swap and if this is correct I may decide to get one of these MCs to have on hand for when the swap finally takes place.

Don

 

[huminajumina]

Clutch master....

This is a pic of a few I had in my basement....

The closest one was my oem clutch master cylinder, and the middle one is the new single circuit brake master I bought, the furthest away is what my original brake master used to be... Not sure if any of these help anything or if they are even correct parts, but you can kinda see some of the differences, the old breake masters had a line in the front, they clutch master had that wierd crazy elbow, which it looks like some one adapted from 9mm to 10mm....and my current clutch master is the newer style with the elbow on it again, b/c it was like $20 on rock auto.... Whatever you choose, just remember some of these are going to be 9mm lines right?? so if you have to go back to them, they are hard to find...whereas you can always adapt anything to a 10mm b/c they are more readily avaliable....


mehhh, I am babbling....

 

[handcannon]

Thanks for posting the pics.

I decided to do a little Rockauto research about the early master cylinder, 1966 and 1970 specifically. I found some curious info. I know Rockauto is not considered part of the early Toyota "go to" info specialists, but it was a quick and easy place for me to get to on line. They did show a different location for the brake line to thread into, directly on the end of the bore.

I couldn't get much definitive info about the early clutch MC size, except that maybe it is about 13/16ths" bore and 1 3/32" pushrod depth.

The early single circuit brake MC is a 1" bore, for both FJ 40 and FJ55. However, the FJ40 has an exit port of 9 X 1mm and a pushrod depth is 1.45". The FJ55 has a listed exit port of 10 X 1mm and a 1.40 pushrod depth. I've always been under the impression that ALL early brake systems were 9mm fittings, yet Rockauto lists the FJ55 as having 10mm fittings. Am I losing my mind?

If Rockauto is correct then the FJ 55 brake MC would be an easy one to re-purpose as a clutch MC. If not, it would be back to adapting from 9mm to 10mm.

Don

 

[bikersmurf]

I wouldn't got to the 1" Brake master unless you really need the extra travel. The stock 74 slave and master combo gives enough travel to handle a Luk 11" clutch with travel to spare. Newer masters have smaller bores limiting travel. The brake master will increase required brake pedal force.

If you're running a stockish clutch, you've got less to worry about.

 

[handcannon]

biker, thanks for the info about the 74 MC and slave.

So far I'm just collecting info and parts. I don't know at this time just when I'll be able to start the swap. I have the time, but not the money.

Don

 

[bikersmurf]

You'll find you've either got the time, the money, or neither... Or at least that's been my experience.


I like how easily the early MCs are rebuilt... Even while still in the truck. My .02

 

[handcannon]

With this info I will try my current clutch MC. I replaced the Clutch MC and slave a few years back, and not a lot of miles on them yet, so I'll just set on them.

Without going out to visually see which version I have I don't remember what I put in there. My memory says that I updated to newer in my 71 FJ40. I definitely remember changing out the hardline to all flex down to the slave which is on the drivers side of the BH.

It is NASTY outside right now, wind blowing the rain sideways, so I think I'll wait until later to go look. When the time/money happens to match up I'll change them IF they don't work as needed.

Don

 

[bikersmurf]

It has just occurred to me that 20 years ago, long before the SBC conversion, I replaced the stock rubber flex line with a stainless steel braided line... Less give in the line would equal more movement in the slave cylinder... Just a hairbrained theory.

That said, the 20 year old custom made line still looks brand new, was available the same day, and cost half of what a new rubber line would have. So either way, I'd recommend one over a stock line if you need to replace it.

 

[handcannon]

The flex line I used has a SS braided exterior. The clutch MC, slave, and line were all replaced at the same time several years ago. This was before I had learned about the positives of braided SS flex line.

Don