Sorry Rudi, GY was 12V.
Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bj40green
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Sorry for my ignorance Rudi. When I didn't see anything that resembled the pictures of VR I'd seen the horn relay looked like the closest animal. I get 12V out of the BY and nothing out of the green or white black wires from the connector going to the VR. These wire colors change going into the VR. BY connects to red, WG connects to green,and WB connects to Black.. Sorry again.
Thanks Rudi! I'll let you know how that works out!
Hi Rudy,
Well my voltage regulator finially arrived and much to my dismay I am still having issues charging the battery. This is a new battery. With the ignition in the on position the battery reads 12.2. I'm getting 11 at the regulator. I was expecting the same as at the battery so I've removed and cleaned/replaced all connections including pulling the cluster again. I was rewarded with my amp meter pegging to the right and my battery voltage went up to 13 V. I was hoping something around 14. When I measure voltage at the field connection on the alternator I get 5 volts sometimes and then nothing??? What type of voltage should I expect there? Could I have a loose connection or is this an indication that my alternator is shot? As always I appreciate your help.
Steve
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #367
Hi Steve, you're making progress. At least you now have voltage on the F terminal and your alternator is working but not good (yet).
For the full explanation how it works go here: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/
A quick explanation is: Voltage on F is 12V when charging the battery. This voltage will drop to about 6V when the battery is 13.6V and will drop to zero (0V) when the battery is full at 14.4 or 14.8V depending on the set point of the VR.
When you say "...my amp meter pegging to the right..." can you explain that to me?
When the engine is at idle, what's the reading?
Does the Ammeter goes up when you rev up the engine?
Does it slowly go into the right corner or does it go fast and hit the corner?
When you turn the key to the "on" position you draw current from the battery (ignition, cluster gauges, parking brake light, to name a few) so the battery voltage will always drop when you turn the key from "off" to "on".
You're loosing a bit to much voltage (12.2 at the battery and 11 at the VR) a little loss is normal but this is a bit too high. Maybe a bad connector. I'll come back to that later.
Do a little test for me please.
* Disconnect the +B wire from the alternator (the fat one) Insulate it temporarily with tape to make sure it doesn't touch metal parts.
* Start engine (let idle) and check the voltage on the Battery terminal and F terminal on the Alternator.
* What are the readings?
* Check voltage on the +B terminal on the Alternator.
* What's the reading?
* Rev up the rpm's a little bit with the voltmeter still attached to the +B terminal on the Alternator.
* What's the reading? Same or goes up? How high?
We're getting there,
Rudi
PS: The Ammeter should only show a little negative.
PPS. Leave the cluster alone. It's not in the Ammeter wiring.
For the full explanation how it works go here: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/
A quick explanation is: Voltage on F is 12V when charging the battery. This voltage will drop to about 6V when the battery is 13.6V and will drop to zero (0V) when the battery is full at 14.4 or 14.8V depending on the set point of the VR.
When you say "...my amp meter pegging to the right..." can you explain that to me?
When the engine is at idle, what's the reading?
Does the Ammeter goes up when you rev up the engine?
Does it slowly go into the right corner or does it go fast and hit the corner?
When you turn the key to the "on" position you draw current from the battery (ignition, cluster gauges, parking brake light, to name a few) so the battery voltage will always drop when you turn the key from "off" to "on".
You're loosing a bit to much voltage (12.2 at the battery and 11 at the VR) a little loss is normal but this is a bit too high. Maybe a bad connector. I'll come back to that later.
Do a little test for me please.
* Disconnect the +B wire from the alternator (the fat one) Insulate it temporarily with tape to make sure it doesn't touch metal parts.
* Start engine (let idle) and check the voltage on the Battery terminal and F terminal on the Alternator.
* What are the readings?
* Check voltage on the +B terminal on the Alternator.
* What's the reading?
* Rev up the rpm's a little bit with the voltmeter still attached to the +B terminal on the Alternator.
* What's the reading? Same or goes up? How high?
We're getting there,
Rudi
PS: The Ammeter should only show a little negative.
PPS. Leave the cluster alone. It's not in the Ammeter wiring.
Last edited:
Rudi thanks again!
When I cleaned all the contacts and started the truck the ammeter jumped (pegged) to the positive side. Not all the way to the plus but like 3/4. I was assuming that it meant the battery was charging and it was then that I had 13 V on the battery.
When I got your post I went outside and first measured the battery with nothing on. It was 12.42. With the ignition on it went to 12.25. I shut off the truck and disconnected the +B terminal and taped it. I started the truck and measured 12.25 at the battery, 0.066 v at the field on the alternator and 1.08 V at the +B. I revved the engine and got 28-29 V on the +B. I tried to measure the field on the alternator at this time and got a spark. Now when I rev the engine I can not duplicate the 28v I was getting at the +B.
The ammeter does not move when the engine is revved. I can also no longer get a 5 or 6 V reading on the field as before.
When I cleaned all the contacts and started the truck the ammeter jumped (pegged) to the positive side. Not all the way to the plus but like 3/4. I was assuming that it meant the battery was charging and it was then that I had 13 V on the battery.
When I got your post I went outside and first measured the battery with nothing on. It was 12.42. With the ignition on it went to 12.25. I shut off the truck and disconnected the +B terminal and taped it. I started the truck and measured 12.25 at the battery, 0.066 v at the field on the alternator and 1.08 V at the +B. I revved the engine and got 28-29 V on the +B. I tried to measure the field on the alternator at this time and got a spark. Now when I rev the engine I can not duplicate the 28v I was getting at the +B.
The ammeter does not move when the engine is revved. I can also no longer get a 5 or 6 V reading on the field as before.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #369
We're getting somewhere. Open the post above to see my comments in Green and Red.
It appears to me that the voltage on the F terminal on the alternator comes and goes, so we have to go one step back. All the attention is now on the VR.
On the IGN terminal should be the same voltage as on the battery. Maybe a 0.3V less but not 1.2V less.
I'll come back on that later. As long as the battery voltage is below 13.6V the voltage on the F terminal should be the same as on the IGN terminal.
So 12.2 on the battery = 12.2 on the IGN terminal = 12.2 on the F terminal VR = 12.2 on the F terminal on the Alternator. You may loose some 0.something Volt but this is how it should be.
If you have a good steady output on the F terminal VR than that same voltage should appear on the F Alternator.
If not..... then we have to check the Battery -► IGN key switch -► Fuse Block -► Fuse -► wiring for not functioning properly.
It can be as simple as a fuse or the IGN key switch that makes bad contact.
Rudi
Thanks Rudi. I went out to measure the voltage out of the regulator and got nothing. Checked the engine fuse and it was blown. Plenty of fuses but out of 15A, I'll pick up some in the morning and start again. It does appear to me too that the voltage on the F terminal on the alternator comes and goes. This was the reason i put new connectors on the leads as the old ones looked really worn and I thought might be the source of the poor connection. I have never gotten anything over 5-6 volts.
Rudi,
Bought some fuses today. Put in the new engine fuse and I only have power the the left side of the fuse block. Feeling pretty stupid right about now! Lights still work, signals still work and the truck turns over. I shut it off immediately. What the heck!?!
Bought some fuses today. Put in the new engine fuse and I only have power the the left side of the fuse block. Feeling pretty stupid right about now! Lights still work, signals still work and the truck turns over. I shut it off immediately. What the heck!?!
I've tried several fuses and checked the continuity , they are good. I took two pics showing that the voltage only measures on the left side when connected to the ground and the right side when connected to the ground but not across the fuse. I use to be able the touch the fuses with my probes and get a voltage. Really apologize for my lack of electrical know how but I am learning.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #375
So what you're saying is:
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the left side of the fuse = Voltage 11.52
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the right side of the fuse = No Voltage. Right?
With the DMM (Digital Multi Meter) in the OHM position; Red lead to the left and Black lead to the right = 0.001 ohm. Right?
You're not allowed to check a fuse for continuity in a circuit. You have to take the fuse out.
When you do the test as you did, you're measuring through the circuits because they are parallel to the fuse.
Take the fuse out and check the fuse(s) again.
Rudi
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the left side of the fuse = Voltage 11.52
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the right side of the fuse = No Voltage. Right?
With the DMM (Digital Multi Meter) in the OHM position; Red lead to the left and Black lead to the right = 0.001 ohm. Right?
You're not allowed to check a fuse for continuity in a circuit. You have to take the fuse out.
When you do the test as you did, you're measuring through the circuits because they are parallel to the fuse.
Take the fuse out and check the fuse(s) again.
Rudi
So what you're saying is:
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the left side of the fuse = Voltage 11.52
Yes
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the right side of the fuse = No Voltage. Right?
No I get the same voltage 11.52
The 0.001 in the second picture is in Volts when I measure red lead to left side of fuse and black lead to right side of fuse.
To check the continuity I set my multimeter like in the pic attached.
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the left side of the fuse = Voltage 11.52
Yes
Black lead to ground, Red lead to the right side of the fuse = No Voltage. Right?
No I get the same voltage 11.52
The 0.001 in the second picture is in Volts when I measure red lead to left side of fuse and black lead to right side of fuse.
To check the continuity I set my multimeter like in the pic attached.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #377
The position you've selected is the continuity with beeper test. When the resistance is less then 25 ohm a beep will sound. Good for other tests but not for what we're doing.
You've to select the Ω symbol. This is the Greek sign for OHM.
OK so now you have voltage on both sides of the fuse. Disconnect the VR.
If you turn the key in the on position you should have voltage on the IGN terminal of the VR connector.
Re-connect the VR. There should be now voltage on the F terminal of the VR connector.
If so, there should also be voltage on the F terminal on the Alternator.
Back in a few hours or so, I've to do some shopping.
Rudi
If you turn the key in the on position you should have voltage on the IGN terminal of the VR connector.
Yes, 12V out of the Black yellow wire.
Re-connect the VR. There should be now voltage on the F terminal of the VR connector.
No workie! I've got nothing again on the F terminal. Could this regulator be bad as well? I've read somewhere that it was essential for the regulator to have a good ground with the firewall. Mine had paint and no bare metal so I took the grinder to where it bolts up and tried again. Still nothing. The new regulator is a manual, could there be something I can adjust?
If so, there should also be voltage on the F terminal on the Alternator.
Back in a few hours or so, I've to do some shopping.
Yes, 12V out of the Black yellow wire.
Re-connect the VR. There should be now voltage on the F terminal of the VR connector.
No workie! I've got nothing again on the F terminal. Could this regulator be bad as well? I've read somewhere that it was essential for the regulator to have a good ground with the firewall. Mine had paint and no bare metal so I took the grinder to where it bolts up and tried again. Still nothing. The new regulator is a manual, could there be something I can adjust?
If so, there should also be voltage on the F terminal on the Alternator.
Back in a few hours or so, I've to do some shopping.
So I pulled the regulator to see if there was anything obviously wrong with it. The only thing I notice is that the contact spring is in the closed position. Is this the normal position when off the truck? Could this be why I'm not getting voltage to my field?
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #380
Looks good to me. The center arm must be in the left position.
Have a look at my thread: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/
All 3 positions are explained. There is also video that shows the Full charge, Trickle charge and NO charge position.
Good ground is important for functioning in the Trickle and No charge position.
For now the VR is just a station that passes the voltage from one terminal to another terminal.
Check the VR for continuity with your DMM in the OHM position. Check from left vertical terminal (F) to right vertical terminal (IG or IGN). The horizontal terminal is Ground (E=Earth).
F to IGN should be 0.00 Ω
Rudi
Have a look at my thread: -► https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/voltage-regulator-ext-how-it-works.747718/
All 3 positions are explained. There is also video that shows the Full charge, Trickle charge and NO charge position.
Good ground is important for functioning in the Trickle and No charge position.
For now the VR is just a station that passes the voltage from one terminal to another terminal.
Check the VR for continuity with your DMM in the OHM position. Check from left vertical terminal (F) to right vertical terminal (IG or IGN). The horizontal terminal is Ground (E=Earth).
F to IGN should be 0.00 Ω
Rudi
