Club Work Day Saturday 12/08/07

[LDowney]

Clutchee,
Here is the info on the hub socket that I use for my trucks. It is a Craftsman 2 1/8" -12 point- 3/4" drive socket (Sears P/N G-47789). The adapter is also a Craftsman 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter (Sears P/N 4271).

When running the numbers: 54 mm = 2.12598 in. So clearly the socket is toleranced slightly larger than 2 1/8 inches or the hub nut is actually slightly less than 54 mm. Either way it works. This socket fits in the hub of without any fit issues (I have used it on 40, 60, 70 and 80 series trucks without issue). Finally, the reason I bought it was the rounding over of the stamped steel hub socket I had originally when trying to loosen a very tight hub nut and of course this socket has never had a problem with this (or anything except the purchase price as I recall).

Below are a some pictures that I took for your reference if you ever have a chance to pick one up.

 

[Clutchee]

Thanks Larry!

Did they have this in the store or did you order it from Sears?

 

[LDowney]

Thanks Larry!

Did they have this in the store or did you order it from Sears?

Clutchee,
They had it on the shelf, which was lucky for me because I was in the middle of a project with my 54 mm socket (from Specter) rounded over so waiting a week for a replacement would have been a pain. The Sears store at the mall (Town Center) is the closest one to me and has a nice sized tool & home department. One of the "mini" Sears stores may not stock these so you may want to select your Sears store accordingly. One option that may be cheaper than Sears might be Northern Tool. When I was in the store near me the other day, I noticed that they now stocked/sold what looked like a significant number of individual sockets and accessories.

Good luck. By the way, this socket is always packed in my tool bag for trail rides so it could still be near by for field repairs.

 

[72cruiser]

Thanks Larry!

Did they have this in the store or did you order it from Sears?

yeah, i got my 2 1/8" right off the shelf at sears.

by the way, the standard one costs about 1/4 what the 54mm costs...

craftsman makes a stamped one like everybody else sells, and it's only 11 bucks i think, but they don't stock them in stores and they are either discontinued or backordered online.


malphrus

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Just this minute got a 3/4 drive 54mm at Northern for $11. Not a stamped one - cast like the Craftsman. They had a few. Got the adapter to 1/2 to 3/4 for $6

 

[chattfj40]

Well, I had a case cancel Monday afternoon, so I called Roger and lucky for me he was on the way to the shop. Went home and picked up the Longfield Cro-Moly Axle that was delivered earlier in the day. Drove up to Manchester arriving ~4. Proceeded to pick up where we l left off with everything torn down.

The last thing I had found at the work day was that both of the knuckles had 6mm bolts broken off in them...the pass side I'd already mounted, so I attempted to get that bolt out while Roger worked on the D-side on the bench. We were both successful! I then finished up the seals on the Pass, and proceeded to the D-side. We ran into some difficulty getting this knuckle installed. The High Steer arm just wouldn't seat in the bearing. We messed with it for 10-20mins and it just wasn't lining up. Roger had a great idea to do it bassackwards and install the top first. That solved the problem and it went together fine.

Installed the 3rd Member Roger had rebuilt for me. This was the most painless part of the day. Then proceeded to pack the Longs (by hand, since Roger's grease gun gave up the ghost!). I think Roger just wanted to play with the grease. Installed the inner axles and Birfs, packed the knuckles, and installed the D side spindle etc. Put on the rotor with the new ARP hub studs................Attempted to put the hub on and noticed that the new studs were considerably longer then I remembered......Hey Roger! So we soon realized that my assumption that the hub studs installed just like the ARP knuckle studs...short side in the housing, was wrong. By this time its 8:30 and we changed out one stud to make sure that was the problem and called it a night. Should be able to finish it up in a couple hrs when I get a chance to get back up there.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Attempted to put the hub on and noticed that the new studs were considerably longer then I remembered......Hey Roger! So we soon realized that my assumption that the hub studs installed just like the ARP knuckle studs...short side in the housing, was wrong. By this time its 8:30 and we changed out one stud to make sure that was the problem and called it a night.

So how did you like fighting the locktite? Did't you use red instead of blue?

 

[chattfj40]

The one we swapped came right out...IIRC we used a mix of red and blue...I'll let you know how it goes when we get to the others

 

[HENDOG]

Now why can't my club do DAT???

 

[chattfj40]

So how did you like fighting the locktite? Did't you use red instead of blue?

Didn't have any problem with ANY of the studs. Not sure what this means, but they all came out without issue.

Finished everything up on Sat, and took it for a test drive, and everything worked as designed...except the brakes...wait, what? I didn't have any pedal back pressure, so back into the shop, hmm rear res on the MC has no fluid, so look for leaks, saw one damp area, but wasn't convinced until we filled it with fluid and it came out through the flare fitting where the rear DS transitions to flex line. Roger pulled it apart and noticed that whoever replaced the hard line last didn't actually double flare the line...looked to me like they just tried to flare it with the fitting...so cut it off and flared it (of course Roger had the flare tool!) fit like a charm...no leaks!

The 40 is ready to go! Now gotta run out an get a couple of batteries for the tow rig...seems the FM transmitter for my IPOD will kill two 6 year old factory batteries when left on for several days...who knew