Clutch Master Cylinder 51...rebuild or replace (1 Viewer)

[ClemsonCruiser]

Interesting and more interesting I wonder if someone changed out the clutch MC at one time with a Brake MC because they couldn't get the correct one? I suppose it would work in a pinch. Did you look at the Brake MC and see if it has the same numbers. There are a lot of clutch and brake MC's available. You can get a new one for about the same $ as a kit - if you can even get a kit for one that old. Try Specter Off Road. "Factory Toyota MC's are not cheap. Good luck.

Sorry a little late to the party here, but that is the correct clutch master for a 1967 FJ40. It is not a brake master someone switched over. The 40 series 1961-67 came with " tin cup reservoirs" for both the brake and clutch masters. They are identical except for the internals are slightly different but they have the same bore and use the same rebuild kit. You can still get aftermarket rebuild kits for them part # (BECK/ARNLEY 071-1903) and (DORMAN TM351747) cost is about $15. I realize this a little to late for the OP but hopefully it will save someone in the future from having to buy a whole new brake or clutch master.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

it is standard thread so righty tighty and lefty loosey

i removed my fluid cup and torqued the body of the cylinder in the vice with the nut hanging out where i could get to it with the socket on the impact.

It's also a good idea to hone the inside of the master while it's apart. any rust that may have formed tiny imperfections will allow fluid to seep by...the bigger the imperfection on the wall the quicker the seepage.

I could not get mine to turn with a 1/2 drive ratchet. The impact was the only way i could get it to budge and i wasn't about to put a breaker bar on it.

They make tiny cylinder hones. If i don't have a hone available I've used a piece of 400 gritt sand paper and some tape to hold it to a drill bit to hone. First wash the cylinder in warm soapy water, dry out. Then work the contraption in and out. Then i wet it down and wet sand it for the final hone.

Wash back out with warm soapy water, blow it out to dry, lube everything with brake fluid and re assemble

 

[sanantonio67fj40]

Dohcdelsol93: I removed the Clutch Master Cylinder easily, but it is the Clutch Slave Cylinder that I am referring to now.

I bought replacement part from JTOutfitters ($139.95). I know it was not the least expensive route to take but I thought it would make the repair easier. Sadly, it has not...but it is not a fault of the part. I LOVE to work on my FJ's, but I everything takes me 10 times as long as it should. Regardless, I will figure this out and get it back on the road. Any other help you guys can give is greatly appreciated. I have great, but basic tools. So, I do not have a vice or an impact wrench. When I turn the front, outer nut on the slave, the whole bolt and nut on the other side of the shifter linkage bracket turns. So, I am not quite sure what to be holding onto as I turn the nut on the outside. Any advice?

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/clutch-...p-2219.html?osCsid=mf6oamv6nq0tj4gc2hmjbts3h4

 

[dohcdelsol93]

reading ownz me....IIRC it's two bolts with 12mm heads that hold on the slave, my fj40 only had a stock F in it for 24hours after getting her and my memory isn't the best. Thats been some 4 years ago.

So long as the bolt is't rounded off heating helps. Since you say you have minimal tools i'm betting a torch set isn't in your shed.

Do you have a breaker bar? If not you need one. Should pop it loose.

a 3/8 ratchet with a jack handle slid over the handle will work in a pinch...i've exceeded my craftsman life time warranty replacements for this.

Make sure you are using 6 point sockets.

a closed in wrench on the back will hold the nut on the opposite side of the slave still.

 

[sanantonio67fj40]

I do have a torch and a breaker bar...so I will give these things a try shortly. Thank you so much!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

no problem. Good luck.

I'm assuming the bolt you are talking about has a nut on the opposite side. If this is the case and it won't come out cutting it off with a air chisel or grinder is always an option.

 

[sanantonio67fj40]

So here's what I have from the front and the back. I can loosen and remove the bolt on the right with no problem. The bolt, or nut on the left, won't budge. The bolt on the left goes through the triangular bracket, then the slave, another mounting bracket on the other side of the slave, and then through the shifter linkage. A washer and nut hold the shifter linkage on. When I hold the nut on the shifter linkage side of the slave and loosen the left nut on the front of the slave, the nut on the linkage side loosens and comes off but the bolt will not come out through the front and I can't get the nut on the front to loosen. Is it reverse thread maybe?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I dont recall anything on a 40 being left hand thread. Id say rust is holding the bolt in. it needs heat or a bigger longer
wrench.

 

[sometlc]

Longer wrench and as close to or at the nut will give you the most torque. May have to hold your tounge the right way!

 

[sanantonio67fj40]

I'll give that a shot. Thank you!

 

[sanantonio67fj40]

Success! Thanks for your help! I just needed to slide the linkage off the back of the long bolt, and get a good grip on the nut on the front and the back with more leverage. Appreciate all the advice!

 

[KY Longhunter]

You can still get aftermarket rebuild kits for them part # (BECK/ARNLEY 071-1903) and (DORMAN TM351747) cost is about $15.00
View attachment 910990
View attachment 910991

JP ... Where can I buy this rebuild kit? Got any idea.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Napa sells beck/arnley, so if it's still being made they can get it.