Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

[Hiccup]

Looks good to me. The center arm must be in the left position.
Have a look at my thread: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/
All 3 positions are explained. There is also video that shows the Full charge, Trickle charge and NO charge position.

Good ground is important for functioning in the Trickle and No charge position.
For now the VR is just a station that passes the voltage from one terminal to another terminal.
Check the VR for continuity with your DMM in the OHM position. Check from left vertical terminal (F) to right vertical terminal (IG or IGN). The horizontal terminal is Ground (E=Earth).
F to IGN should be 0.00 Ω
View attachment 927711

Rudi

Thanks Rudi. I looked at that link today and feel that it gave me a much better understanding as to how things are supposed to work. I measure 9.3 OHM

 

[bj40green]

Thanks Rudi. I looked at that link today and feel that it gave me a much better understanding as to how things are supposed to work. I measure 9.3 OHM

That's 9.3 ohm too much. Should be 0.00 ohm. look at the second picture in my other thread.
You'll see a 10 ohm resistor and that is what you measure. In other words; The contacts don't close, the VR is in the "half charge" position.

Do you have the VR out of the car?
Is it a 100% replacement or a model that you have to modify the wiring or connector?
What brand and model number?

Rudi

 

[Hiccup]

Rudi it's out of the truck. Bought it from cruiser corps 100% direct replacement. Part number 27700-60100 made in Taiwan.

 

[Hiccup]

That's 9.3 ohm too much. Should be 0.00 ohm. look at the second picture in my other thread.
You'll see a 10 ohm resistor and that is what you measure. In other words; The contacts don't close, the VR is in the "half charge" position.

Do you have the VR out of the car?
Is it a 100% replacement or a model that you have to modify the wiring or connector?
What brand and model number?

Rudi

Rudi, attached is a close up of the VR I sent earlier. It looks to me more like its in the closed position like in your photo from your link.

 

[bj40green]

Send it back. Ask for a replacement. This VR will NEVER work.

Rudi

 

[Hiccup]

Send it back. Ask for a replacement. This VR will NEVER work.
View attachment 927798

Rudi

Rudi just wanted to say thanks. The new voltage regulator came yesterday and seems to be working nicely! 13.84 volts on the battery at idle. I did measure the OHMs across the F and IG terminals before I installed it. I got 3.9 but decided to install it any way. Really appreciate the patience and wisdom that you so freely share here on Mud!

 

[bj40green]

I'm happy that you're happy
Just a question... what does your ohm meter read when you hold the tips of the test leads together?

Rudi

 

[hotpoker01]

Good stuff Rudi! Interesting read!


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Hiccup]

I'm happy that you're happy
Just a question... what does your ohm meter read when you hold the tips of the test leads together?

Rudi

Rudi, I get 0.1 when I hold the tips of the leads together. What are you thinking if you don't mind me asking? I know I was supposed to get 0.0 on the F and IG terminals but it seems to be working.

 

[bj40green]

Rudi, I get 0.1 when I hold the tips of the leads together. What are you thinking if you don't mind me asking? I know I was supposed to get 0.0 on the F and IG terminals but it seems to be working.

Well, the value should be 0 ohm when the VR is in Full Charge position and 10 Ohm when in Half Charge position so 3.9 ohm is a bit strange but sometimes the test leads of a DMM does tricky things especially when the battery is almost empty. No worries.... it works.

Rudi

 

[jgeoffr]

Rudi,
I read through all twenty pages and did search but I cannot fully understand what these prongs are for and the purpose of the wiring and I was hoping you or someone else could help me.

I have a 4th generation gauge cluster from a 1984 Saudi Spec truck that has the two prongs coming out above the speedo. I believe it would look like the picture below but mine was not wired up. (I know this one is a 3rd generation cluster but it's the only pic I could find with the wires)

Here is the back of my cluster and the speedo with the prongs.

I believe the green wire is soldered on after the fact for some reason - perhaps to ground it.

My question is what does this do? I looked and it appears that they are perhaps related to some overspeed sensor because there is a wheel that makes contact with the prongs at 120KPH, which is the same speed that my LC100 starts beeping at.

First pic below shows the notch prior to making contact with the electrical prongs - speed reads about 110.

Second pic attempts to show the notch touching the prongs at 120kph. The needle stops there and will not move past even though the gauge is mared to 160kph.

Any idea if this is all it is and if so how important it is / what does it do?

Thanks!

-Geoff

 

[bj40green]

Hi Geaff,
That's the Speed Sensor. Full name VSV or Vehicle Speed Sensor.
It was used in some markets (not all markets) and was part of the ECE (Emission Control Equipment) or ECC (Emission Control Computer) system. It was for gasoline trucks only.

In some other markets it was used to sound an alarm with a buzzer at a certain speed.

Rudi

 

[jgeoffr]

Thanks Rudi! I will keep working through this and get back to you if I have more questions.

-Geoff

 

[Patrick in Oz]

Hi,
I have a 1977 HJ45 Utility and a 1984 HJ47 Troop Carrier.
The HJ47 has a J07 50 amp instrument cluster. Some of the indications have been dodgy for a while.
I purchased a J01 50 amp cluster in perfect condition, with the intent of putting it in the HJ47. (I had the new cluster tested by an instrument shop in Australia, and they said it was all good)
When I plug in the new cluster, the temperature looks as if it over reads by double and the fuel gauge does not seem accurate.
Are the J07 and J01 clusters interchangeable on my 1984 truck?
Thank you for any help.
Regards,
Patrick.

 

[bj40green]

Hi Patrick,

Yes, the clusters you have there are interchangeable. Differences are mainly in the print on the speedo front plate and the text below the gauges.
The only other difference is 12V or 24V. This easy recognizable, you'll see a big resistor on the back of a 24V cluster.
As you have read (or not) in this lengthy thread, the FUEL gauge and the TEMP gauge are a "nest" where the FUEL gauge provides a wobbly 7V working voltage for both gauges. If something is wrong with this internal Voltage Regulator than both gauges are off mark.

Rudi

 

[Patrick in Oz]

Hi Rudi,

Thank you for your reply.

I have read the entire post multiple times, but most of this seems like "magic" to me!

The wobbly 7 volts was the term I was looking for to describe it to the instrument guy.

It is a shame to lose the extra digit from the original J07 odometer, but the other cluster is too perfect not to put in the troopy. (Once it is reading correctly!)

I really appreciate your help and look forward to speaking with you again.

Regards,

Patrick.

 

[bj40green]

Hi Patrick,

You can look at it in two ways. The J07 reads low or the J01 reads high. Which one is correct?
My FUEL gauge was always indicating a 1/4 tank too low. When the gauge reads 1/4 the tank was 1/2 full.
When the gauge was on the E mark I still had 1/4 tank. I could live with it once I knew the deviation.
I see those gauges more as indicators as in High/Low, Hot/Cold and Empty/Full.

I don't know about your electrical skills but if you want I can guide you through an attempt to figure out what is wrong with the J01.

Or...... you can swap out the face plates. You'll have to make the opening for the counter a little bit wider.

Can you post some good pictures?

Rudi

 

[Patrick in Oz]

Hi Rudi,
I am away overseas right now.
When I get a chance, I will message you, and would be appreciative of some guidance.
Thanks again,
Patrick.

 

[Wasim Mehdi]

Hi Rudi,
Following your thread for long time, now got courage to correct my malfunctioning Gage's of 83 model with 4th Gen cluster. I checked as per your post got two problems.
1- P2 gives 11volts instead of 5, the light test and wire test is ok, so is it my sender bad? Any other thing you want me to do before replacement.
2- Temp gage is a bit lazy voltage and light test ok, if grounded moves with jerks, any advise?
3- The famous ammeter will be last to fix wait for that a bit.
4- You mentioned Lm7807VR any circuit for that will be much appreciated.
5- Not belong here but you are only one know the wattage & resistance valve of IGN coil.

 

[bj40green]

Hi Wasim,

You know what your problem is but I (we) don't know, so tell us about it.

1- P2 gives 11volts instead of 5, the light test and wire test is ok, so is it my sender bad? Any other thing you want me to do before replacement.

I assume that with P2 you mean the output from the FUEL gauge VR? That should be a "wobbly" 6 -7Volts. If it's 11V it means that that VR has no ground inside the cluster or the gauge is defective. Check the lip on the bottom on the back of the gauge for pressure and good clean contact to the cluster housing.
But.... that doesn't fit with your statement that the light test is OK. If the light test is OK you should see the test light flashing.

2- Temp gage is a bit lazy voltage and light test ok, if grounded moves with jerks, any advise?

When you have the cluster open, check if the needle moves smoothly.

3- The famous ammeter will be last to fix wait for that a bit.

OK.

4- You mentioned Lm7807VR any circuit for that will be much appreciated.

What is exactly the question?

5- Not belong here but you are only one know the wattage & resistance valve of IGN coil.

Nope, I have no idea but it should be very low ohms. Post this as a separate question or contact @Coolerman on this forum.

Rudi