Thanks bj40green I followed the your post 156 diagram,
1- P2 in fact is Pin2 which is oil sender. It gives 11volts reading.
1- P2 in fact is Pin2 which is oil sender. It gives 11volts reading.
Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bj40green
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2- I will check the free movement of needle.
3- Ok
4- I assume you mentioned that VR can be replaced with LM 7807, hence looking for standby circuit if any available.
5- Pinhead answered 1.2 to 1.6 ohms with wattage 50.
3- Ok
4- I assume you mentioned that VR can be replaced with LM 7807, hence looking for standby circuit if any available.
5- Pinhead answered 1.2 to 1.6 ohms with wattage 50.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #403
Aha, yeah those two pics are a bit confusing. I have to rewrite that posting some day.
If the OIL sender is not hooked up the voltage should be equal to the battery voltage so in your case 11V is OK.
If you use a test light the tester will lit up bright.
If you hook up the OIL sender the voltage will be +/- 5V because the OIL sender has a VR build in.
All good and well,,,,, you still didn't tell us what the problem is.
Rudi
bj40green thanks, my understanding is if Pin 2 remain at battery voltage in my case 11 volts after hooking oil sender than sender is bad right?
As for problems there were multiple problems I fixed fuel gauge VR and Temp gauges after reading your posts ( Blessing).
Now only oil gauge is left unserviceable and 50-0-50 ammeter last to go.
But a new problem surfaced to day my speedometer needle works ok but ODO meter stopped
I serviced it not long ago, so visual check points to
But I am not sure it looks loose and don't have any pointed thing on right side or any hole in housing to keep it engaged with worm gear. Any insight Welcome?
As for problems there were multiple problems I fixed fuel gauge VR and Temp gauges after reading your posts ( Blessing).
Now only oil gauge is left unserviceable and 50-0-50 ammeter last to go.
But a new problem surfaced to day my speedometer needle works ok but ODO meter stopped
I serviced it not long ago, so visual check points to
But I am not sure it looks loose and don't have any pointed thing on right side or any hole in housing to keep it engaged with worm gear. Any insight Welcome?
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #405
Check for voltage on the top of the OIL sender. If 11V... sender is defective. If 0V, you have a wiring problem. If 5V but no reading on the gauge (after starting the engine) sender is defective.
That worm looks good to me. Maybe the counter runs "too heavy"' and needs a "taking apart & lubrication".
Rudi
That worm looks good to me. Maybe the counter runs "too heavy"' and needs a "taking apart & lubrication".
Rudi
Apologies if this is posted, but i could not find it my search. I am trying to couple the temperature sensor from an LT1 GM 5.7 liter to the stock set of gauges [stock for now] in a March 1979 land cruiser...looks like gene gauge cluster.
I think the resistance is out of range for the gauge. if I ground the temp gauge down....it reads and moves the dial, but when i hook it to the sensor out of the engine, it reads nothing.
I am suspecting the abc sensor is out of range for the gauge. see 188 ohms at operating temp, and much higher at cold.
best i can tell it takes about 30ohms to have the gauge at operating temp.
Could you please confirm the resistance range of the temp gauge?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
I think the resistance is out of range for the gauge. if I ground the temp gauge down....it reads and moves the dial, but when i hook it to the sensor out of the engine, it reads nothing.
I am suspecting the abc sensor is out of range for the gauge. see 188 ohms at operating temp, and much higher at cold.
best i can tell it takes about 30ohms to have the gauge at operating temp.
Could you please confirm the resistance range of the temp gauge?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
Further investigation reveals the fixed lug on right side is broken, which makes the worm gear a loose fit.
My fix is I inserted a support pin from the back of gauge housing (blue point), which serves as support and then covered it plastic covering.
The picture from back is
Now ODO meter works fine.
Now ODO meter works fine.
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Great thread!
I put a 2F in my 1970 40, and with stock cluster the temp gauge wont work. I have a sensor for the F motor but it seems too long to fit in the 2F. Anybody know if I can get adapter for the sensor, or I have to change the gauge to a later unit matching the 1978 2F sensor?
I put a 2F in my 1970 40, and with stock cluster the temp gauge wont work. I have a sensor for the F motor but it seems too long to fit in the 2F. Anybody know if I can get adapter for the sensor, or I have to change the gauge to a later unit matching the 1978 2F sensor?
You should be able to get an adapter that extends it out. They're just pipe fittings. A brass fitting maybe from the hardware store will work.
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #412
You have a 1970 Cruiser (F engine) with a 2nd generation cluster so you have to use the 2nd generation temp sender.
So take out the sender from the (old F) and use that one. Part# 83420-20010
If it's too long, use an adapter.
Oops, thetoyotaman beat me.
Rudi
Last edited:
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Thanks Rudi and thetoyotamam...I have the part (the F sender) will hunt for a brass adapter.
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Hi,
please advise regarding 12V to 24V dash upgrade. I would like to upgrade 12V dash to 24V WITHOUT replacing oil pressure gauge.
Currently a 12V dash is available new from Toyota, I want to upgrade it for my BJ43 (24V). It was mentioned that one of the options is to replace oil pressure gauge (12V to 24V), cut direct connection OIL to FUEL (as in original 24V dash), add resistor and 24V bulbs. But 24V oil pressure gauge (83510-60050) is a very rare NOS. I try to find a way to keep an original 12V oil pressure gauge from new dash (83510-60013).
I think to upgrade a back pannel - cut direct contact 24V to oil gauge, connect 24V contact to spare connection (closeby), add additional connection bolt and put resistor between new 24V bolt and oil gauge. Keep original 12V dash direct connection OIL to FUEL. And add bulbs 24V.
Does it fly?
Thanks
please advise regarding 12V to 24V dash upgrade. I would like to upgrade 12V dash to 24V WITHOUT replacing oil pressure gauge.
Currently a 12V dash is available new from Toyota, I want to upgrade it for my BJ43 (24V). It was mentioned that one of the options is to replace oil pressure gauge (12V to 24V), cut direct connection OIL to FUEL (as in original 24V dash), add resistor and 24V bulbs. But 24V oil pressure gauge (83510-60050) is a very rare NOS. I try to find a way to keep an original 12V oil pressure gauge from new dash (83510-60013).
I think to upgrade a back pannel - cut direct contact 24V to oil gauge, connect 24V contact to spare connection (closeby), add additional connection bolt and put resistor between new 24V bolt and oil gauge. Keep original 12V dash direct connection OIL to FUEL. And add bulbs 24V.
Does it fly?
Thanks
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #416
Here is a little story. A friend of mine owns a BJ40 (12V). His cluster was a disaster. Got himself a 24V cluster and did the following:
- Replaced all bulbs for 12V
- Removed the (dropper) resistor and put a jumper in (for the FUEL and TEMP circuits).
- Kept the 24V OIL gauge and hooked it up to his 12V OIL sender.
The result: His OIL pressure reading was a bit lower than my 12V BJ40.
The point is that the OIL pressure circuit is a standalone circuit. In both versions 12 and 24V the OIL pressure sender has a built in Voltage Regulator to make the working voltage for the OIL pressure gauge.
So if a 24V gauge with a 12V sender in a 12V circuit gives a lower reading, the reverse, a 12V gauge with a 24V sender in a 24V circuit should give you a higher reading.
Just try it before you start cutting in the PCB. Those circuits are slow because they work on the principle of a bi-metal strip heating up.
Start engine, watch the gauge, rev up a bit and the gauge should follow with a 1 to 2 seconds delay.
If it goes wrong (needle into the right corner) you simply turn off the engine and go for plan B.
HTH,
Rudi
- Replaced all bulbs for 12V
- Removed the (dropper) resistor and put a jumper in (for the FUEL and TEMP circuits).
- Kept the 24V OIL gauge and hooked it up to his 12V OIL sender.
The result: His OIL pressure reading was a bit lower than my 12V BJ40.
The point is that the OIL pressure circuit is a standalone circuit. In both versions 12 and 24V the OIL pressure sender has a built in Voltage Regulator to make the working voltage for the OIL pressure gauge.
So if a 24V gauge with a 12V sender in a 12V circuit gives a lower reading, the reverse, a 12V gauge with a 24V sender in a 24V circuit should give you a higher reading.
Just try it before you start cutting in the PCB. Those circuits are slow because they work on the principle of a bi-metal strip heating up.
Start engine, watch the gauge, rev up a bit and the gauge should follow with a 1 to 2 seconds delay.
If it goes wrong (needle into the right corner) you simply turn off the engine and go for plan B.
HTH,
Rudi
Last edited:
many thanks! Will do so.
But if oil gauge will go too right, does it make to use another resistor (empirical way)? Than one resistor between power and oil gauge and standard between power and fuel? Or it will not help
Thanks
But if oil gauge will go too right, does it make to use another resistor (empirical way)? Than one resistor between power and oil gauge and standard between power and fuel? Or it will not help
Thanks
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #418
Yep, that will work, but you have to figure out the ohm value.
The gauge draw is 300 mA or 0.3 Amp. You need a voltage drop of 12V (24V-12V) but the gauge is 12V so the voltage is 50% of 12V is 6V.
Apply Ohm's law and the result is: My guess is something around 18 ohm / 5 Watt. This all theory. The best way is to buy a 100 ohm / 5 Watt wire wound potentio meter aka rheostat. Adjust for a correct reading, use an ohm meter to read the value of the rheostat and buy a resistor of that value. The resistor must be in the E12 range which means a value from this range: 10 12 15 18 22 27 33 39 47 56 68 82 100 ohm.
Rudi
The gauge draw is 300 mA or 0.3 Amp. You need a voltage drop of 12V (24V-12V) but the gauge is 12V so the voltage is 50% of 12V is 6V.
Apply Ohm's law and the result is: My guess is something around 18 ohm / 5 Watt. This all theory. The best way is to buy a 100 ohm / 5 Watt wire wound potentio meter aka rheostat. Adjust for a correct reading, use an ohm meter to read the value of the rheostat and buy a resistor of that value. The resistor must be in the E12 range which means a value from this range: 10 12 15 18 22 27 33 39 47 56 68 82 100 ohm.
Rudi
I haven't seen this style of ODO on this thread. Any ideas how to get this worm gear out? Any tips, so I don't screw up the speedo spring? I'm pretty sure my odo isn't spinning because it was gummed up, I cleaned it all up, but I think the speedo kept the metal gear spinning, and the polyurethane gear was stopped (because the odo was gummed up), and it stripped the odo. Now the odo won't it won't work.
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks,
Eric
I've taken the "goldish" looking cover off with the two screws on each side (circled in red), but it only takes the top plate off, and the other half under the plate with the spring attached to it, stays down. The top plate is what spins with the speedo. The bottom plate I could not budge. I'm at a loss and I don't want to brake it. I've searched all over this site and others, and cannot find a way to take the whole thing apart.
