Cigarette lighter outlet stays live in a 1997?

[Kaderabek]

Bearing in mind that I'm an idiot (although I did figure out how to remove the console).

Constant, not there, got that part.

Switched. What the heck does that mean and if I tap into it do I have power all the time to my outlet? I'm guessing not in that I wanted to use the term "constant power."

And, I'll go ahead and ask this now rather than in two minutes. How does someone who doesn't own an ampmeter tell which is the wire to tap into under there? Fly you in to assist?

TJK

 

[woody]

I'll check into what's avalble from Appleton to Asheville...they are both A's, so it should be cheaper than flying from Appleton to Vegas.....hehehe

switched = on when the key is in the run position or ACC position....really, there are 3 options for power....

constant hot = effectively, direct from the battery
accessory hot = ign key-switched to the ACC position....radio fits this one
run hot = ign key-switched to the run position...radio is hot here too, but the heater fan is also hot, etc.

Really, a CB outta be on an accessory hot switch...

An ammeter is $9-10....perhaps it's time you went back to Walmart Oh, and a test light is $5-7....clip 1 to ground, use the probe to check for powah....can usually probe into the connection clips without piercing the wire jacket itself...

(hehehe...I said probe....hehehe)

 

[Kaderabek]

I own one. I also, A) can't find it; B) never knew how to use it anyway.

The only part that I'm still confused about (for now) is that if I'm searching for constant power why do I take the console off if all there is under there is switched power? It sounds to me like I need to just run a wire up to the battery (did someone suggest this...? ). Or tap into the seat which has constant power.

Honestly, I'm not trying to be a pain here....

TJK

 

[woody]

for my constant power, I used a fuse tap direct off the fuse block. I don't believe the wire gauge for the seats was large enuf to carry much current, and opted to run direct. I also ran a 15a fuse inline.

Mine would have taken me less time if I hadn't bothered cleaning all the stuff I removed, and vaccing under there as well.

You may need to remove the console regardless so you can run your wiring easier.

I've now forgotten what you were hooking up....should her accessories run off a couple D-cells tho?!? Or is this the air you need for inflation?

 

[woody]

Todd,
I don't have my electronic version of the EWD here at work but there has to be a +12v back at the trailer harness since the brake lights work with the ignition off. Typical Toyota wiring switches the ground to complete the circuit.

-B-

brake lights are hot-switched, not ground switched. The hot wire comes into the brake pedal, and the switch there complete the hot circuit to the brake lights. Additionally, a ground-switch circuit would be impossible for trailer use since the trailer grounds thru the hitch ball....

I tapped into the brake-switched wire at the pedal to install my brake controller.

 

[Kaderabek]

for my constant power, I used a fuse tap direct off the fuse block. I don't believe the wire gauge for the seats was large enuf to carry much current, and opted to run direct. I also ran a 15a fuse inline.

Mine would have taken me less time if I hadn't bothered cleaning all the stuff I removed, and vaccing under there as well.

You may need to remove the console regardless so you can run your wiring easier.

I've now forgotten what you were hooking up....should her accessories run off a couple D-cells tho?!? Or is this the air you need for inflation?

I'm installing a breast pump. ;p

ARB refrigerator.

By fuse block do you mean the fuses behind the panel next to my left knee?

Thanks,

TJK

 

[woody]

that's them...there are some nifty spade-taps that slip over the fuse itself and allow you to use a female spade to connect another wire....

 

[Kaderabek]

Like this?

TJK

(Which fuse do you recomend I tap into? A 15 amp?)

 

[woody]

that'll work....I chose a 15a, believe it's the 3rd or 4th down on the left side....don't recall exactlee...the "left" side of the spade is "hot", the right side is the "fused" side (facing the block)

that's actually pretty kewl....a double fuse...where'd ya find that?? Better really than the tap-only option I had handy

with that design, the double-part would be on the left side...gotta find me one of those...

Does ARB specify a fuse rating for their unit? Don't exceed that, IMO....

 

[Kaderabek]

They recommend that you plug the thing into the cigarette lighter so I'll check to see the fuse rating for that I guess.

I don't own that fuse tap yet. Plan to look at lunch but needed to Google things a bit so I could at least appear to know what I'm blathering about.



OK, this has been extremely helpful and with any luck I'll soon be asking about how to deal with a fried electrical system.

TJK

 

[Sangamo]

Is that fire extinguiser charged up?

 

[Kaderabek]

TLCA event and driveway fire ready.

TJK

 

[NorCalDoug]

...Does ARB specify a fuse rating for their unit? Don't exceed that, IMO....

The ARB fridge has a 10A fuse installed on the unit, near the plug connections. I have mine plugged into a 12V with a 10A fuse.

 

[Kaderabek]

I am now in possession of an inline fuse and know where to come through the firewall. Why didn't anyone say go directy to the battery...?

TJK

 

[NorCalDoug]

From a previous post
Hope it helps...

 

[Kaderabek]

You never said that! Nanny nanny boo boo!

TJK

 

[NorCalDoug]

You never said that! Nanny nanny boo boo!

TJK

I posted that thread because it has more info about what I did...no other reason

 

[Kaderabek]

I was just kidding. With any luck this thread can die soon! Of course the forecast is for snow here this weekend so it could drag on for weeks.

TJK

 

[elmariachi]

I was just kidding. With any luck this thread can die soon! Of course the forecast is for snow here this weekend so it could drag on for weeks.
TJK

At the rate you are going, you're gonna need a good snow to chill your beer.

 

[Kaderabek]

I can't argue with that.

TJK

(Electricity sloth)