Cigarette lighter outlet stays live in a 1997?

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The 'hot' wires under the console could also be for the foreign market coolers that where in there, I'm guessing.

I've also been told that there's a hot wire under the drivers butt for power seats regardless if you have power seats or not.
 
Montana Cruiser said:
So lets see, there is only 4 screws, all I will need is a butter-knife and a pry bar, TJK I'll be right down there ;)


Mmmmm.... butter....

TJK
 
Kaderabek said:
Does this mean it is or isn't under the console of a Land Cruiser (non-LX)?

TJK

I'm not sure about the LC. On the LX wiring diagram, it shows that there is a dedicated 15A constant 12V source for the cell phone under console. There is also a switch 12V source, but it shares a fuse with the ECU.

John
 
Kaderabek said:
Do you consider this high amperage?

"Average DC Power Consumption: 0.7 to 2.7 amp hr"

TJK

There is a fusible link on the cig lighter that blows out after continuous high amperage. I power a tire inflator that draws well over 5 amps, and I know not to plug into the cig lighter.

I have an aux fusebox under the passenger seat that powers 4 constant 12V outlets: one under the glove box, two at the center console, and one at the rear cargo area.

John
 
Montana Cruiser said:
I'm curious, if I can in fact find a lead thats always on under the console, and I wire in a 12V socket so I can use a cheapy fridge in the center row, how long can you leave the fridge running without completely draining the battery (I have a stock battery set-up at this point)??

One of the 12V outlet at my console powers a small thermoelectric cooler. It draws about 3 amp of continuous current (no temperature on-off cycles like a real fridge). I've had it for over 6 hours without the PriorityPlus! kicking in with my Optima Orange Top battery, which means I have more than 40% charge left on the battery.


John
 
Montana Cruiser said:
... so I can use a cheapy fridge in the center row, how long can you leave the fridge running without completely draining the battery

To answer this question, you must tell us how much current the "Cheapy fridge" draws. The Engle/Norcold/ARB that Todd is talking about will draw MUCH less current than a cheap cooler. You may only get 4 hours depending on the size and condition of your battery and the draw of the cooler.

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
To answer this question, you must tell us how much current the "Cheapy fridge" draws. The Engle/Norcold/ARB that Todd is talking about will draw MUCH less current than a cheap cooler. You may only get 4 hours depending on the size and condition of your battery and the draw of the cooler.

-B-


-B-

I know little to nothing about electrical, so here's my dumb question, how do I figure out how much my cooler would draw? Its a little one I picked up at Target on clearance as I dont have the need/nor can I afford an Engle and the like, so if there are better cheap options out there, I'm all ears, I can still take this one back, just picked it up. I was thinking I could just plug it into the cigarette lighter and be set, but after reading this thread, it looks like I will have some light electrical to do before then, which is cool because I would like to add outlets to the back anyhow.

:cheers:
 
Kaderabek said:
Thanks. I'll look in my FSM tonight but in general how difficult is it to remove the console?

TJK

Actually, if you'll put me on the phone with your truck, I can make that center console remove itself on command....its trained like that. Unscrew the hi-lo shift knob. Remove 4 screws, 2 on each side of the shift console. The one by the front edge of the driver' seat is a PITA. Turn key on and put it in D. Lift up on front console and unclip the harness that feeds the "Power" and "2nd Start" switch. Rotate front console clockwise, squeezing the shift button on the shifter at the same time so it will slide up over the knob. The back half is the same way, exterior screws and lift up. I COULD NOT find a hot wire in any of those open sockets on my new '97.
 
Montana Cruiser said:
-B-

I know little to nothing about electrical, so here's my dumb question, how do I figure out how much my cooler would draw? Its a little one I picked up at Target on clearance as I dont have the need/nor can I afford an Engle and the like, so if there are better cheap options out there, I'm all ears, I can still take this one back, just picked it up. I was thinking I could just plug it into the cigarette lighter and be set, but after reading this thread, it looks like I will have some light electrical to do before then, which is cool because I would like to add outlets to the back anyhow.

:cheers:

If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, I've read that they are kinda worthless. They draw a lot more power than an ARB/Engel, and what's more don't pack nearly the same cooling power.

I think they are only supposed to cool 40°F below ambient temperature, so if it's 100° outside, it can only go down to 60° inside the cooler.
 
Montana Cruiser said:
-B-

... how do I figure out how much my cooler would draw?

First, read whatever documentation came with the cooler. It may give you the current rating. Look at the cooler and see if you can find something printed on the motor/compressor that gives you the rating. Find out the brand or the maker and hit their web site or do a Google search.

Next, find out what the rating is on your battery. This should be much easier to research on the manufacturer web site.

I strongly recommend that you wire another 12v recepticle for the cooler. The cig lighter has a fusible link (in addition to the fuse panel fuse) that will blow with long term or high amp useage. When it blows, you have to get out the soldering iron to fix the problem and that would make you unhappy on a long trip or vacation.

-B-
 
elmariachi said:
I COULD NOT find a hot wire in any of those open sockets on my new '97.

I think I'll start with attempting to tap into the harness under the driver's seat. Seems like the easiest to access and should be fine amperage wise.

In the meantime I've been to Wal-Mart and now have the outlet. Wal-Mart, what a nightmare.

TJK
 
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Kaderabek said:
In the meantime I've been to Wal-Mart and now have the outlet. Wal-Mart, what a fxxxing nightmare.
TJK

My motto:
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Beowulf said:
First, read whatever documentation came with the cooler. It may give you the current rating. Look at the cooler and see if you can find something printed on the motor/compressor that gives you the rating. Find out the brand or the maker and hit their web site or do a Google search.

Next, find out what the rating is on your battery. This should be much easier to research on the manufacturer web site.

I strongly recommend that you wire another 12v recepticle for the cooler. The cig lighter has a fusible link (in addition to the fuse panel fuse) that will blow with long term or high amp useage. When it blows, you have to get out the soldering iron to fix the problem and that would make you unhappy on a long trip or vacation.

-B-

Thanks -B-! I'll have to check out the unit when I get home. The battery I have is the Toyota Tru-Start, brand new one the PO installed before I bought it. I dont plan on using this cooler, or anything else really until I get some proper wiring installed. I need to read up on inverters as well, that might be something to hard wire in while I am at it. I hate auto wiring so I only want to mess with this once!
 
I always knew you were a flying butt monkey. :D

In my defense, it's been so long since I've been to Wal-Mart that they closed it, moved and built a super center. Who knew? :rolleyes:

TJK
 
If you want to do this the really stupid/easy way, there is a 12V outlet available that plugs into your trailer wiring.

TJK

(Yeah, it was only $2 so I bought it too. :rolleyes: )
 
shocker said:
If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, I've read that they are kinda worthless. They draw a lot more power than an ARB/Engel, and what's more don't pack nearly the same cooling power.

I think they are only supposed to cool 40°F below ambient temperature, so if it's 100° outside, it can only go down to 60° inside the cooler.

Yeah, I was afraid of that, guess its why they were on clearance, I'll run it a little and see how it fairs. Wish there was something in between $75 for these and $700+ for the ARB Engle etc. Good point too, what the hell good is 60 degree beer when its 100 out :mad:

One last thing, where the heck is the "degree" symbol/key on a standard keyboard? :D
 
Kaderabek said:
If you want to do this the really stupid/easy way, there is a 12V outlet available that plugs into your trailer wiring.
(Yeah, it was only $2 so I bought it too. :rolleyes: )

I was wondering why you hadn't tapped into the 12V in the right rear body cavity where the hitch modulator lives.
 
That may be where I put the whole thing.

I use the trailer lights though.

TJK
 
Kaderabek said:
That may be where I put the whole thing.

I use the trailer lights though.

TJK

I think its on the right behind the trim panel, but the little black Toyota box that modulates the trailer wiring is in there and it is 12V+ hot and should have more than enough amps for the cooler and a trailer.
 
Well, in that I was planning to locate the outlet there anyway....

TJK
 
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