City Racer Carb 84’ FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[carlosfj80]

Starting a new thread, even though are several on this topic. I have an 84’ desmogged by the PO. Was running the stock carb but it was cold blooded and sputterd until warm and was very dirty. For the most part the 60 ran great, some backfire here and there. I went with the city racer carb to fix the issues. I followed the otramm instructions for tuning and it purrs. Once I get it on the road it stumbles and sputters, first test drive I had it floored in 4th and could barely get over 50. I had to feather the clutch to get going in first gear. After hearing from @Racer65. I connected the dizzy advance from the intake to the side of the carb and re-did the Otramm method. The vacuum gauge was showing 20-22. Also found the secondary was not opening well. Made those adjustments and it seemed to run a bit better…I am still able to put the pedal to the floor in 3rd and 4th gear. I have never been able to do that before. The top end speed was way better, I was able to get her to 65mph. I have never had her that fast. But it’s still sputtering/missing especially in lower gears.
After flooring it in the garage, when the RPM’s come down, it sounds like it is sucking air and the comes back to normal idle RPM’s.

Not sure where the red circled hose should go now, it was attached to the OG carb. I don’t think that could be causing the issue but maybe it is.


Thanks in advance!

 

[lcolon]

That goes to the charcoal canister and is used as a part of the emissions system to capture fuel vapor and recycle it back into the engine. See diagram in this post:

FJ60 charcoal canister replacement/plumbing

Tried searching but I'm still a bit stumped here. Trying to replace my charcoal canister with ACDelco 215-153. What's this port on the very back/left of my (pictured) FJ60 canister? I know the front two (still connected) are Purge and Tank, but not sure what the broken one is? My new canister...

forum.ih8mud.com

If you have de-smogged, you probably leave it unplugged. Someone else can chime in on whether it should be fully plugged or some kind of filter on the end of the hose so that the fuel tank can breathe properly.

 

[carlosfj80]

That goes to the charcoal canister and is used as a part of the emissions system to capture fuel vapor and recycle it back into the engine. See diagram in this post:

FJ60 charcoal canister replacement/plumbing

Tried searching but I'm still a bit stumped here. Trying to replace my charcoal canister with ACDelco 215-153. What's this port on the very back/left of my (pictured) FJ60 canister? I know the front two (still connected) are Purge and Tank, but not sure what the broken one is? My new canister...

forum.ih8mud.com

If you have de-smogged, you probably leave it unplugged. Someone else can chime in on whether it should be fully plugged or some kind of filter on the end of the hose so that the fuel tank can breathe properly.

Thank you!

OK, so I’ve been adjusting the carb more and more.
And changed the cap and rotor. The old one looked pretty bad. Also, maybe there’s an issue with the float because the fuel is coming just above the notch on the sight window.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Thank you!

OK, so I’ve been adjusting the carb more and more.
And changed the cap and rotor. The old one looked pretty bad. Also, maybe there’s an issue with the float because the fuel is coming just above the notch on the sight window.

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That fuel level is passable. Adjusting the float isn't for the faint of heart - it's VERY tweaky. 0.1mm adjustment can change the float bowl level significantly.

 

[carlosfj80]

That fuel level is passable. Adjusting the float isn't for the faint of heart - it's VERY tweaky. 0.1mm adjustment can change the float bowl level significantly.

After hours of tuning, I’m stuck. The 60 idles good but is hesitating/missing on the low end. As I said before. She does great on the high end, 65MPH no problem. The fastest I have ever been…and not trying to drive it that fast regularly…hahaha.

When I rev the engine high and then take my foot off the gas, it drops below 650 and wants to die and then goes back up to idle. It’s like it’s missing on the way down, what could that be, I’m wondering if that’s part of the issue? I came to a few stops and it actually died on me. But starts right up, as long as I slowly ease/ride the clutch in first it’s fine when taking off. But still hesitates.

What’s next y’all? I’m not sure if @Racer65 will let me exchange it or return. I understand that carbs are a non-returnable item and that makes sense.

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[CruiserTrash]

Did you plug that hose you circled in red?

Have you checked and verified the desmog work against the documentation floating around on Mud? Most "desmogs" leave some of the vacuum-operated widgets, have you done the test procedures in the Emissions manual for those? Could be a widget-related vac leak that's only open on decel. How about the fuel cut solenoid? The Emissions manual has a test for that. After a decel, does the exhaust smell super rich?

 

[Pighead]

What’s next y’all?

What distributor are you running? What is your timing set at?

 

[carlosfj80]

I did plug the hose, it did not make a difference. I will verify the desmog again. It was desmogged by the PO. And the OG carb did not have any of these issues. Just cold blooded and never allowed me to do 65mph. The only vacuum hose is T’d from both vacuum advance ports to the base of the carb nearest the valve cover. I did find out the vacuum advance port closest to the dizzy is shot. Probably been like that forever. From what I understand, unobtainium. The solenoid worked on the OG carb but will do click test later this evening or tomorrow.
I’ll have a friend rev is so I can smell the exhaust.

Did you plug that hose you circled in red?

Have you checked and verified the desmog work against the documentation floating around on Mud? Most "desmogs" leave some of the vacuum-operated widgets, have you done the test procedures in the Emissions manual for those? Could be a widget-related vac leak that's only open on decel. How about the fuel cut solenoid? The Emissions manual has a test for that. After a decel, does the exhaust smell super rich?

What distributor are you running? What is your timing set at?

I believe timing is at 7, not sure on the distributor, will check tomorrow and timing again. I think it’s stock…

 

[Pighead]

The only vacuum hose is T’d from both vacuum advance ports to the base of the carb nearest the valve cover. I did find out the vacuum advance port closest to the dizzy is shot. Probably been like that forever. From what I understand, unobtainium

That shot diaphragm is a vacuum leak when you accelerate, and less advance. Plug the line to the shot one.
I got a nice single-diaphragm advance unit from @4Cruisers that fixed my leak and simplified things. Easy install and it works.

 

[carlosfj80]

Thanks! I did have the port at the base of the carb capped at first because the advance was connected to the filter in the intake. And it was doing the same thing. So I hooked the advance up to the carb per @Racer65 hoping to fix it. I will still cap it since it’s not helping anything. I’m not sure I will ever go above 4k elevation so a single diaphragm should be just fine? I wonder how the truck would run with the advance. I’m going to reach out to @4Cruisers for one.

 

[Pighead]

I wonder how the truck would run with the advance.

It's really easy to find out.
Most 2Fs seem to like more advance, see if yours does. If you have one good diaphragm left hook it up to your ported vacuum source. Advance your base timing a bit, then a bit more. Some folks say that 17* BTDC is a good starting point for tuning. A vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum is useful for finding your best settings.

 

[carlosfj80]

Did you plug that hose you circled in red?

Have you checked and verified the desmog work against the documentation floating around on Mud? Most "desmogs" leave some of the vacuum-operated widgets, have you done the test procedures in the Emissions manual for those? Could be a widget-related vac leak that's only open on decel. How about the fuel cut solenoid? The Emissions manual has a test for that. After a decel, does the exhaust smell super rich?

I had the engine running and disconnected the fuel cut off solenoid and the engine died. Sounds like it’s working from my research here on Mud. I also did the 2200-1800rpm test and that worked. I will be checking timing later this evening. Are you guys saying timing should 17 rather than 7. Also capped off the blown timing advance port. No difference. Seems like once I get over 2200rpms there is very little hesitation/stumble.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I had the engine running and disconnected the fuel cut off solenoid and the engine died. Sounds like it’s working from my research here on Mud. I also did the 2200-1800rpm test and that worked. I will be checking timing later this evening. Are you guys saying timing should 17 rather than 7. Also capped off the blown timing advance port. No difference.

I always think the best way to baseline is by the book, including 7* BTDC. When you follow the manuals, these things run right. With you being desmogged that changes things … some issues can be obscured by those changes. As far as timing goes, I’ve run my 2F with a base timing up to about 15 before, just trying it out. Didn’t notice a huge change. I’m also at 5000’ of altitude, so my “by the book” base timing includes the 4* advance from the HAC, for a total of 11.

 

[Pighead]

Are you guys saying timing should 17 rather than 7.

I think you should investigate further and see where your engine runs best. 7* BTDC may be fine for getting it started or passing a smog test but, in my limited experience, most of these engines like more advance. I like to time mine mostly with the manifold vacuum. Advance timing to best vacuum at idle, tweaking carb as you go. If it pings under load, retard it a bit.
Mine is barely drivable at 7* BTDC, maybe yours is. Maybe yours might like 12* or 15*, can't hurt to try. Mine likes 22*

 

[carlosfj80]

Did you plug that hose you circled in red?

Have you checked and verified the desmog work against the documentation floating around on Mud? Most "desmogs" leave some of the vacuum-operated widgets, have you done the test procedures in the Emissions manual for those? Could be a widget-related vac leak that's only open on decel. How about the fuel cut solenoid? The Emissions manual has a test for that. After a decel, does the exhaust smell super rich?

Thanks @CruiserTrash and everyone else! I double checked all my D smog and forgot to cap off these two inlets. Not sure what they are, but once I did that everything’s almost back to “normal.” Now I have to go and retune the carburetor. And check advance, I’m assuming the dizzy is not curved, back to timing. My vacuum at the manifold is 20-22 currently.

 

[carlosfj80]

I think you should investigate further and see where your engine runs best. 7* BTDC may be fine for getting it started or passing a smog test but, in my limited experience, most of these engines like more advance. I like to time mine mostly with the manifold vacuum. Advance timing to best vacuum at idle, tweaking carb as you go. If it pings under load, retard it a bit.
Mine is barely drivable at 7* BTDC, maybe yours is. Maybe yours might like 12* or 15*, can't hurt to try. Mine likes 22*

Thanks @Pighead! I’ll give it a shot.

 

[Camotubebender]

I may have missed it but did you check your fuel filter and fuel pump? with that low float level and some of the symptoms its sounds like you may have a fuel supply problem

 

[carlosfj80]

I may have missed it but did you check your fuel filter and fuel pump? with that low float level and some of the symptoms its sounds like you may have a fuel supply problem

I did put a brand new fuel filter on it with the install. I did not check the fuel pump but it seems to be working well. It ended up being the vacuum nipples on the drivers side fender.

 

[Camotubebender]

I don’t think so

 

[carlosfj80]

I don’t think so

You’re thinking my fuel pump is going bad?